The Manual Wind: Rolex Milgauss GV Blue Dial

By Ian Schwam August 20, 2014

manual wind rolex milgauss gv blue dial

Very few brands have their consumers on edge when it comes time to introduce new additions to their line. The buzz that is created around a new design from legendary Rolex can only be compared to companies like Apple and Ferrari. Pulling from the history books in 2007, Rolex introduced the updated Milgauss of the 1950’s. In 2014, the Z Blue design was added to the line and plenty of buzz ensued.

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This 40mm automatic timepiece, known for its lightning bolt second hand, is another versatile timepiece from Rolex. A modest case size fit with an oyster bracelet creates a watch ready for the boardroom and the weekend. Dial design is where the sporty aspect of this piece comes in, and that is what has been freshened up in 2014.

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Taking all the best attributes of the GV Milgauss from 2007, the ZGV takes this piece up a notch. The GV is known for its green tinted crystal and orange accents against a black dial. The update is solely in the dial. Now fit with a metallic blue dial under the green tinted crystal, the Milgauss takes on a new image. The blue dial adds a more playful aspect to a straight forward classic. The contrast of metallic blue dial, orange accents, and the green tinted crystal make for a slightly sportier timepiece with somewhat of a retro look.

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New dial design combined with all the comforts Rolex offers in their pieces make for another buzz worthy timepiece. It is not easy to please everyone; and it doesn’t take much for a Rolex to have its consumers frenzied. With updates like we see here in the ZGV MIlgauss, Rolex is still able to keep things interesting while keeping its enthusiasts enthused.

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The Manual Wind: Rolex Yachtmaster Everose Gold

the manual wind rolex yachtmaster everose gold

To the disappointment of many, this years Basel Fair 2015 seemed lackluster. Brands made their annual releases and upgrades, but very few pieces created any real buzz. Rolex, always greatly anticipated, had their fans feeling let down. The previous year, there were multiple releases that turned Rolex enthusiasts on their heads. There was the Pepsi GMT Master in white gold, the Milgauss blue dial, and the Deep Sea Sea Dweller James Cameron piece. This year, just one piece really gave Rolex fans something to pause on, The Yachtmaster Everose Gold.

The Yachtmaster has been around for plenty of years with not much change. The most recent update came when a blue dial was added to their steel with platinum bezel piece. This years update is way more drastic. For the first time, Rolex is offering a stock rubber strap on a piece. This black rubber strap attached to the classic 40mm now rose gold case is a big change for Rolex; a brand mainly known for metal bracelets. To accompany this black rubber strap, the sporty bezel bearing raised numerals has now been produced in matte ceramic. Paired with a black dial and rose hands and markers, this piece does not lack style points.

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The Manual Wind: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Sapphire

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Sapphire

It is often forgotten that watchmaking is not just about practical engineering, but also about ornately showing off. High end watch brands love this aspect of the business. Creating six and seven figure timepieces handcrafted and jeweled for the very few adds to the fun of the watch world. Zenith is a modest brand known for its movement manufacturing; primarily the El Primero Chronograph movement. Out of this LVMH owned manufacturer comes a piece that is ornate and outrageous in both size and detail.

At 60mm in diameter, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette is not your average Pilot. The case is made of sapphire crystal displaying the movement not only through the skeletonize dial and exhibition back, but through the sides of the case as well. Where there is metal there is hand-crafted design. The lugs, hand chased, are made of white gold attaching the black crocodile strap to this behemoth piece of horological jewelry. The crown is of white gold as well. Taking this piece beyond sapphire and gold is the white blue enamel bezel. This hand-crafted bezel makes for good contrast with the applied blue arabic numerals on the dial and the blued white gold hands.

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The Manual Wind: NOMOS Glashutte Lambda 39mm

the manual wind nomos glashutte lambda 39mm

Some of the toughest critics are watch enthusiasts. From price point to fit and finish, you might say there is never pleasing a watch collector. With that said, It takes hard work and unique design to be a successful up-and-comer in the watch world. One brand that is slowly winning over these hard critics is NOMOS Glashutte. Clean design and in house movements got this boutique German ball rolling and its certainly gaining speed. Its latest, the 39mm NOMOS Lambda, is another clean look that is hard to hate.

A little smaller than the original, this 39mm version takes the clean Lambda look and brings it in 3mm from its original 42mm diameter. Inside lies the same in-house manual wind movement as its big brother. Made in three variations, all rose gold, there is great contrast along with the simplicity of the dial design. The three variations include a while dial with gold hands for a more classic look, white dial with blue-steel hands for a more modern look, and a “black velvet” dial with gold hands which i find the most striking. The layout of the dial is what truly sets this watch apart. With the focus on the power reserve, this makes for great symmetry with a different aesthetic then normally seen in such a piece. Unlike the dramatic figure “8” design of Jacquet Droz, this upside down “8” is more subtle yet still maintains the same amount of classic design.