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The Manual Wind: De Bethune DB28 MaxiChrono

manual wind de bethune db28 maxichrono db28c
Luxury watch brands are often defined by their annual production, use of materials, and obscurity.  One brand that embodies the definition of luxury watch is De Bethune.  This small Swiss brand started in 2002 by a passionate watch collector, David Zanetta, and a fourth generation watchmaker, David Flageollet, has redefined the modern luxury watch.  Combining horological innovation with futuristic design, De Bethune offers a timepiece like no other in the marketplace.  This holds true as well of their recent release, the DB28 MaxiChrono.

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A synergy of classic Chronograph and modern case design, De Bethune places their multi-layer MaxiChronograph dial into the 45mm flying lug case of the DB28.  Constructed from rose gold and polished blackened zirconium, the case and dial contrast is striking.  Bringing it all together are the hands of blackened steel, blued steel, and rose gold for maximum legibility of the complication.  Lying within, De Bethune’s in house caliber DB2030 Chronograph movement which is a 5-day manual wind power reserve.  Completing this contemporary masterpiece is a single rose gold crown at the 12 o’clock for unique functionality as well as symmetry.  All that is necessary is a simple black crocodile strap to hold this work of art to the wrist.

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Defined by innovation and detail, De Bethune is a brand that pushes the limits of horology and design.  Research and development is in their DNA.  This is apparent when not only viewing one of their pieces, but also delving into the design and production of their movements.

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This one might need to be mortgaged though.  With a production run of only 20 pieces for 2014, the DB28 MaxiChrono comes with a price tag of roughly $185,000 (CHF 166,000).

Take a look at the DB28 MaxiChrono in all Titainum as well as the other masterpieces by De Bethune.

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The Manual Wind: Longines Heritage 1918
the manual wind longines heritage 1918 long1918c

Baselworld 2016 is here, and yes, there are even more watches now.  New color combinations, designs, metals, and complications from the low to high end.  The show stealers, Rolex and Patek Phillipe, did so once again with new editions of their classics.  The new Rolex Daytona and Patek Phillipe Worldtime have already spurred wait lists at their respective authorized dealers.  Although it gets harder and harder to shock and captivate me, Longines was the brand that did it this year.  They stopped me in my tracks with this instant classic, the Longines Heritage 1918.

This Longines time machine measures a respectable 41mm in diameter.  Thanks to the well designed lugs and big crown, this stainless steel case with great ornamental detail looks straight from the early 1900s.  Under a sapphire crystal lies a white lacquered dial with just as much flare.  Honey arabic numerals resemble a deep patina of vintage timepiece.  Not often contrasted with white, this combination is dramatic.  Blue steel hands and a soft cursive “Longines” finish off this extremely clean throwback.  Below the dial is a Longines calibre automatic movement with a 42 hour power reserve.  Matched well with a honey brown crocodile strap, you can see why this piece, of all of Baselworld, caught my attention.

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the manual wind bulgari octo ultranero finissimo tourbillon 16bulgultra2

Its disappointing to see amazing design not make it to the main stream.  The Bulgari Octo is just not there yet.  The Gerald Genta design, previously under the Gerald Genta name, now bears a big name on its dial and yet has still not made it.  Bulgari purchased this line years ago and the only thing they have done right with it is not change the classic Octo design.  I have been saying for years that this design is the next big thing.  Classic, modern, angular, and unique; the Octo has a chance to be an icon.  Although Bulgari has not had a breakout design in with this line, they are certainly trying.  Good movements and simple combinations make for nice pieces.  Its latest is another piece i would like on my wrist; The Bulgari Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon.

This ultra-thin Tourbillon holds within its black DLC titanium case a world record thin movement.  At just 1.95mm thick, this Tourbllion with a 52 hour power reserve, is the thinnest non bridge Tourbillon.  The movement is as elegant as the design; black DLC coating with rose accents.  Another piece in the Octo line that is classic yet modern.  Attached with an integrated crocodile strap and folding buckle, this sleek look is complete.

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The Manual Wind: Bespoke Timepieces by Vacher Private Label
the manual wind bespoke timepieces by vaucher private label

Vertical integration is a goal in any industry.  Branding is a key to success, but in an industry built on detail oriented enthusiasts, recognition may prove easier.

Vaucher is a movement house.  The Sandoz family acquired all the pieces to the puzzle completing the formation of this manufacturing powerhouse in 2003. Designing and manufacturing movements and parts for brands throughout the industry, they have certain recognition.  Located in Fleurier, Switzerland, Vaucher shares a home and all of its prowess with Parmigiani, its branding partner.  It seems the time has come for more than just watch nerds to know the Vaucher name.  It will now sit upon the dial of the new Vaucher brand and collection; Vaucher Private Label.

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