The Manual Wind: Bell & Ross BR123 GMT

By Ian Schwam June 11, 2014

manual wind bell ross br123 gmt and

With the demand for vintage watches climbing a steep incline, brands are shamelessly emulating the classics. Not only are manufacturers digging up their own past, but other brands are stepping in and seeing whose past they can exploit as well. One example of this is the just released Bell & Ross BR123 GMT 24h. Though very classic in design, where do you get the nerve?

BRV123_GMT

The BR123 GMT sticks to the classic Bell & Ross vintage with its dial, case, and crystal but adds one major element; the distinct GMT hand. This hand, made famous by Rolex, cannot be overlooked. Large and orange, it made the Rolex Explorer 2 the collector piece it is today, and continues to hold consumer attention in the current model Explorer 2’s.

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Nevertheless, Bell & Ross has constructed another affordable timepiece that I still cannot hate on. 42mm in diameter, this high polished case with a brushed bezel bearing the 24H markings is well sized for casual dress and sport alike. A matte black arabic dial lies above the ETA 2893 automatic movement, which can be viewed through a sapphire exhibition case back. Offered with both a steel bracelet and rubber strap for true versatility, this piece comes in just under $4,000.

I do not know if honor and originality crossed the minds of designers at Bell & Ross when constructing this one, but I thank them for offering us that famous GMT hand at a price we can stomach.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Sapphire

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Sapphire

It is often forgotten that watchmaking is not just about practical engineering, but also about ornately showing off. High end watch brands love this aspect of the business. Creating six and seven figure timepieces handcrafted and jeweled for the very few adds to the fun of the watch world. Zenith is a modest brand known for its movement manufacturing; primarily the El Primero Chronograph movement. Out of this LVMH owned manufacturer comes a piece that is ornate and outrageous in both size and detail.

At 60mm in diameter, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette is not your average Pilot. The case is made of sapphire crystal displaying the movement not only through the skeletonize dial and exhibition back, but through the sides of the case as well. Where there is metal there is hand-crafted design. The lugs, hand chased, are made of white gold attaching the black crocodile strap to this behemoth piece of horological jewelry. The crown is of white gold as well. Taking this piece beyond sapphire and gold is the white blue enamel bezel. This hand-crafted bezel makes for good contrast with the applied blue arabic numerals on the dial and the blued white gold hands.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Omega Globemaster Master Chronometer

the manual wind omega globemaster master chronometer

Excellence is often awarded with a keepsake. The timepiece has been a symbol of achievement through history and today is no different. Omega has taken on the challenge of creating a movement that passes new timekeeping parameters classifying a movement as a Master Chronometer. Of course having accomplished this challenge passing these new tests outlined by The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, Omega has come out with a classic new watch design. The Omega Globemaster is the symbol of this achievement.
The Globemaster joins the Constellation family of pieces by Omega. At a classic 39mm in diameter, this piece is meant to be the timeless introduction to an exceptional movement. A tightly fluted bezel reminiscent of the Rolex Datejust surrounds a dial known classically to Omega historians, the Pie Pan. With angles and depth, this dial which was commonly used in the 1970s, adds a historic element to this timepiece. Under the dial lies the Omega Master Chronometer caliber 8900 movement. With a silicon balance spring, this automatic movement has bi-directional winding and is anti-magnetic. The anti-magnetic aspect of this movement steps it up to the next level certifying it as a Master Chronometer.
Made in stainless steel, rose gold, steel and gold, and platinum, this is truly a commemorative timepiece at every price point. Metal bracelets and crocodile straps to compliment each dial and metal are offered to complete the classic style. Starting at just under $7,000 for the steel version on a strap, this symbol of accomplishment is certainly attainable. Might even be worth trading in your Rolex Datejust to obtain.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Bell & Ross BR03-96 Big Date

Bell ross

Like building blocks, there can only be so many shapes of a watch case. Round, square, tonneau, rarely rectangular, and thankfully nothing triangular. The square timepiece, if proportioned correctly, can be very attractive on the wrist. Bringing the square to the forefront many years ago, Bell & Ross exploded on the scene with their BR01 model. The oversized 46mm case was perfect for the then ‘bigger is better’ watch mentality. Since then, that mentality has deflated some making way for the more practical and wearable BR03. Always hiding behind its larger counterpart, this 42mm square gets its turn. Bell & Ross has released a new complication in this case with some great looking dials; the Bell & Ross BR03-96 Big Date.

The 42mm case with automatic movement always had a date function in the other complications, but as the name says, its now larger. With a slightly exposed date wheel displaying this larger date at the 3’oclock, this piece takes on new dial proportions. The new dials offered are different from previous dials. Two variations include a steel and black dial in the base piece and the same dial but with gold accents in the Golden Heritage edition. The Golden Heritage is fit with a camel colored calf strap to bring out the gold accents, while a black strap fits the contrast well of the other.