Skip to main content

The Manual Wind: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Sapphire

It is often forgotten that watchmaking is not just about practical engineering, but also about ornately showing off.  High end watch brands love this aspect of the business.  Creating six and seven figure timepieces handcrafted and jeweled for the very few adds to the fun of the watch world.  Zenith is a modest brand known for its movement manufacturing; primarily the El Primero Chronograph movement.  Out of this LVMH owned manufacturer comes a piece that is ornate and outrageous in both size and detail.

zen20sq2
Image used with permission by copyright holder

At 60mm in diameter, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette is not your average Pilot.  The case is made of sapphire crystal displaying the movement not only through the skeletonize dial and exhibition back, but through the sides of the case as well.  Where there is metal there is hand-crafted design.  The lugs, hand chased, are made of white gold attaching the black crocodile strap to this behemoth piece of horological jewelry.  The crown is of white gold as well.  Taking this piece beyond sapphire and gold is the white blue enamel bezel.  This hand-crafted bezel makes for good contrast with the applied blue arabic numerals on the dial and the blued white gold hands.

zen20sq3
Image used with permission by copyright holder

From head on, this piece might appear to be your average oversized skeleton piece with ornate detail.  Once turned around, the sapphire case is what makes this piece even more special creating a full display of the Zenith Caliber 5011k movement.  Based off a pocket watch movement, this 48 hout power reserve manual wind is the perfect fit for this massive watch.  Shockingly water resistant to 30 meters, you can even take an unplanned dip.

Recommended Videos

Only 5 pieces of this extremely unique timepiece will be produced.  Like a concept car to an automobile brand, this piece will hopefully foreshadow some of what is to come for later production Zeniths.  In five years hopefully a sapphire crystal case will be in all of our collections.

Ian Schwam
Former Digital Trends Contributor
Contributing writer and watch enthusiast Ian Schwam dons an expert knowledge of all things watches. Having spent a decade in…
The art of timeless design: Why Urban Jürgensen is one to watch
How Urban Jürgensen redefined haute horlogerie with its remarkable comeback
Urban Jurgensen has returned to the forefront of horology

The revival of historic watchmaker brand Urban Jürgensen has been a marvel to witness as it once teetered on the brink of obscurity. Today, UJ has re-emerged as a benchmark in the industry, working under the direction of a visionary new leader. Founded in 1773, the brand faced the possibility of extinction in the late 20th century before being revitalized by a group of watchmaking purists. Currently, Urban Jürgensen is getting rave reviews for blending centuries of craftsmanship with modern innovation — proving that true luxury is timeless.

Tradition meets state-of-the-art innovation

Read more
Norqain makes Independence Skeleton smaller and smarter
Swiss watchmaker Norqain refines skeleton collection with transparent mainplate design
Norqain new slimmed skeleton promo

Norqain has added two new 40mm models to its Independence Skeleton collection, offering slimmer, more refined options than the earlier 42mm watches. The updated timepieces feature a transparent mainplate design that enhances visual depth while showcasing the brand's commitment to innovative skeleton watchmaking.
The first model features a classic stainless steel case with brushed, polished, and sandblasted surfaces, accented by subtle turquoise details. The second adopts a bolder aesthetic with a black DLC-coated case, khaki rubber strap, and vibrant orange accents, creating a stealthier and sportier appearance.
Both versions are powered by the Norqain Caliber NB08S, a mechanical automatic skeleton movement that has earned COSC chronometer certification. This high-performance movement features 26 rubies and a personalized oscillating weight bearing the brand's logo. It offers a 41-hour power reserve, with the balance frequency operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), ensuring precise timekeeping.
The standout feature of these new models is the transparent mainplate positioned above the anthracite openworked dial. This innovative design element adds visual depth while housing Norqain's logo, marking a significant improvement from the previous 42mm versions where the logo was printed on the sapphire crystal.
The dials incorporate faceted black-plated indexes and diamond-cut hands filled with white X1 Super-LumiNova for optimal visibility in low-light conditions. The second hand's tip comes in turquoise on the steel version and orange on the DLC model, providing distinctive color coordination.
Measuring 40mm in diameter and 12.05mm thick, both models offer 100-meter water resistance and feature double anti-reflective, scratch-proof sapphire crystals on the front and back. The reduced case size makes these watches more wearable while maintaining the collection's bold skeleton aesthetic.
The steel version is priced at $4,490 on a rubber strap, with the matching steel bracelet option increasing the price to $4,790. The DLC-coated model comes with a choice of black or khaki rubber strap, both priced at $4,690.
These new Independence Skeleton models represent Norqain's evolution in skeleton watch design, combining traditional Swiss watchmaking excellence with contemporary aesthetics. The transparent mainplate innovation demonstrates the brand's commitment to advancing skeleton watch construction while preserving the visual drama that defines the collection.

Read more
Rolex Land-Dweller auction reaches $51,250 on eBay
New Rolex sports watch commands premium pricing in secondary market debut
Rolex Dynapulse promo image

The first publicly available Rolex Land-Dweller has sold for $51,250 on eBay Live, more than three times its $15,350 retail price and confirming the watch's status as a serious competitor to integrated luxury sports watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
The unworn 40mm stainless steel model, complete with box and papers, was listed by Tanner and Company with a starting bid of $15,000, just below the suggested retail price. However, intense bidding drove the final sale price to $51,250, just $2,000 shy of the combined retail prices of a Land-Dweller and Royal Oak "Jumbo."
Introduced earlier this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva, the Land-Dweller represents Rolex's most significant watch release in a generation. The timepiece features an integrated bracelet design inspired by 1970s sports watches and incorporates a revolutionary new escapement called Dynapulse, positioning it as a direct competitor to established luxury sports icons.
At retail, the Land-Dweller appears attractively priced compared to its competitors. The popular "Jumbo" Royal Oak in steel retails for $37,900, while the Patek Philippe Nautilus no longer exists as a three-handed men's model in stainless steel. The alternative 45mm Cubitus commands $43,263 at retail.
However, the secondary market tells a different story. The post-pandemic watch market has calmed from its highs but remains intensely competitive for hyped luxury sports watches. Both the Royal Oak and Cubitus command well into six-figure prices on used and gray markets, reflecting sustained demand that far exceeds supply.
The Land-Dweller's astronomical first sale price places it firmly in this rarefied territory, suggesting that Rolex's most hyped new model in years will follow similar secondary market trajectories to its Swiss competitors.
Two scenarios emerge for future Land-Dweller pricing. Either this first sale represents an inflated outlier that will normalize as more examples reach the market, or the extreme sale price will further inflate collector desire, driving values even higher for subsequent sales.
Given Rolex's history with secondary market pricing and the general trajectory of integrated luxury sports watches, the latter scenario appears more likely. The Land-Dweller's combination of revolutionary movement technology, integrated bracelet design, and Rolex's unparalleled brand recognition creates perfect conditions for sustained secondary market premiums.
The $51,250 sale price demonstrates that despite the Land-Dweller's relatively accessible retail pricing, actual market access remains limited to those willing to pay significant premiums. This reality reinforces the watch's position as a true competitor to the Royal Oak and Nautilus, not just in design and technical execution, but in market desirability and pricing power.

Read more