The Manual Wind: The Vacheron Quai de L’ile Makes a Comeback in Steel

By Ian Schwam May 4, 2016

the manual wind vacheron quai de lile makes a comeback in steel l le4500s 000a b195

Not all designs are a huge success; even when coming from a prestigious watch house. Often times brands get away from their core DNA and create a polarizing design. Love/hate watches are great for conversation, but not for sales. The Vacheron Constantin Quai de L’ile is a perfect example of this. Its first debut over five years ago did not prove wildly successful with its great modern case design matched with complication, interesting metal variations, and huge price tags. Vacheron has decided to take another stab at the piece getting back to the basics.

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Simple metal and simple dial make up the new Quai de L’ile. This 41mm modern case design is now cast in stainless steel. Very few Vacheron are made in steel. The dials chosen for this new release keeps it simple as well. Time and date complication are enough for this retro dial design. Arabic numerals give the piece a vintage tone while an inner date ring lends a modern feel. Below the dial lies an in house Vacheron automatic movement. Matched with alligator and rubber straps, this piece has a lot to offer.

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Having worn a Vacheron Constantin Quai de L’ile in titanium for some time, i am one of the few lovers of this model. The case is well sized and modern, reminiscent of a less profound Bulgari Octa design. High quality movement matched with design and versatility made me an instant fan. The price tag leave something to be desired. The price of this new steel piece is yet to be announced. Hopefully it will create more lovers than haters.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: A Vacheron Constantin World Time Meant for a World Traveler

the manual wind a vacheron constantin world time meant for traveler overseas 7700v 5 ablogtowatch

It is often that the guest of honor arrives late to the party. This year at the SIHH watch show, Vacheron Constantin introduced their updated Overseas line of timepieces. These newly designed Overseas, with a sleeker look and new movements, debuted in a chronograph and time/date model. What could be more fitting than for a watch named the Overseas to debut in its latest complication, the world-time. This classic complication is produced by many watch houses but it is rare to see it in this versatile setting.

Slightly larger than the other new overseas, the world-time measures 43.5mm in diameter. A case and bracelet of stainless steel, this Vacheron is truly a high end sport watch. A single screw down crown operates the time as well as the world-time function. Water resistant to 150m, this is the first world time I have seen that can be labeled the true travelers world time. On the dial are the names of 37 cities laid out in a surprisingly legible fashion avoiding the potential clutter this complication can bring. Blue, silver, and brown dials offer different contrast giving each piece a different personality. To accompany the quick release system for easy strap change, each piece comes with both rubber and crocodile straps.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind 2015 Watch of the Year: MB & F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar

the manual wind 2015 watch of year mb f legacy machine perpetual calendar

For the 2015 Manual Wind watch of the year, I have chosen one that although not easily attainable, is extremely notable. Its not easy for boutique brands to break through to collectors. A lot come out with interesting design, but flop. It takes the right backing and the right watchmakers to create a successful boutique brand. MB&F, Maximilian Büsser & Friends, has been able to break from the pack. Their designs are as aesthetically pleasing as they are horologically pleasing. Far out designs make for interesting time displays. Their more traditional designs have amazing depth and detail. The combination of unique design, depth and detail has put MB&F on the radar of all modern collectors. Blowing the minds of all horological enthusiasts this past year is the timepiece I have chosen for the Manual Wind watch oft the year; the MB&F Legacy Machine Perprtual.

44mm in diameter, this is simply a display case for the amazing movement inside. Designed from scratch by Stephen McDonnel, this classic perpetual movement is brought alive under the domed crystal of the Legacy Machine. The movement displays hours, minutes, day, retrograde date, month, retrograde leap year and the level of the 72 hour power reserve. Elevated above it all is a 14mm balance wheel. Characteristic of the other Legacy Machines, this feature sets this piece apart from all other watches ever produced. The depth this creates within the watchcase is what helps make this piece so impressive. Cast in rose gold or platinum, this piece defines boutique with a production of only twenty-five pieces per metal.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Harry Winston Avenue Dual Time Automatic

the manual wind harry winston avenue dual time automatic feature

Once an avant avant-garde brand, always an avant-garde brand. Once that original plunge into obscure design and complication is taken, free reign ensues. Harry Winston might have started off as a jewelry brand, but years ago they took that plunge. From the limited edition series of Opus watches, down to their most basic production watch, Harry Winston is certainly avant-garde. Their latest design, the Harry Winston Avenue Dual Time, takes their rectangular Avenue case shape and makes it interesting.

This vertical rectangle, in either sedna rose gold or Zalium (Harry Winston’s own ultra light allow) measures a substantial 55mmx36mm. Sandwiched between two sapphire crystals is Harry Winston’s in house calibre HW3502 movement. This movement features day, date, time, day/night indicator,
retrograde hours, and a second timezone. Above the movement lies an eccentric dial. Layered and slightly skeletonized, its a good thing Harry Winston decided to label the dial in order to read the time. The local and hometime are both labeled. The depth and finish on this dial is very impressive. For added comfort on the wrist, the crown has been placed at the 5 o’clock position as to not dig into your wrist.