The Manual Wind: The IWC Spitfire Chronograph British Film Festival Limited Edition

By Ian Schwam August 3, 2016

IWC Spitfire, blue steel, british film institute limited edition

Limited edition timepieces are starting to rub people the wrong way. Brands are pumping out limited editions with the only difference being a subtle change in the coloration of the dial for some of their most popular pieces. Consensus among collectors is resoundingly negative, since each limited edition quickly trumps the previous and devalues others. This holds true until a well-designed limited edition timepiece that can be celebrated hits the market.

IWC is a brand guilty of this limited edition production practice, though not as flagrantly as some, like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. It’s latest limited edition, the IWC Pilot Spitfire Chronograph BFI (British Film Institute), takes the ever popular blue steel accents and makes it the piece’s focal point.

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The IWC Spitfire is a classic IWC timepiece. This pilot chronograph is 43mm of stainless steel attached with a blue crocodile strap and folding buckle. But what really makes this limited edition is the dial. Made with argente silver, the dial is reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Regulator Annual Calendar. Radiant with different finishes, this dial is highlighted with blue steel accents. Luminescent Arabic numbers and hands make for a sharp and clean contrast. Blue steel is often used for hands, but IWC takes this to the next level by creating a dial fully adorned in blue. Under the dial sits an IWC in-house caliber automatic flyback chronograph movement. Capping this piece is a solid case-back engraved with the BFI logo.

Limited editions that look this good are disappointing—disappointing because a piece with this design should beregular production piece. Simple and classic with the right amount of detail, the BFI spitfire will be highly sought after. What is even more unfortunate is that it will only be sold in the UK. If you’re reading this IWC, please anger your British consumers and make this a staple piece in your US distribution. We all love blue steel.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Bell & Ross BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph

manual wind bell ross br x1 skeleton chronograph

The aviation inspired watch has been around since, well, the dawn of aviation. This category of watches are designed truly fueled by necessity; large numbers and hands in large cases for easy legibility while flying and monitoring a flight control panel. Back in 2005, Bell & Ross took the gauge to the wrist with the introduction of the BR series. This 46mm goliath, distinguishably square, with large numbers and hands was an instant hit. Reasonably priced at under $5,000, the BR caught on fast and became a staple weekend timepiece for collectors. Now almost ten years later, the BR line has come a long way bearing new materials and complications. Their latest offering, the BR-X1 Skeleton Chronograph, proves just that.

Made out of Titanium, ceramic, and rubber, the 45mm BR-X1 case has a modern yet rugged appearance; almost futuristic yet still keeping the BR theme. Matte ceramic, rubber, and brushed titanium bring out some of the best finishing Bell & Ross has offered. Add to that a sharp skeletonized dial of grey-tinted mineral glass revealing an exposed date wheel and gears and this piece becomes a standout. Beneath the skeleton dial is the Swiss made Bell & Ross modified chronograph movement. Flip the piece around and there is a small sapphire window giving a peak into a portion of the movement as well. As with most of the BR line, this piece is paired with a rubber strap and ceramic tang buckle staying true to their original functionality.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Glashutte Original Senator Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

manual wind glashutte original senator seventies chronograph panorama date go 70 chron

Iconic watches are often targets. The best of the best, of anything, will forever be replicated. The original anything is always up on that pedestal, but what happens when the imitation ends up be just as desired? That might be the case with another offering out of Glashutte, Germany. With its design not that far off of the iconic Genta designed Patek Philippe Nautilus, Glashutte Original gets elegantly sporty with its latest; the Senator Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date.

Set in stainless steel, this T.V. screen cushion shaped case houses the newly designed Glashutte caliber 37-02. One of my favorite chronograph movements on the market right now, this movement leaves nothing to be desired. Fully in-house, this chronograph boasts a central stop seconds hand, 30 minute and 12 hour counters, a small seconds with power reserve indicator (70 hour power reserve), flyback function, and not to leave out the two wheel fifteen jewel big date complication that Glashutte is known for.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Blancpain Villaret Chronographe Pulsometre

manual wind blancpain villaret chronographe pulsometre blanpuls

One of the great ironies in the watch world is the chronograph complication. Although equally classic and useless, it happens to be a staple in every man’s watch collection. While the function of a chronograph, a stopwatch, is not very useful these days, it is the multiple hands and symmetrical dial layouts that have made this the most popular complication to produce. Blancpain, producers of some of the most classic Swiss timepieces, has taken the classic chronograph to a new level with the introduction of the Blancpain Villaret Chronographe Pulsometre. Known for their movements and dials, Blancpain has has brought their strong points to the forefront with this latest release.
Now larger than their previous Blancpain Villaret Chronograph, the enamel and hand painted dial fills out this above average 43.6mm case size. With help from the classic Villaret design, this larger case set in rose or white gold, is much more dramatic on the wrist with the stark white of the enamel dial taking most of the wrist space. A slim bezel makes for more dial surface area. The unique feature of this piece is the Pulsometer painted on the perimeter of the dial. Chronographs generally cater to plains and automobiles to calculate speed. This piece is a tribute to the older chronographs designed with doctors in mind.
Under the dial lies the Blancpain in house caliber F385 movement. Beating at 36,000vph, this column wheel chronograph incorporates a silicon balance spring and also has a flyback function. Unique to Blancpain, each of their mechanical movements incorporate a 100 hour standard power reserve setting them apart from a lot of comparable movements. A sapphire crystal case back and textured rotor round out this new flagship chronograph.
Over the years, Blancpain has been able to set themselves apart from the competition all the while maintaining their classical watchmaking DNA. The Blancpain Villaret Chronographe Pulsometre with its larger diameter and new movement is a testament to that.