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The Manual Wind: Ressence Type 1 Genesis

the manual wind ressence type 1 genesis
In the watch world, new brands emerge all the time.  Whether its a name dug up out of the crates of watch history, or the namesake of a skilled watchmaker, new names are hitting watch dials with annual frequency.  One of the newer arrivals on the scene is Ressence.  In 2010, a forward thinking watchmaker by the name of Benoit Mintiens introduced three prototypes at Basel World in Geneva.  These prototypes set out to redefine how a watch tells time.  Losing traditional hands and a crown, Ressence has a minimalist design achieving the feel of a 42mm pebble on the wrist.  Five years later, Ressence has introduced a number of eye catching editions.  It’s latest, the Ressence Type 1 Genesis, maintains a minimalist design and looks as if an alien being might have left it for us to find.

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Milled from a single block of titanium, this piece is as raw as it looks.  The dial is made up of four discs which rotate like planets in orbit.  Galvanized hands and markers make for a natural contrast on the roughly milled dial made of convex nickel silver.  This revolutionary new way of approaching the displaying of time is a first in a watch.  All the discs rotate independently but in sync to tell accurate time all under a bubble sapphire crystal.  Setting and winding of the watch is done on the underside of the case.  With no crown, this piece does not discriminate against which hand you wear.  Attached with a berenia calf strap, this piece has a complete natural look.

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Industrial design has taken one of the most classic items in history, the wristwatch, and turned it into a whole new specimen.  Minimalist design and finishing has been paired with innovative thinking and movement complication to create a simple masterpiece.  With only five examples of this piece being produced, this is truly the definition of simplistic and rare.  With a price tag of nearly $20,000, you should hope you stumble upon one the aliens accidentally left behind.

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The Manual Wind: The Fabergé Visionnaire Double Timezone for your Wrist
Faberge Visionnaire, Double Timezone

What is in a name?  Watch conglomerates are experts at rejuvenation by digging in the files of watchmaking’s past, choosing a brand with history and resurrecting it with present technology.  Many current brands have taken this path.  Years dormant and suddenly revived.  Fabergé is a name known very well.  Perhaps its fame is not from watchmaking, but why not create a watch?  Fabergé is known for its priceless and collectible eggs, clocks and object d’art.  Almost synonymous with royalty, why shouldn't this brand be utilized today for luxury?

The latest creation out of the house of Fabergé is the Fabergé Visionnaire Double Timezone.  Offered in DLC titanium or rose gold, this 43mm timepiece is a standout.  A domed sapphire crystal encapsulates the futuristic design of the dial.  The hands can be seen protruding from a center ring to tell the time, while in the center of this ring lies a wheel displaying a second timezone digitally.  Great texture and detail give this piece a very futuristic look.  Under the dial lies a well dressed 50 hour power reserve in-house caliber movement.  This can also be seen from the underside of the watch.  This piece is attached to the wrist with either a black or brown crocodile strap.

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The Manual Wind: An Affordable Timeless Timepiece with an Appropriate Name
the manual wind an affordable timeless timepiece with appropriate name eterna

We have all had that moment looking through the drawers at our grandparents.  Sifting through the artifacts of their time perhaps finding some tools, a knife, or even a wristwatch.  That old wristwatch at the back of your grandfathers desk drawer may very well bear the name Eterna.  One of the older watch companies still recognized, these affordable timepieces could be considered a tool watch; bought for the true purpose of telling time.  This old watch company dating back to 1856 has brought back that affordable timepiece with the Eterna Eternity Automatic.

At 40mm in diameter, Eterna has created a modern dress watch.  In stainless steel and PVD gold steel, two looks are offered for an affordable price.  The dial is what makes this watch.  A silver sun-brushed dial brings back the old days giving this watch its classic look.  Beneath the dial lies a Sellita Swiss automatic movement with a 38 hour power reserve.  The piece attaches to the wrist with either a black or brown crocodile embossed calf strap with a tang buckle.

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The Manual Wind: Ulysse Nardin Steel Anniversary
the manual wind ulysse nardin steel anniversary un170email

The lugs of a timepiece are extremely important.  I would liken then to the rims of a car.  These four identical pieces are not only necessary for the use of the item, but greatly effect the appearance aesthetically.  The point at which the strap is attached to the watch case can alter a watches personality greatly.  In the case of the new Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture 170th Anniversary, the lugs define the piece.

At 40mm in diameter, this stainless steel dress piece is quite different from your typical Ulysse Nardin.  In the past, limited edition timepieces were made in precious metals only.  Here we have a limited edition of 170 pieces made in steel.  The dial of this piece is hand painted enamel which is more consistent with past UN limited pieces.  Blue roman numerals are matched with blue steel hands and a blue crocodile strap to make this classic yet casual dress look.  Below the in-house crafted dial lies the UN in-house caliber UN-320 movement which features a Silicium hair spring and anchor escapement.  The lugs of this limited piece and of the Classico line are what make this piece though.  Strong, angled, and pronounced, they take your average 40mm dress piece and add strength to the design.

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