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The Manual Wind: Bulgari Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon

Ian Schwam
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the manual wind bulgari octo ultranero finissimo tourbillon 16bulgultra2
Its disappointing to see amazing design not make it to the main stream.  The Bulgari Octo is just not there yet.  The Gerald Genta design, previously under the Gerald Genta name, now bears a big name on its dial and yet has still not made it.  Bulgari purchased this line years ago and the only thing they have done right with it is not change the classic Octo design.  I have been saying for years that this design is the next big thing.  Classic, modern, angular, and unique; the Octo has a chance to be an icon.  Although Bulgari has not had a breakout design in with this line, they are certainly trying.  Good movements and simple combinations make for nice pieces.  Its latest is another piece i would like on my wrist; The Bulgari Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon.

16bulgultra3This ultra-thin Tourbillon holds within its black DLC titanium case a world record thin movement.  At just 1.95mm thick, this Tourbllion with a 52 hour power reserve, is the thinnest non bridge Tourbillon.  The movement is as elegant as the design; black DLC coating with rose accents.  Another piece in the Octo line that is classic yet modern.  Attached with an integrated crocodile strap and folding buckle, this sleek look is complete.

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I truly appreciate the Octo family by Bulgari and do like their designs.  I would gladly wear almost any model.  I unfortunately do not speak for the mainstream.  Brands across the watch world struggle to make an iconic design and market it properly to success.  Bulgari is sitting on a gold mine; one of the of the last few icons that is not being utilized properly.  Perhaps The Octo will be Jean Claude Biver’s next project.  In the mean time, lets hope others begin to appreciate pieces like the Octo Ultranero Finissimo Tourbillon like I do.

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the manual wind affordable tag heuer carrera 02 tourbillon chronograph 16tag02b

The time has finally arrived, and it is being told by the most accurate complication; the tourbillon.  When Jean Claude Biver took over Tag Heuer, it was obvious there were big changes to come.  The first was the announcement of an affordable tourbillon.  This complication, first designed by Breguet in the 1800s, is bult for accuracy.  Counteracting the force of gravity on the movement, the aesthetically pleasing visual of the tourbillon is meant to keep the most accurate time in all eight positions a watch can be in.  This well out of reach complication sat at the top of every brands line with a six figure price tag.  Jean Claude Biver decided he would put the tourbillon within reach, and he has.

The Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon is a 45mm modular case made up of twelve different components.  This modular design is reminiscent of Biver’s last brand resurection; Hublot.  Made of titanium, both brushed and blackened, this is a sport tourbillon.  The movement is an in-house caliber COSC certified chronograph automatic tourbillon with a 65 hour power reserve.  The dial has an industrial look that fits well with this multi finish and component case.  Black crocodile or rubber strap with titanium buckle completes this piece.

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the manual wind iwc big pilot heritage limited edition iwcbp1

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Offered in two sizes, 48mm and 55mm, the larger version is the largest IWC introduction since 1940.  Taken from the original 1940 design, the Heritage brings back that classic look, but with a twist.  The case is now in titanium.  A monster like this comes in weighing a mere 150 grams (over 30 grams less than the steel version).  Blue steel hands and the now extremely popular faux patina add contrast to this classic dial layout.  Attached with a brown calf strap and deployment completes this tribute pilot piece.  An IWC 8-day power reserve moment powers this classic beast.  There is even a newly added window on the caseback to view the power reserve truly making this a modern classic.

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the manual wind 2015 watch of year mb f legacy machine perpetual calendar

For the 2015 Manual Wind watch of the year, I have chosen one that although not easily attainable, is extremely notable.  Its not easy for boutique brands to break through to collectors.   A lot come out with interesting design, but flop.  It takes the right backing and the right watchmakers to create a successful boutique brand.  MB&F, Maximilian Büsser & Friends, has been able to break from the pack.  Their designs are as aesthetically pleasing as they are horologically pleasing.  Far out designs make for interesting time displays.  Their more traditional designs have amazing depth and detail.  The combination of unique design, depth and detail has put MB&F on the radar of all modern collectors.  Blowing the minds of all horological enthusiasts this past year is the timepiece I have chosen for the Manual Wind watch oft the year; the MB&F Legacy Machine Perprtual.

44mm in diameter, this is simply a display case for the amazing movement inside.  Designed from scratch by Stephen McDonnel, this classic perpetual movement is brought alive under the domed crystal of the Legacy Machine.  The movement displays hours, minutes, day, retrograde date, month, retrograde leap year and the level of the 72 hour power reserve.  Elevated above it all is a 14mm balance wheel.  Characteristic of the other Legacy Machines, this feature sets this piece apart from all other watches ever produced.  The depth this creates within the watchcase is what helps make this piece so impressive.  Cast in rose gold or platinum, this piece defines boutique with a production of only twenty-five pieces per metal.

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