The Manual Wind: Panerai Made 99 Pieces and You Won’t Get One

By Ian Schwam May 25, 2016

the manual wind panerai made 99 pieces and you wont get one pam00672 firenze

In the artisan world, describing something as ornate is common. In order for an artist to show their true potential, they might reach the point of ornate. Over-the-top or contrived design is not all bad though. In the case of the new Panerai PAM 672 Firenze 3 day, artisans went to town creating a limited edition that is the best kind of ornate.

PAM00672 FIRENZE

Created exclusively for the Panerai boutique in Firenze, Italy, the PAM 672 takes one of Panerai’s latest models, the Radiomir 3 day, and gives it the artisan treatment. This limited edition of 99 pieces has an exquisite hand engraved stainless steel case. Each case takes one week to complete. To accompany this masterpiece, the 3-day power reserve movement is laser engraved for added detail. The dial is just as nice as the case. A grey sunburst dial creates a sandwich with a well matched patina luminescence. “Firenze” with a lilly mark the dial as well setting it apart. A vintage brown calf strap attaches this masterpiece to the wrist with a tang buckle.

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There is something to be said for detail. This piece is not complicated, does not have any wild avant garde design, nor does it scream form the owners wrist. This is a great example of ornate done right. There are few watches more classic than the Panerai Radimoir. With amazing hand detailing and dial contrast that is eye-catching yet subdued, Panerai has created a limited edition with the prefect blend. We should thank them for taking 99 weeks to create these 99 pieces. Good luck trying to get one though.

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The Manual Wind: Raymond Weil Nabucco Chronograph Inspired by Gibson Guitars

the manual wind raymond weil nabucca chronograph inspired by gibson guitars nabucco

Over the last five years, there has been an epidemic of collaborations in the watch market. Brands like Hublot have taken their mainstay design and turned it every color in the rainbow. This has brought plenty of criticism amongst watch critics and consumers alike. Im pleased to report that regardless of inspiration, a nice watch is a nice watch. As an up and coming brand looking to take a rebuilding Tag Heuer into the ring, Raymond Weil has broken the limited-edition stigma and showed its deserving of a stool in that corner. Introducing the Raymond Weil Nabucco inspired by Gibson Guitars.

This 46mm steel and titanium timepiece, baring both the Raymond Weil and Gibson logos, shares identifiers of both brands. The dial was designed to incorporate Gibson DNA in with that of the Raymond Weil Nabucco; their flagship timepiece. Six strings are signified on the dial adding a classic element to an otherwise sporty chronograph. Showing some more of Raymond Weil’s more current watchmaking prowess is their grey ceramic tachometer bezel and 46 hour power reserve in-house chronograph. Paired with a black crocodile strap and capped with an exhibition back (which also bares the Gibson name), Weil and Gibson have taken this piece way beyond the current Nabucco.

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The Manual Wind: Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Tarrarum

manual wind montblanc heritage spirit orbis tarrarum h 03

The watch market is the place to be, or at least that is the sentiment luxury brands all share. Names like Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, and Ralph Lauren have made offerings to the watch gods but it is still to be decided if they accept. One brand that been in the watch game for some time but it not typically equated with watches is Montblanc. This classic producer of fine writing instruments has been trying its hand on the wrist for some years now, but over the last few years has been showing serious watchmaking prowess. This year, they introduced some noteworthy pieces, including the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum.

At a conservative 41.5mm, the perfect size for a dress watch, this world time has certainly learned from the best. A watch of this complication will certainly resemble its competitors. Fortunately for Montblanc, this piece has a close resemblance to the Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin world times, yet Montblanc is not quite at that level. This piece offers the dramatic world time look of the greats for far less money. There is great depth to this dial layering the rings of the world time. Legibility is also very important and this piece reads quite clearly. There is a lot of information on there, but you wont need a loop to decipher it.

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The Manual Wind: Panerai Radiomir 1940 PAM 572

manual wind panerai radiomir 1940 pam 572

Heritage frequently dictates design. In the watch world, brands do their best to both recall history as well as keep up with horology. Old designs with new movements have been the theme of the past few years and Panerai is no exception. Known for their Italian Navy heritage, Panerai brings back the 1940s and 1950s with their cases, crystals, and dials, but there is no doubt their movements are circa 2014. The latest example of this is the Radiomir 1940 three day automatic PAM 572.

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