Serious watch collectors are invested in purchasing quality timepieces that embody the heritage, craftsmanship, and aesthetics that align with their lifestyle. In today’s marketplace, however, trends can potentially become a priority over true horological excellence, confusing many who are committed to quality watches. Styles that may catch your eye initially may lose their luster over time, as they may lack authenticity and simply don’t possess qualities that are likely to stand the test of time. For those looking to curate a collection that is truly refined, the following edicts are watch styles to avoid if you’re a serious connoisseur.
1. Fake patina
Distressed or ‘aged’ watches have an enormous amount of appeal for certain collectors, and this is one of the central reasons why many brands have been known to artificially distress lumes and dials to resemble vintage watches. This artificially aged look has its fans, but a genuine patina takes decades to naturally age, and a fake patina watch is a marketing ploy that sometimes looks forced and adds no true value.
Instead of artificially aged versions, opt for designs that are inspired by a vintage aesthetic or seek out vintage timepieces that possess an authentic patina. Alternatively, some premium microbrands produce modern watches with a classic aesthetic that also make the grade.
2. Oversized cases
Oversized watch cases not only look unrealistic on most wrists, but they also tend to be uncomfortable and lack the elegant aesthetic typically associated with luxury timepieces. During the early 2000s, oversized designs larger than 42mm were a trend, but today, it’s a dated look that has significantly lower resale value.
Instead of larger versions, choose between classic sizes ranging from 36mm to 40mm, which are more proportionate to wrists and allow for greater versatility. The Rolex Explorer is a classic example of a timepiece with sizing featuring a vintage aesthetic.
3. Homage watches
Another marketing ploy being used by some brands offering near-identical replicas from brands like Audemars Piguet, or Rolex at lower prices. They may look similar, but they hold no originality and thus, long-term retail value.
Instead of overpaying for fake luxury homage watches, look for brands that produce premium entry-point luxury watches that offer unique designs and technical excellence. Another option to consider is purchasing a pre-owned classic in mint condition.
4. Overcomplicated movements
Watches that feature unnecessary complications (tourbillons, moon phases) simply for show can not only cheapen the aesthetic of the timepiece, but they can also compromise the execution of the watch and increase servicing costs. Instead, opt for trusted brands that are known for impressively constructed complications that offer simple, yet robust movements. Also, check for purpose-built features like GMT for travel and chronographs for timing.
5. Overbranding and ‘busy’ designs
Excessive usage of logos and slogans on watches reduces the retail value as this brief trend quickly lost its appeal over time. Subtle branding like Patek Philippe’s offers clean dials and customizable options to personalize your timepiece. For an understated yet elegant look, this is the way to elevate a look.
6. Poorly produced ‘limited editions’
Limited edition releases that are not truly limited bring no value to watches over time and serve as a marketing gimmick that does nothing to enhance the exclusivity of a watch. Instead of fashion brands releasing limited-edition watches that offer no real heritage, consider researching brand collaborations with horological significance and serial-numbered series from trusted watchmakers.
7. Gold-plated watches
They may look amazing at first, but over time, gold-plated watches lose their luster and begin to expose the metal underneath. Instead of choosing a watch with an expiration date on its look, opt for solid 18K gold editions or even vintage gold pieces. Two-tone options are also visually appealing and an affordable option for watch collectors.
8. ‘On trend’ watches
‘On trend’ or hyped watches owe much of their value to social media platforms that superficially elevate their prominence in the watch industry. These celebrity edition models typically lose much of their retail value once the hype subsides, and it is a better approach to invest in timeless designs from trusted brands like Rolex or Omega that offer an understated luxury and have proven track records as investment pieces.
Invest with care
The primary elements that make a watch truly excellent are a combination of heritage, craftsmanship, and longevity. Avoiding overly hyped new releases and trendy styles will ensure that the collection you assemble will last a lifetime – and possibly for generations, thanks to its mechanical excellence and higher resale value.
