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Say hello to the Italian pilsner

Italians do it better

Grill and beer
Dusan Petkovic / Shutterstock

The land of beer can prompt a lot of questions. One might wonder what the best barrel-aged stout might be. Or, perhaps which hops are trending at the moment. You have questions, we usually have answers.

In the world of pilsner, there’s a relatively new player in town and it’s the work of Italians. The beer is all kinds of refreshing, dry-hopped and ideal for summer. Say hello to the Italian pilsner, a beer you must know more about.

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There’s plenty of time for heavier off-season beers and conversations about porter vs. stout. For now, in the midst of the heat of summer, let us embrace the Italian pilsner. There may not be a more satisfying beer for, well, right now.

What’s an Italian Pilsner?

Certain things differentiate the Italian pilsner from the wider pilsner pack. Many point to the dry-hopped nature of the beer, which is an approach more often used in the Italian style. However, other European pilsners are now and again dry-hopped. The better description involves the slow food movement, something the Italians practically invented. Think of the Italian pilsner as a slow beer, one given a little more TLC to really dial-in those grassy hop notes while keeping the ABV nice and light.

Pilsners by and large are turned out pretty quickly, with speedier fermentations that sometimes lead to less nuanced beers. If you tasted an Italian pilsner side-by-side with a more conventional version, it’s fair to assume you might catch a little more hoppy bitterness, balanced out by an approachable roundness overall. And at about 4.5% ABV, these are great beers for the dog days of summer. They appeal to both those looking for something light as well as those looking for something deftly-made with a few more layers than you average lager-style beer. Think of the style as perhaps a more sophisticated version of macro Asian beers (or macro light beers coming out of just about anywhere, really), which we love for what it’s worth.

Legend has it, the Italian pils came about in the 90s and was the result of a little experimentation. The brewer borrowed from UK tradition, incorporating the dry-hop technique in the process. This affords an extra kick of green and herbal notes, which add a little length to the beer. And now that many American brewers are trying their hand at the style, it’s continuing to evolve. Brewers are trying different hop bills and putting their own stamp on the Italian-style pilsner. It’s become not just a favorite for warmer days but among brewers, as they appreciate the many delicate flavors that make up the beer style.

Think of dry hopping like you might tea. Those dried hops are added at the later stages of fermentation and add fragrance and flavor not unlike steeping tea leaves. Brewers can use whole-leaf hops, pellets, or some other form and while some bitterness can come of it, the process is mostly done to enhance aroma and impart some floral characteristics in the beer, among other things.

Bottles and cans to look for

There are a growing number of solid Italian pilsners hitting bottle shops and shelves throughout the country. Some of our favorites include the work of Wayfinder Beer from Portland and Firestone Walker, a prominent west coast brewery. The option from Highland Park is fantastic, as is the Birricio, a true Italian option from the Old Country. Speaking of Italian, you can’t really go wrong with a Peroni Nastro Azzurro, as it’s one of the cleanest macro beers on the market.

For other craft options, look out for the Italian Pilsner from Buoy Beer Co. in Oregon. And one of the better options is actually a non-alcoholic beer from Untitled Art. The beer is a testament to just how far the near beer category has come as of late. As always, ask your local brewery or tap house if they have something in this vain. Breweries don’t always bottle or can their work, especially in the early research and development stages of certain beers.

How to pair with an Italian pilsner?

One of the many merits of the pilsner is how food-friendly it is. But if you really want to treat the Italian style right, we suggest a good al fresco pizza situation. Go simple and try a Margherita or mushroom and veggie pie (grilled summer produce is a great option if you want to keep things on the lighter side). Light pasta can do surprisingly well with the beer, as in Cacio e Pepe or even some fettuccine. And given that effervescence and light build, you can’t go wrong with oysters or even some tinned fish and toast—a fine Mediterranean picnic. Feeling lazy and very much on summer break? Pair an Italian pilsner up with a fast food chicken sandwich or a block of supermarket-bought sharp cheese.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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