Located behind an unassuming door in a New York subway station, Nōksu, a one-Michelin-starred restaurant, is reinventing itself. A new chef is now helming the fine-dining establishment, Chef Aaron Chang, combining his Korean heritage with New Nordic techniques. “I think the current version of Nōksu already has a very distinct identity,” explains Chang. “It isn’t boxed into traditional Korean cuisine, but it still carries that core essence through its flavors and ingredients. As I continue to grow with the restaurant, my goal is for the menu to become even more refined and intentional, creating an experience where guests come not just to eat, but to engage with and understand our vision.”
Chef Aaron Chang’s story
Born in Queens, Chang’s culinary journey is also a showcase of his deep connection to Korea. The 32-year-old spent many childhood summers in Busan, a city in Southern Korea, where seafood is central. That fish and shellfish focus has remained an influence on his cooking style. “Even now, when I’m creating dishes, certain flavors take me right back,” explains Chang. “Like the clean, comforting anchovy broth in sujebi. It’s almost like time travel.”
The other major culinary influence on Chang’s style is New Nordic cuisine, the result of his experience at Atera under Chef Ronny Emborg. Leaving eventually as a chef de cuisine, Chang is quick to state how much Chef Emborg shaped his approach to cooking. “He has an exceptional ability to understand both what a dish requires and what it can do without something, I believe, is one of the most challenging skills to develop as a chef,” explains Chang. “Earlier in my career, I was often driven to incorporate as many techniques as possible into a single dish. Through his mentorship, I learned the importance of restraint and editing with intention to allow the primary ingredient to take center stage.”
The new menu: Korean heritage and New Nordic cuisine
Having previously tried Nōksu’s original menu, I was curious about Chef Chang’s new take. While the first iteration of Nōksu was also Korean-centric, French cuisine formed the other pillar. Currently, Nōksu offers a 10-course tasting menu priced at $250. Seafood is a major component. The Ocean Trout, perfectly cooked, was one of the best bites of the night.
Each course was beautifully presented. The Rice Flower filled with shrimp tartare was colorful and delicate, and the Butterfly pastry was a unique combination of sea bass and horseradish. Visually, the petit fours were a highlight. Four pastries with flavors such as strawberry gochujang and passionfruit white kimchi were an excellent balance of savory and sweet. It’s no accident that some of the most memorable courses were pastries. Nōksu is now home to a dedicated pastry chef, Brandon Ting. “While I’m capable of creating desserts,” explains Chang. “I believe that to deliver a truly complete experience, it’s essential to collaborate with someone who has the same level of focus and expertise in pastry as I do in savory. At Nōksu, the final courses are just as important as the opening ones. Chef Brandon brings a thoughtful and refined perspective that elevates the overall tasting menu and leaves guests with a lasting impression.”
