When MAI-KAI opened its doors in 1956, it was the most expensive restaurant debut in the nation. The vast tiki cathedral in Fort Lauderdale remains much the same today thanks to a recent revamp. Just as it was nearly 70 years ago, MAI-KAI is still a real oasis, containing a restaurant, theater, outdoor garden and waterfall, excellent drinks program, and home to some high-caliber service.
Part culinary experience, part escapist island tour, part dinner theater, MAI-KAI is the best luau outside of Hawaii, period. Some 26,000 square feet in all, it’s a time capsule that pays homage to both Polynesian culture and the 20th Century supper club. Simply put, we could not resist a visit.
The flair
The details add up, as they tend to do in the best tiki establishments. MAI-KAI has them in droves, from authentic statues imported from thousands of miles away to cool features like water cascading down the sides of windows in the Molokai Bar to convey an onboard-a-vessel sort of feel. The light fixtures are remarkable, the aesthetic is tidy and eye-catching (right down to the typography), the outdoor grounds are gorgeous, and the drinking vessels are impressive.
We loved the look from top to bottom, whether it was the patterned shirts of the staff or the spear-like bars in front of the windows. And it starts from the very beginning, as you drive over some wooden planks that put off a sound not unlike a chase scene from an old Indiana Jones movie. There are torches and thatch roofs, sure, but there’s also incredible landscaping, detailed decor, and a thoughtful layout that encourages guests to do some exploring. Like so many great tiki endeavors, it’s just a little kitsch and a lot of tropical class.
We could not resist showing up a bit early to inspect the place. The folks at the outdoor Bora Bora bar greeted us with open arms, mixing up some excellent drinks and pouring some local Floridian beer. It’s a great intro to the many sensory pleasures ahead. Outside, it’s breezy, and the soundtrack is therapeutic thanks to birdsong, water features, and the occasional lizard dashing by. You’d never know you were right off of Highway 1, next to a CITY Furniture and across the street from a Planet Fitness.
The food
Luau food is notoriously hit or miss. Because there’s so much in the way of distractions, it’s easy to let a mediocre dining experience pass code. Not so at MAI-KAI, where they seem to put equal effort into cuisine, decor, and entertainment. The drinks program is especially top-notch, now helmed by the former head mixologist of esteemed Chicago tiki haven Three Dots and a Dash. It includes some 60 signature cocktails, beautifully depicted on the house menu.
Among them are standouts like the Witchcraft, a mix of tequila, Thai spices, and tropical juices, served in a masked mug. Or, the Mutiny, a mashup of rums, tropical juices, and a splash of coffee. Then there’s the Paniolo Old Fashioned, which treats High West Bourbon to banana and brown butter. They’re split into categories like light, mild, strong, and new, and include staples like the Jet Pilot, Mai Tai, Tahitian Punch, and Zombie. Even the non-alcoholic cocktails are done deftly and with gusto. The temptation tends to be to go too sweet in the tiki canon of cocktails, but everything we tried was dialed-in and delicious.
Food-wise, there are great protein options like wok-charred mahi mahi served with green pineapple curry or the smoked baby back ribs served with papaya slaw. Start with some sate or some pork belly buns, or a pupu platter. We devoured the crispy tuna wontons, which came with daikon, pepper, and tokibo (flying fish roe).
There are intriguing seafood main courses and rice pots that dot the menu. We loved the crying tiger skirt steak, which included not only a great cut of meat but also chimichurri, carrot butterscotch puree, Hawaiian tostones, and green papaya. There’s classic pad Thai and teriyaki and family style (luau style) options (we thought long and hard about the suckling pig and will return for that another time).
Desserts include items like pineapple upside-down cake, macadamia toffee bars, and key lime tarts. We suggest splurging for the Lava Volcano, especially if you’re a larger group. It’s a sight to behold, fit an actual fire show by your server. The mountainous confection is essentially torched meringue with Tahitian ice cream.
The theater
The main event is the show, essentially a musical tour around the South Pacific curated by a great emcee. In addition to invigorating tunes played by a live band, there’s traditional dance on display and plenty of narration on the history and impressive reach of Polynesian culture. It truly is a dinner and a show kind of environment, with great sound throughout, no matter how far away from the stage your booth or table might be.
We wouldn’t want to give away the ending, but you’re treated to a bevy of dance styles that trace the Polynesian landscape and pulsating music. It serves as the rhythmic heartbeat of the place and is completely immersive. It’s the best luau experience we’ve had outside of Hawaii.
