What goes around comes around, again and again. Certainly the culinary world knows as much, just consider the slow food movement or even a good Cosmopolitan cocktail recipe, back in its best forms since, well, the 90s. The latest thing to reemerge is slow-cooked chicken on a spit.
Yes, rotisserie is back and arguably better than ever. Like most things, the epicenter of the movement is taking place in New York City, but it’s spread to other food-friendly towns, from Portland to Providence. Maybe we never wanted to let the style go. Maybe we’re reliant on a relatively cheap protein in this wobbly economy. Regardless, there’s no denying the deeply comforting sensation that is chowing down on some.
One cool thing about the reemergence of the food is that while the chicken adheres to a high-quality template more of less across the board, each place (and region) applies something a little different. In the Midwest you might be enjoying an Americana take on rotisserie chicken with potato salad and grilled corn. In L.A., you might be going with something with some Lebanese flair, prepared by people who used to live in Beirut.
No two versions are exactly alike but they’re all pretty much universally delicious. Here are the best places for rotisserie chicken at the moment, with likely more to join the list as the trend thickens.
LaVerne’s
This new Portland spot has taken the city by storm. And that’s saying something, given the culinary pedigree of the place. Aside from a beautiful elongated bar with nostalgic booths and a fantastic venue next door, LaVerne’s is also a knockout chicken restaurant. Go with a whole bird, roasted with achiote and ancho and served Tex-Mex style with beans, rice, tortillas, lime, and cilantro. Wash it down with a house cocktail or slushie, made with plenty of TLC. And when you’re done, you can even work off the calories at a dance or kickboxing class at Pivot upstairs.
One of the restaurant’s coolest features is the rotisserie setup itself, a carnival-esque display that’s as hypnotic as a campfire. The no-nonsense menu is perfectly built around the poultry, with sides like nachos and the Walkin’ Taco, aka a bag of Fritos filled with vegan chili, queso, cheese, and more. There’s so much to love about this place.
Gigi’s
Gigi’s brings some Parisian goodness to Brooklyn. The place has been hopping lately, a top wine bar that also turns out family-style rotisserie chicken alongside things like broth and chicory salad. Just about all of the birds get put to use and end up in sides in some form or another. The recent announcement of a $40 half-chicken has stirred quite the debate relating mostly to restaurant costs and what it takes to eat out in big metropolises like New York City.
Cleo
Set in the West Village of Manhattan, Cleo is a bit more on the playful side, set in a beautiful old building. The chicken is deftly made and the sides bring fun and vigor to the table. Start with the cornbread with harissa honey butter and a lovely salad before going whole chicken (perhaps with some risotto for good measure). Grab some sides like potato salad or the pickle plate and wash it all down with a glass of orange wine or a classic cocktail like the Corpse Reviver #2.
ROSTO
This New Jersey joint takes a slightly different approach but ends with the same delicious results, if not in a style that’s a bit smokier. ROSTO operates with an indoor wood-fired rotisserie, a real rarity in the chicken-cooking game. We suggest the family meal with pretty much all the sides. But don’t overlook the tempura chicken tenders or sandwiches like the chicken salad croissant. Look for interesting soup options and there’s even a menu for the kiddos. And about those sides and sauces: Load up on the latter and in terms of the former, go with standouts like caramelized cabbage, Jerusalem artichokes, or roasted sweet potatoes.
Zankou
Now a small chain in Los Angeles, Zankou started in Lebanon and moved to southern California in 1984. There are four locations these days, all specializing in Mediterranean-style rotisserie. Begin with a summery salad like Fattoush before getting into the sumptuous chicken. There are also Middle-Eastern staples like kabobs and shawerma. Per California tradition, you can get the protein in bowl or wrap form and there are great sides like mutabbal (charred eggplant, garlic, tahini), tabbouleh salad, and falafel. Try a refreshing hibiscus raspberry tea and don’t forget to end with baklava. Then, perhaps, a nap in the southern California sun.
If there’s no rotisserie chicken happening in your town yet, give it a minute. You’ll likely find something soon if this trend continues to enjoy another renaissance. If you’re feeling really inspired, try your hand and making some at home. It’s a delicious and fun summer enterprise.
