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Forget the bar cart—this zero-proof lounge is raising the NA bar

Next level NA service

All The Bitter and an NA cocktail.
Kelly Puleio

The non-alcoholic drinks sector is now a vast galaxy of sorts. It continues to grow in impressive fashion with more options than ever, both at the bar and at the store. And now that there’s good infrastructure, it seems like a good time for NA to achieve new heights.

All The Bitter is an experiential tasting room focusing on all things non-alcoholic. That means craft NA cocktails, educational tastings, a zero proof market with some 200 products for sale, and even tours. It’s arguably the most ambitious non-alcoholic venture in the United States to date and the timing could not make more sense.

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We chatted with co-founder Ian Blessing about the project. He and his partner, Carly, boast some serious industry chops, having worked at The French Laundry. The California wine country restaurant is considered one of the best on the planet, the brainchild of esteemed chef Thomas Keller. Chatting with Blessing, we came away with a clear picture of the NA scene and how higher-end ventures like his will perhaps put the category in the same kind of esteem as, say, vintage French wine or the best bars in America.

The state of NA

All the Bitter NA cocktail.
Brightside Photography

Blessing says the non-alcoholic sectors has come a long way in the past few years. “It’s incredibly exciting to see innovative spirits like The Pathfinder, Three Spirit, Tenneyson, Ghia, and Wilderton creating unique, complex flavors that complement the more traditional NA gins, whiskeys, and tequilas on the market,” he says. “Combined with alcohol-free cocktail bitters like ours at All The Bitter, bartenders now have a full toolkit to make drinks that are just as satisfying and nuanced as their alcoholic counterparts. Our lounge’s menu is proof: you can now make any style of cocktail—without alcohol—and it won’t feel like a compromise.”

He adds that the liquids now are being used to create drinks far above and beyond “just juice.” But while that’s exciting, there’s still some lagging. “That said, education and distribution are still catching up,” adds Blessing. “While the products are out there, they’re not always easy to access. Most bars rely on traditional distributors that deliver weekly, so getting bartenders to order from newer platforms like Faire or Airgoods—or direct from producers—is still a hurdle. Making these products more accessible is the next big challenge.”

At All The Bitter, Blessing is really enjoying the Americana at the moment. “It’s bracingly bitter yet balanced with just enough sweetness, and the bubbles make it incredibly refreshing,” he says. “We make it with Wilderton Bittersweet—which is intensely bitter and herbal—plus Namari, a rich and spiced aperitif with bold chicory notes, layered with our coffee bitters and soda.”

Others of note include the Easy Does It, which he says drinks like a cross between a Mojito and a Caipirinha. Then there’s the Island Mule, made with a ginger-forward kava spirit called Kavahol, along with pineapple juice, passionfruit syrup, ginger beer, lime, and their own bitters. “It’s our best seller—bold, tropical, and you definitely feel the kava buzz,” he says.

Lessons and leveraging Michelin star experience

Brightside Photography

One of the biggest lessons is that you don’t need to throw out the classic cocktail playbook—but you do need to tweak it,” Blessing says of a solid NA approach. “The traditional balance between spirit, citrus, and sweetener still applies, but non-alcoholic ingredients behave differently. Sometimes you need more of the spirit, less sugar, or a different acid structure—it really depends on the drink. We’ve spent hundreds of years perfecting cocktail formulas, and those principles still provide a solid foundation.”

Some formats, of course, are simpler to work with than others. “Sours like Margaritas and Lemon Drops, or drinks with mixers like ginger beer or sparkling wine, tend to be more successful because they add body and texture—something NA spirits can lack,” he admits. “Spirit-forward drinks can work, but you need bold, complex bases like The Pathfinder, Tenneyson, or Three Spirit to carry the weight. If you try to make an Old Fashioned or Manhattan with 1:1 swaps, it’s usually thin and underwhelming.”

As industry veterans, the Blessings take full advantage of their shared experience. Blessing says their joint time at French Laundry shapes how they do pretty much everything. “It instilled in us a deep commitment to exceptional service and attention to detail, and it also helped train our palates,” he says. “Years of tasting and serving world-class wine has had a huge impact—not only in how we developed our bitters, but now in how we craft cocktails and explain non-alcoholic wine to our guests.”

The narrative angle can’t be overlooked. “One of the biggest takeaways was the power of storytelling,” he continues. “At TFL, everything had meaning—the color of the front door, the trees in the courtyard, the names of the farmers and producers. That sense of care and connection carries over to what we’re doing now. Our menu features locally grown olives marinated with herbs from our own garden, a cheese plate with three local cheeses, northern California honey, jam, and mustard, served on boards made by a local woodworker and ceramics crafted by a local artist.”

That kind of intent and seriousness is perhaps just what the NA sector needs to go next level.

The future of NA

Carly and Ian Blessing.
Kelly Puleio

What resides on the horizon of the vastly-emerging non-alcoholic circuit? “Education and distribution—hands down,” Blessing says. “I’ve had enough incredible non-alcoholic cocktails over the past few years (and this is coming from someone who used to serve Grand Cru Burgundy every night) to know that great NA drinks aren’t some far-off dream. The products and techniques exist—they just need to get into bartenders’ hands. And when they do, the results are undeniable. At our lounge, we see it every day: People are genuinely shocked at how good these drinks are.”

Growth will be a given as there is still so much room in this deceptively large realm. “There’s also a massive, underserved market,” Blessing says. “Most Americans either don’t drink or only have one or two drinks a week—that’s a much larger demographic than vegetarians, gluten-free, or dairy-free consumers, and those markets have flourished. There’s real money here, but more importantly, there’s an opportunity for truly inclusive hospitality. That’s what I hope is next: more bars, more restaurants, more spaces that make everyone feel welcome—drink or no drink.”

The Manual has the beat covered when it comes to food and drink. Check out our related features on the best NA beers and the Denver food scene. Here’s to a tasty 2025.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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