These days, the fine dining scene is so expansive that it covers most of the map. Top honors like James Beard Awards and more go beyond just NYC and into smaller cities with burgeoning scenes. Take Milwaukee, long overshadowed by its larger Great Lakes neighbors, but home to an amazing culinary landscape at the moment. Here is where I tempered my thirst and appetite while I visited Brew City.
Move over Chicago and Minneapolis; Milwaukee has a vibrant food and drink scene worth exploring, too. Here’s proof.
The Mothership
A recent James Beard Semifinalist for Outstanding Bar, The Mothership is exactly that. This crafty cocktail bar boasts some seriously inventive recipes, blending new and old techniques. You’ll want to try every bar original, from the Silver City Special (mezcal, tropical gin, pineapple, tamarind, miso, maple) to the Oolong Island Iced Tea to the Coconut Curry Painkiller. And the feels in the bar are out-of-this-world good, thanks to adventurous patrons and a wise bar staff.
Goodkind
An Italian-inspired joint, Goodkind is a neighborly spot with fantastic Old World cuisine. Start with a great cocktail (likely made with a house-infused spirit) or Midwestern craft beer. Work your way through the Champagne-battered oyster mushrooms and Belgian triple sausage before digging into some fennel pollen-brined Amish chicken or spicy crab pasta. If you like al fresco dining, you can even grab a coveted seat outside on the sidewalk when the weather is right. If you’re in the Bay View neighborhood, this is a must.
Three Brothers
When’s the last time you ate at a proper Serbian restaurant? Three Brothers is a fine option set right along the lake. Set in a gorgeous old building, the eatery plates up enticing dishes like chicken dumpling soup, goulash, and roast suckling pig. Look out for the Sarma, or pickled cabbage leaves filled with meat, and the Plesjavika, a Serbian take on a burger. And stick around for dessert. This is yet another great immigrant tale in the vast and eclectic American food landscape.
Eagle Park Brewing Co.
A beloved brewery in a beer-heavy city, Eagle Park gets all the high marks and deservedly so. Set in a former tannery, the brick-clad building is where they pour festbiers, IPAs, Belgian white ales, and more. Be on the lookout for the barrel-aged program, as well as milkshake IPA style beers, German riffs, and some spot-on sours. There’s also a Muskego location if you’re roaming the state (or just like the names of Wisconsin towns like us).
Daddy’s Soul Food & Grille
Black Americana cuisine is on the menu at this lively restaurant near Marquette. In other words, melt-your-soul portions of catfish, fried chicken, pork chops with rice and gravy, meatloaf, and more. There’s chicken and waffles, a great meatless menu, and the desserts are amazing (go for the banana pudding or peach cobbler). Be mindful of daily specials at Daddy’s Soul Food, and if you need to walk off some calories, take a short stroll over to the Pabst Mansion after your meal. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the husband-and-wife-run spot is now a dozen years old and a fixture of the community.
Birch
A newer restaurant on the Milwaukee scene, Birch brings some contemporary Midwestern flair to the area’s food landscape. The restaurant relies heavily on its wood-fired hearth for cooking and is already raking in the awards. The cocktails are relatively restrained while teeming with flavor, and the wine list is admirable. Feast on dishes like steelhead trout crudo or charred beets. The house-made pastas are exceptional, and there are entree highlights ranging from the brick chicken to the Great Lakes walleye, served with cabbage, cashew, and Thai basil.
CASSIS
Brought to you by the Birch team, CASSIS is very much informed by the lauded cuisine of France. A brasserie of sorts, the newly-opened spot features brunch, lunch, and dinner options. Towering windows showcase lovely views of the Milwaukee River. Enjoy picks from a well-appointed wine list and items like fried oyster tarts and croque monsieur. The braised beef cheek is heavenly, and the steak and frites are not to be missed. You can even select a European beer or a cocktail like the Fields of Normandy, made with brandy, amaro, genepy, and tonic.
DanDan
Blending Chinese cuisine with Midwestern fare, DanDan offers up some creative meals. The dim sum and dumpling menus are worthy of a long perusal, while the cumin beef slap noodles and schmaltz fried rice put forth loads and loads of big flavors. You can enjoy Peking Duck and house specialties like General Tso’s cauliflower and walnut shrimp. Don’t forget about the sake and wine options, not to mention some super clever cocktails.
Hungry still? Bartender Ricky Ramirez of The Mothership suggests Hen’s Deli (get the American sub with Miracle Whip and crunched potato chips), Al Yousef for Middle Eastern food, Ruby’s Bagels, and Cloud Red.
