Creative soup recipes for winter, from a James Beard Award-winning chef

It’s prime soup season, people. That means we can celebrate everything from chicken noodle soup to tomato and basil, preferably served up with some grilled cheese. And while the standards are great, you deserve something more creative in your bowl.

Meet chef Arnold Myint. He’s a Nashville-based culinary talent, restaurateur and celebrated drag queen, who just released his debut cookbook – Family Thai: Bringing the Flavors of Thailand Home – to quick acclaim last autumn. He’s also a James Beard Award-nominated chef who competed on Top Chef.

The options have quickly become some of our favorite soup recipes out there. Read on for three great soup recipes from his beloved cookbook.

Mom’s Khao Thom Ginger Rice Soup

Here’s one you know is good as it’s based on a recipe from mom.

Ingredients:

• 1 quart (960 ml) Nam Sai (clear bone broth, see below)
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped, peeled fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon preserved salted cabbage
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped white onion
• 1 tablespoon thinly sliced lemongrass
• 6 ounces (170 g) large (21/25) shrimp, shelled, deveined, and cut into 3 pieces (11 large shrimp / 1 cup chopped)
• 1 teaspoon Magic Powder (aka Asian chicken bouillon)
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 cup (55 g) beech mushrooms, trimmed
• 1 cup (148 g) cooked jasmine rice
• Fresh cilantro leaves
• Thinly sliced scallions (green and white parts)
• Garlic Oil (see below)
• Ground white pepper

Nom Sai (clear bone broth)

This recipe makes 3 quarts.

Ingredients:

• 1 chicken carcass (about 3 pounds/ 1.4 kg)
• ½ white onion, peeled and cut into quarters
• 2 stalks celery, cut into large pieces
• ½ bunch fresh cilantro stems
• 5 cloves garlic, unpeeled and cut in half
• 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon salted preserved cabbage
• 1 tablespoon white peppercorns

Method:

1. In a large stockpot, combine the chicken carcass, onion, celery, cilantro stems, garlic, coriander seeds, salt, preserved cabbage, white peppercorns, and 5 quarts (4.7 L) water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat (do not bring the broth to a boil to prevent a murky broth). Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours.
2. Strain the broth through a fine- mesh sieve into airtight containers and refrigerate until completely cooled. Skim and discard the fat layer that sets on the top. Cover and refrigerate the broth for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

Fried garlic and garlic oil

This yields a 1/2 cup of fried garlic and 2 cups of garlic oil.

Ingredients:

• ½ cup (70 g) chopped garlic
• 2 cups (480 ml) neutral oil, such as sunflower
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Method:

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the garlic and oil. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the garlic starts to bubble, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to dance around and turns a pale golden color, about another 2 minutes. Immediately remove the pan from the heat. The garlic will continue to brown and crisp while the oil is cooling. Using a fine-mesh strainer, remove the garlic before it looks completely crispy and golden brown to avoid burning. (Be aware that the garlic can burn and turn bitter quickly, so it is crucial to remove the garlic before this happens.)
2. Transfer the garlic to a paper towel–lined plate to absorb any excess oil. Sprinkle the crispy garlic with the salt. Cool completely.
3. Use immediately, or store the fried garlic in an airtight container for up to 7 days. Store the garlic-infused oil in an airtight container (such as a lidded jar) for up to 2 weeks. (In addition to this crispy fried garlic, I also like to reserve the oil with bits of the fried garlic in the same container for a bonus garnish that’s great when added to soups and noodles).

Method for final soup:

1. In a large saucepan, combine the nam sai, ginger, preserved salted cabbage, onion, and lemongrass and bring to a boil over medium heat.
2. Boil for 1 minute, then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Add the shrimp, magic powder, fish sauce, and sugar and cook until the shrimp begins to turn opaque, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and rice and cook until the rice releases its starch to slightly thicken the soup, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Divide among 4 bowls, garnish with cilantro, scallions, garlic oil, and white pepper, and serve immediately. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Mushroom Poh Thaak

This recipe serves six and refers to a Thai boat that’s used for fishing and crabbing. It’s often called shipwreck soup.

Ingredients:

• 1 quart (960 ml) Daikon Broth
• 2 cups (115 g) sliced mixed mushrooms, such as oyster, beech, or enoki
• 8 ounces (225 g) firm tofu, drained and cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
• ¼ cup (28 g) sliced white onion
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• 4 fresh red Thai chiles, split in half
• 2 fresh makrut lime leaves, torn
• 1 stalk lemongrass (2 ounces / 55 g), ends trimmed, tough outer layers removed, cut in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
• 2 scallions, green and white parts, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
• 12 fresh Thai basil leaves
• 2 tablespoons Thai seasoning sauce
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (about 1 lime)
• Pinch of ground white pepper
• Fresh cilantro leaves, for serving

Method:

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the daikon broth, mushrooms, tofu, onion, garlic, Thai chile, makrut lime leaves, and lemongrass and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer for 3 minutes, then add the scallions, Thai basil, seasoning sauce, lime juice, and white pepper, and stir to combine.
2. Spoon into bowls, top with cilantro leaves, and serve immediately. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Gaeng Jeud

Don’t be fooled by the name of this soup (which translates to “bland soup”) as it’s quite the opposite.

Meatball ingredients:

• 1 pound (455 g) ground pork
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 scallion, green and white parts, thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon Thai seasoning sauce
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• ½ teaspoon ground white pepper

Method:

1. In a large bowl, combine the pork, garlic, cilantro, scallion, seasoning sauce, oyster sauce, and white pepper. Let stand at room temperature while you prepare the broth.

Broth ingredients:

• 2 quarts (2 L) Nam Sai (clear bone broth)
• 6 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
• 1 tablespoon preserved salted cabbage
• ¼ bunch fresh cilantro stems, leaves reserved for serving
• 1 (1 pound / 455 g) daikon radish, peeled, halved, and cut into ¼-inch (6 mm) slices (about 3 cups)
• ½ teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 scallions, green and white parts, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces

Method:

1. In a large saucepan, combine the nam sai, garlic, salted cabbage, cilantro, daikon, white pepper, and salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Continue to simmer until the daikon is just fork tender, like potatoes for potato salad, about 4 minutes.

Final soup method:

1. Using a tablespoon, make a meatball by scooping out some of the pork mixture and then gently lowering it into the simmering broth.
2. Repeat with the remaining meatball mixture. You should have about 20 meatballs. Cook, being careful not to let the broth boil (to avoid the meatballs breaking and clouding the liquid), gently stirring occasionally, until the meatballs float to the top and the internal temperature reads 165̊ F (75̊ C), 10 to 12 minutes. Season with additional salt to your taste.
3. Divide the soup among 4 bowls, top with the scallions and cilantro leaves, and serve immediately. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.