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Choosing between a Riad or hotel in Morocco: My firsthand experience

Riad or Hotel in Morocco: Choosing the right stay

AnaYela Riad
Emily Caldwell / The Manual

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Determining where to stay is an integral part of planning any trip, no matter the destination you’re visiting. Tons of questions run through my mind as I searched for accommodations, browsing through endless options on Booking.com. There’s a lot to consider — from the walkability of each option to nearby restaurants and attractions to comfort and amenities. However, as I started to plan a trip to Morocco, I found myself faced with a unique decision that hadn’t come up when traveling to locations — the choice between staying in a Riad or a traditional hotel.

In Morocco, Riads are traditional Moroccan houses built around a courtyard, which were once family homes in old medinas. Today, however, many of these houses have been converted into small guest houses that give visitors a chance to immerse themselves in Moroccan culture and enjoy an intimate stay. As you plan your visit to Morocco, here’s what I’d recommend considering when deciding between staying in a Riad or a traditional hotel.

What to consider when staying in a Riad

Moroccan culture places a heavy emphasis on hospitality and family, both of which really shine through when staying a Riad. Choosing to stay at a Riad can seem intimidating, especially for those of us who are accustomed to the standard luxuries we associate with 5-star hotels. At the same time, there’s beauty in the “unknown,” and there’s something to be said for trying something new and stepping a bit outside of your comfort zone. If you truly want to immerse yourself in Moroccan culture, I recommend staying at a Riad for at least one night to get the experience.

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There are over 1,500 Riads in popular Moroccan cities like Marrakesh, which leaves visitors with tons of options when selecting a Riad. Some are still family-run and may offer fewer modern amenities, while others are operated by larger players, such as AnaYela by Marriott.

Generally, most Riads are set up with a similar structure built around a central courtyard (and often have a fountain or small pool in the center). Some Riads may only have a few guest rooms, providing a super-intimate experience, while other larger Riads could accommodate up to 12 to 20 rooms.

Pros

  • Cultural immersion: Staying in a Riad immerses you into Moroccan culture, from the hospitality to the design of the building.
  • Quiet and intimate: The quiet nature of Riads allows for a peaceful, relaxing stay that is more like staying in a home than a traditional hotel. Traditional hotels can sometimes feel impersonal or too “Americanized”.
  • Location: Riads in Morocco (such as in Fez or Marrakesh) are often situated in the old walls of the city (medina), which provide great walkability for guests.
  • Service: The small number of guests at a Riad allows staff to provide personalized attention and assistance.

Cons

  • May be too quiet: Staying in a Riad can be too quiet for some and feel almost strange, especially for those who prefer a lively atmosphere.
  • Accessibility: The narrow, pedestrian-only streets where Riads often are can be tricky for large suitcases. During my recent stay at a Riad, a donkey with a cart was used to haul my luggage to the Riad door.
  • Food & beverage: Some Riads offer great home-cooked Moroccan meals. However, they may not be the best option for visitors looking for multiple dining options. Riads often do not have bars or serve alcohol.
  • Lack of privacy: Riads were initially built as homes, which means rooms often lack privacy and soundproofing. (Think no hotel key card or lock on the door).
  • Lack of amenities: Riads are not equipped with amenities associated with hotels, like fitness centers, WiFi, or spa access

Riad vs. Hotel: Which should you choose?

“The biggest difference between a Riad and a traditional hotel is scale and intimacy,” says Ahmed Harhara, Ph.D., a Houston-based chemical engineer and founder of HoustonHomeTools. He has personal familiarity with Middle Eastern and North African courtyard-style homes, giving him a practical, technical perspective on what travelers should expect when staying in Moroccan Riads.

“Riads have 5–10 rooms max, so you’re sharing breakfast with the same guests daily, and staff know your name by day two. Hotels run at an institutional scale—hundreds of rooms, rotating staff, complete anonymity. Architecturally, riads turn inward. No street windows, no city views—everything opens onto the central courtyard. It creates an enclosed feeling Western travelers aren’t used to. You’ll either find it calming or claustrophobic,” he shares.

Which should you choose?

“Riads work for people who adapt easily and don’t need everything predictable. You’re dealing with no elevators, spotty WiFi, fixed breakfast times, and unmarked alleys. If you need things to just work smoothly, hotels are the better call. Riads appeal to travelers wanting cultural immersion, not just a place to sleep. Worth noting—riads aren’t ideal if you have mobility issues since multiple floors and steep stairs are standard.

Splitting your stay

Personally, I’m a big fan of the “why not both?” approach. During my recent trip to Morocco, I spent three nights at a traditional hotel followed by one night at a Riad to experience both types of accommodations. For most, I think staying in a Riad for one to two nights offers the perfect amount of time to enjoy the cultural immersion. I would not personally have felt comfortable staying for longer than this, as I found myself missing modern travel amenities like reliable WiFi and some privacy.

Emily is a Features Writer at The Manual, where she specializes in food, beverage, and travel content. She focuses on weaving… Read Full Bio
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