Frankly, there’s no place like Hawaii. The remote archipelago is home to entirely singular things, from islands that get snow, surf, and lava flows all at once to a rich culture teeming with incredible art, cuisine, and customs. To be in a place like Healeakala National Park or the bustling streets of Honolulu is to be somewhere like nowhere else on the planet.
So perhaps it’s no surprise that in Hawaii, a new role has emerged. The position is modeled after the wine industry where it was born, but instead points toward the sea. It’s a unique title that celebrates the bounty of the ocean and how best to enjoy it.
We’re talking about the fish sommelier. The first one of its kind applies his trade on the west coast of O’ahu. He’s a former deep sea diver and fisherman with a special connection to the water.
We spoke with Saui Matagiese, fish sommelier at Four Seasons Ko Olina in O’ahu. The incredible resort is home to Mina’s Fish House, an award-winning restaurant. Here, Matagiese discusses 200-pound Ahi, seafood and wine pairings, and the importance of engagement.
TM: What was the impetus for creating a fish somm role?
SM: So the story behind the fish sommelier position starts with chef Mina who had an idea that he wanted some kind of fish ambassador for his only seafood restaurant. Upon opening Mina’s Fish House, a conversation by an SA by the name of Jared Chang, an avid shoreline fishermen, and chef Mina led to them discussing local fish, taste and textures, how they’re caught in Hawaii, and some background info. That led to the creation of the first fish sommelier and implemented into the restaurant. Chef Mina felt what better person to advocate for our line to table concepts of local fish than a local fisherman.
TM: Can you briefly touch on the day-to-day activities of the position?
As a Fish Sommelier at Mina’s Fish House, my role blends culinary expertise with premium guest service. Before dinner service, I manage our daily seafood inventory, verify the freshness and quality of our fish, and create both the market menu inserts and our visual whole fish display. During service, I act as a dynamic floor rover. I seamlessly support the front-of-house team with service flow while proactively engaging tables. I educate guests on local species, explain flavor profiles and culinary preparations, and demystify unfamiliar options to guide them toward a memorable, tailored dining experience.
TM: How important are the local fisheries there and how close are you with the purveyors?
Local fisheries are the heart of a genuine, fish-driven restaurant. To maintain our line-to-table concept, knowing exactly where our fish comes from is essential. When I started as a Fish Sommelier, my primary goal was to bridge the gap between our kitchen and local purveyors. I successfully established a relationship with an amazing local fish company, securing total transparency for our restaurant. On many occasions, we could trace our seafood directly from boat to captain to plate. Managing this in Hawaii is incredibly challenging due to high volume demands and tight restaurant margins. However, building this relationship allowed us to maintain our sourcing integrity without sacrificing profitability.
TM: This seems like an amazing way to celebrate Hawaiian culture and the vitality of the ocean.
In this role, I am deeply privileged to share the Hawaiian culture through the authentic lens of a local Lawaiʻa (fisherman). Growing up, this ocean literally fed my family, and now I have the incredible opportunity to connect with guests from around the world by sharing traditional knowledge about our local marine life. My ultimate goal is to inspire our visitors to leave with the same profound love and appreciation for our oceans that I carry.
TM: Are there new challenges associated with climate change that you’re working through?
Regarding environmental challenges, we see a direct economic impact on pricing due to shifting fish stocks. Not only is the demand having a choke hold on pricing but the cost of fishing has also sky rocketed as well. Over the years, local fishermen have documented a noticeable decline in both the size and quantity of catches. For instance, landing a 200-pound Ahi for small local boats used to be a regular occurrence, but it is now a rarity. This shift highlights how rising local demand and environmental changes are actively taking a toll on our marine ecosystems. So I think we trying to maintain small local purveyors who we can support will definitely allow an easier way to manage cost while also supporting our local fishermen who chose to sell to a much more trusted operation.
TM: Are there pairings (seafood and wine) that have surprised you so far?
I think the only pairing surprises I’ve come across is mainly the pairings with raw fish. Generally we associate wine pairings with cooked seafood or raw shellfish but it’s been surprising to see that even different raw fish can have different style of pairings. Raw fish pairings normally use high acidic whites as a lemon for raw fish, but it’s been surprising how fish such as ahi and even high grade Nairagi (striped) marlin are also able to pair with lighter reds like a Pinot Noir vs keeping standard to whites with raw fish like Ono.
TM: Education is a big part of the job, as it is with a traditional wine sommelier. Do you have any advice for readers at home looking to enhance their seafood experiences?
My philosophy focuses on being open-minded, adventurous, and deeply engaged with food at every stage. I believe we learn the most when we remain receptive to diverse global concepts, which is why I constantly challenge myself to experience seafood through different cultural lenses—even those that seem unconventional.
Furthermore, I believe that truly understanding food requires engaging with it entirely, well beyond just the dining table. While we may not all have the technical skill of master chefs, we gain invaluable perspective when we participate in the full lifecycle of what we eat. For me, that means connecting directly with the process: catching, growing, harvesting, preparing, and cooking. That complete engagement is what builds true culinary respect and insight.
