Love Shack is an overrated song by the B-52s. It’s also a modern tiki establishment located in the Slabtown neighborhood of Portland and arguably a worthy nominee for the best American bars shortlist. Thanks to crafty drinks, a roving bar cart, and next-level presentation, it’s one of the most exciting watering holes out there.
After a recent visit, we’re convinced of the bar’s powers. It walks the fine line between honoring tradition — something there’s quite a lot of in tiki — and forging a new path.
Staying ahead of trends
The menu is right on trend. On it, you’ll find cereal-infused spirits (the Old Fashioned is fantastic, the finish reminiscent of that last sip of Saturday morning cereal), house rum blends, coconut-washed rye whiskey, and MSG rims that offer a sizzling sensation not unlike Pop Rocks.
There are a lot of high points. The I’m Like a Bird mixes up several rums, Fernet, apricot, orange, pineapple, and lime. There’s Always Money in the Banana Stand combines banana-infused tequila, honey, yuzu, lime, and MSG. The daiquiri is a deftly-made, three-ingredient cocktail as it should be, and the Tableside Martini is an experience, offering a little theater before you get to sipping.
If these sound intimidating, you can go with a well-made classic, many involving bartender staples like Fords Gin, Old Forester bourbon, Planteray 3-Star Rum, and more. And if you can’t make up your mind, just chat up a barkeep and let them know a flavor or style you prefer.
Presentation points
Visually, there’s so much to enjoy. The bar itself is gorgeous, curvy, and stucco with just the right amount of light. The mix of browns and greens and plants and thatch on the inside is well done without being too tiki. The atmosphere is breezy but still buttoned-up. The bartenders are front and center, engaged with the crowd and happy to show off their wares. It allows you to get even closer to your drink.
Tiki, of course, is all about presentation. The bar has clearly put in the work, whether that be collecting over the years or just knowing the right people. The result is outstanding glassware and vessels coming in all tropical forms, from parrots to pufferfish. The trays and other elements add some fashion points while still being useful. You don’t get the sense they’re just showing off their gear. There’s a purpose behind it all.
Then there’s the bar cart, an antique on wheels that gets pushed around the establishment about every 30 minutes or so. On it, you’ll find a different theme of drinks each time. It could be short pours of amaro or aged whiskey. It’s a cool touch that adds to the escapist appeal of tiki in general, as it feels like you’re on a plane.
People, of course, will be taking photos of those cocktails. That’s pretty much a given these days, and The Love Shack is aware of this, mixing up extra-photogenic drinks. And they play the effects card well, too, without going to volume eleven. Think the occasional clarified cocktail or timeless garnishes like dehydrated citrus wheels, mint bunches, and paper umbrellas.
A tiki experience, circa 2025
The Love Shack wouldn’t be a 2025 tiki experience without a decent NA menu. The mocktails are taken seriously, per the Gold Teet (elderflower NA liqueur, grapefruit soda, mint) and the Pathfinderita (The Pathfinder NA spirit, raspberry, lime, agave). There are rotating taps showcasing both traditional styles and non-alcoholic beers, and there’s even a dive bar homage to the Spaghett in the Spaghetti Western, a mix of Miller High Life, pineapple, Campari, and lemon.
Service-wise, it’s a well-oiled machine, at least on our visit. Bartenders all seemed to know the menu inside and out, able to turn out the drinks while conversing and rather quickly. Time slows down in a good bar, especially one with some tiki flair, but we know some people don’t like to wait. And it’s always positive to hear bar staff excitedly bring up ingredients they’re excited to work with (citric acid, coconut, etc.) and styles of
There’s even a respectable food menu, with fun small plates that play off the cocktails well. Standouts include The Crusty Avocado, made so thanks to a coco-blackseed mix on the outside and filled with ahi tuna and caviar. You can get oysters by the half shell and try a French fry trio with yogurt caper whip. The steak frites come with a stand-up chimichurri, and for dessert, there are mini brioche donuts.
All in all, The Love Shack is well ahead of the curve and an excellent destination for the cocktail enthusiast and tiki escapist alike. Another high mark for a town known for its dining, beer, and wine, but increasingly known for its cocktail pedigree.
