We live in a culinary world that is constantly changing and evolving. Food trends come and go all the time, and our eating habits never remain the same. In just the last few years alone, Feta became a pasta sauce, butter became healthy again, and cauliflower magically turned into pizza crust. Of course, our creativity as humans plays a major part in this phenomenon, but sometimes new and exciting foods are born out of necessity, driven by a need for change. Lab-grown salmon is one such food. With concerns about overfishing, climate change, and food safety constantly rising, lab-grown salmon offers a glimpse into a future where sustainability and flavor no longer have to be at odds.
This exciting new food, cultivated from real fish cells, completely eliminates the need to raise or catch live animals, and is making its way from science fiction into high-end kitchens like Kann, one of Portland’s hottest restaurants.
What is lab-grown salmon?
Lab-grown salmon—also known as cultivated or cell-cultured salmon—is a cutting-edge advancement in the seafood industry. While it may be hard to wrap one’s mind around the idea, the product is nearly indistinguishable from traditional salmon, and far better for the environment. The sustainable alternative to both traditional aquaculture and wild-caught fishing has the potential to be a complete game changer for the seafood industry.
The product is made by cultivating real salmon cells in a controlled setting with conditions designed to simulate their natural environment. Once developed, these cells are harvested and blended with small amounts of plant-based ingredients. Once the process is complete, lab-grown salmon is nearly indistinguishable from traditional salmon in appearance, taste, and texture.
Wildtype, a biotechnology company focused on creating delicious cultivated salmon, offers a cleaner, traceable, and cruelty-free seafood option that helps meet the rising global demand without harming marine ecosystems, reducing environmental strain and addressing issues such as overfishing, pollution, and animal welfare.
And with a nutritional profile and flavor comparable to conventional salmon, lab-grown options present a promising path.
Wildtype’s first product, called “saku,” is designed to be eaten raw and served sashimi-style. “We created it for chefs who seek out the purity and flavor of fresh seafood,” Wildtype states on its website.
Is it safe?
As of just this month, Wildtype’s salmon is the first cell-cultivated fish to receive approval from the Food and Drug Administration. The FDA’s decision confirms that, based on Wildtype’s safety data, their lab-grown salmon qualifies as food safe for consumption. This opens doors for further rollouts at restaurants and, potentially, eventual grocery availability.
Of course, while entirely safe, many people are hesitant to eat food grown in a lab, perceiving it as unnatural or unappetizing. Despite being biologically identical to conventional salmon, cultivated fish can face emotional or psychological barriers from consumers who are wary of unfamiliar food technologies. There’s also ongoing debate over how lab-grown seafood should be labeled. Critics argue that terms like “salmon” or “sushi-grade” might mislead consumers into thinking the product was caught or farm-raised. Industry watchdogs and traditional fisheries worry about transparency and the risk of undermining consumer trust.
So while lab-grown salmon is safe and almost identical to natural salmon, it undoubtedly faces an uphill battle when it comes to acceptance.
Why it’s controversial
While the FDA has approved lab-grown salmon, every cell-cultivated meat must also be approved by the USDA, which is proving to be slightly more contentious. In May 2024, Florida Governor Ron DeSantis signed a bill outlawing lab-grown meat, calling it a “global elite” conspiracy that violates the law as a second-degree misdemeanor, carrying penalties of up to 60 days in jail or a $500 fine. Alabama has enacted a similar ban, while Tennessee and Arizona are considering their own restrictions.
Where can I eat it?
Following its FDA approval, Wildtype salmon was quickly debuted at Kann, Gregory Gourdet’s famed Haitian restaurant in Portland, Oregon. Known for its beautiful blending of Haitian cuisine with the flavors of the Pacific Northwest, Kann is also dedicated to the pursuit of sustainability, from sourcing and environmental impact to team quality of life, according to their mission statement.
In the partnership announcement, Chef Gregory Gourdet said, “At Kann, we take pride in the ingredients we use. Adding Wildtype’s cultivated salmon aligns with our mission to offer thoughtful, sustainable dishes for guests who share our values.”
