If you’ve ever been to Fashion Week (in any capacity or country), then you know it’s a marathon; a complete whirlwind of garments, jewelry, accessories, and more. It’s art, it’s loud, and it’s basically my Christmas. I attend NYFW every year, and I always come home with a new perspective.
A month ago, I sat through five days and over 40 designer shows at the New York Fashion Week Powered by Art Hearts Fashion event at the Angel Orensanz Foundation on Norfolk Street (the Lower East Side of Manhattan). And, now that the dust (and glitter) has settled, I’ve been thinking about what was actually wearable versus what was just for show.
While the week was packed with memorable moments, like the first-ever Cambodian showcase from Almee Couture (which was honestly breathtaking) and an incredibly powerful, patient-led runway from AnaOno (that left me in tears), I paid close attention to the menswear and accessories. (So I could report back to you guys, of course.)
The trend: Animal print & mixed textures
Animal print and mixed textures were two trends I saw everywhere, and a couple of designers really nailed the execution. Maceoo delivered a great example with their Leather Ascension0021 Orange jacket ($2,998). It was a 100% lambskin bomber with textured, reptilian-print panels on the collar and sides — a surprisingly wearable piece from a brand interestingly founded by MIT engineer, Mehdi Raad, to create algorithm-based fits.
Edher Gin’s collection showed a more avant-garde take on the animal-like theme. It’s a Mexican brand built to be the “statement piece that no one would dare to choose, but you would,” and they delivered. Gin paired a clean, oversize earth-tone suit — the Saco Tierra ($15,500) — with an extra-large, structured feather. The black-and-white accessory swooped over the shoulder to the hip like a massive, prehistoric quill, proving that an accessory can be the outfit.
The spectacle: What you’re really here for
Of course, it wouldn’t be fashion week without some shock factor. Kenneth Barlis, who’s typically known for “elegance and luxury” and even designed costumes for Disney’s American Born Chinese, showed a grey cropped blazer with heavy shoulder fringe and a hem dripping with dangling silver crystals. Chavelis Playhouse went full maximalist with a colorful, head-to-toe crochet outfit, complete with long tassels and a guitar-shaped crossbody bag by Mary and Shelley. (Those handcrafted crochet bottoms, made from vintage-sourced yarn, will set you back $400).
The “no shirt, just blazer” look was also a definite trend. Soid Studios, a Brooklyn-based brand with a “Cyber-cowboy-punk” aesthetic, sent a model out in a black, unbuttoned blazer and face paint. Mister Triple X, the high-end streetwear line from Art Hearts Fashion’s own president, Erik Rosete, embraced the trend by pairing a heavily patterned jacket (no shirt) with black pants.
After spending a week in NYC going to shows, it’s obvious that texture and animal print are in — even for men. But the bigger picture here is the event itself.
I’ve got to give it to Art Hearts Fashion. While I was there as VIP press, the event was open to the public, which is a huge deal. (Most NYFW events are invite-only.) Art Hearts is making NYFW attainable and giving international designers a chance to show their talent on the runway.
The list included Alexis Monsanto, Almee Couture, AnaOno, Alycesaundral, Aras Nancy, Belle D’Amour, Capristian, Chavelis Playhouse, Coral Castillo, Cross Colours, Danny Nguyen, Diyanni Yacht Club, Edher Gin, Giannina Azar, Haus of Harleen, Henri Costa, Idol Jose, Jose Zafra, Kene Kaya, Kenneth Barlis, Keziah, Lila Nikole, Lybethras, Maceoo, Maya, Michelle Espinoza, Mila Hoffman, Mister Triple X, Montecristi NYC, Pia Bolte, Raquelle Pedraza, Ricardo Seco, Richard Hallmarg, Sienna Li, Soid Studios, Starielle, Textiles D’La Rossa, Vizcarra, Wanda Beauchamp, Willow Bean Studio, and more.
