Like all sprawling metropolises, Los Angeles has changed. Walk though neighborhoods like Culver City and it’s right in your face, old movie studios overtaken by contemporary giants like Amazon and Apple. But there’s still a lot of the old City of Angels charm left, provided you know where to look.
Change can be good. But there’s a special quality about the kind of L.A. that originally attracted so many ambitious people. Maybe we just drank the Kool-Aid (or recently re-watched La La Land), but we’re feeling a bit nostalgic for the place.
Next time you’re in Los Angeles, but all means, dive head first into the newness of a shared reality experience at SoFi Stadium, a brunch at Destroyer, or the newest ride at Universal Studios. But travel back in time a bit at the following places too. You’ll get a taste of that old charm.
Culver Hotel
A teeming tower in a vastly changed hood, the Culver Hotel was built a century ago as a beacon to bring film and dreamers to a different part of Hollywood. The neighborhood went on to host so major studios (MGM) and be ground zero for filming some of the most iconic movies ever. Turns out, many actors would have stay at the Culver, distinguished guests like the cast of Wizard of Oz. The hotel hasn’t changed much in 100 years and we mean that as a compliment. It’s old Hollywood chic is the best manner, from the suede furniture and subtle glitz to Martini-drinking celebrities and jazz bands and speakeasies bustling near the lobby on weekends.
The rooms are a feast for the eyes, with little accents here and there and a slew of cool old photos. Set in a Flatiron building, the geometry is impressive. Have a relaxing morning in your room, mosey over to Baldwin Hills Scenic Overlook for a panorama of the city, and return for a meal on the patio at the hotel’s bar and restaurant.
Griffith Park
Honor your inner James Dean at this iconic hilltop landmark. The park is vast and worth exploring, fit with trails and bike paths. But the main attraction is the Observatory, a spectacular building full of exhibits and opportunities to view actual stars (not celebrities). One of the largest city parks in the nation, it’s home to a zoo, museums, the Hollywood sign, and more.
Universal Studios
While much of Universal Studios has gone screen-centric, you can still find some of that golden age wonder. The best bet is the studio tour, which still includes bits from films like Psycho, Earthquake, and Jaws. Newer attractions like Mario World and the Jurassic Park ride are very much worth your time, but don’t miss out on the chance to see some of those original sets and take in all of the nostalgic banter from the studio tour leader.
Pann’s Restaurant
Even if you haven’t been to Pann’s, you probably know it from movies like Pulp Fiction. Open daily pretty much since the late 50s, this is Americana cuisine in its finest form. Grab a coffee, order a hearty breakfast, and get to work on that screenplay you’ve been mulling over in your mind for years.
Queen Mary
Technically a bit south in Long Beach, the Queen Mary is a historic ship you can board and daydream on. Visitors can board the ship and peruse shops, grab a Sunday brunch, or even stay overnight as it’s part hotel now. The massive ship debuted in the 1930s and retired from ocean travel in the late 60s. It remains a sight to behold, Titanic-esque. In its heyday, the ship sported a pair of cocktail bars and swimming pools, among other relatively high-end amenities.
Bradbury Building
The Bradbury Building is a model citizen in the late-19th Century architecture category. Surprisingly, it was constructed by someone with little to no experience in the craft. That’s to take nothing away from the elaborate iron work, impressive atrium, and remarkable build of this handsome building. If you’re in downtown L.A., also check out the Biltmore Hotel, L.A. Athletic Club, and Union Station, even if just for a gander.
Tiki-Ti
At it since 1961, Tiki-Ti is L.A.’s wonderful and timeless tiki treasure. Like any of the best tiki bars, this one offers you the chance to imagine you’re on a tropical island, or perhaps a movie star ducking away from the paparazzi for a moment. A lot of establishments on Sunset Boulevard have come and gone but this watering hole has deep roots and refuses to let go.
Of course, there’s a lot more in this vein in and around L.A. Take the historic tours, patronize the old family restaurants, and talk up the elders for tips. Dine at Muso and Frank, mill around Elysian Park, and visit La Brea Tar Pits.
Here’s a handy and decidedly more contemporary L.A. guide for reference.
