I took my surfboard under my arm and began the walk to the waves. After exiting the grounds of the Gilded Iguana Surf Hotel, I crossed the main drag of Nosara, Costa Rica — a hardened dirt and gravel surface that denoted the town’s rustic nature. Up ahead, the jungle-like trees of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional formed a tunnel as the road led me to Playa Guiones, where the surf awaited.
I was on a surf escape in Nosara, Costa Rica, with the Gilded Iguana Surf Hotel as my headquarters. As I discovered, the country isn’t just another ocean destination — it’s a different way of life. Here’s how the story unfolded.
Nosara and the spirit of Pura Vida
As the van drove out of Liberia International Airport, I took in a country still taking shape. Construction equipment frequently lined the roads, alongside motorcycle dealers, quaint yet worn houses, and open meadows filled with Zebu cattle, their white coats contrasting against the lush green grass. The surroundings were disorganized yet charming, like a newly discovered beach town still being developed.
Nosara was like a private surf village: quiet, slow, and friendly. Like the country’s well-known sloths, life crawled by inch by inch. Local businesses lined the main drag, including surf shops, bike dealers, and restaurants.
The term “Pura Vida” (meaning “Pure Life”) refers to the pure, simple way of life found in Costa Rica. But is it true? As I spent day after day among the people, among the jungles and surf breaks, I found it refreshingly true. In Nosara, there was no materialism, no competition for who had the fanciest car or the biggest house.
I asked local surfer/photographer/musician Alejandro Sauter Morales his definition of Pura Vida. He said: “Pura Vida is basically positive energy, positive vibes, good feeling, good nature. It can and is used in many different ways. I think the whole expression is filled by nature, probably because of Costa Rica being so full of nature and living creatures…the expression connotes pure life…like the essence of life is good in its own nature….so if you are like that too, you are Pura Vida.”
Staying at the Gilded Iguana
In the middle of Nosara, set back from the main drag, a luxury outpost awaited: The Gilded Iguana Surf Hotel. Walking onto the grounds, an open-air front desk and restaurant greeted me, the surrounding buildings hugged by a jungle, and palm-covered rooftops evoked a rustic, coastal spirit. Staff members offered concierge-like service, with a sincere interest in my trip.
My room was a quiet, cool refuge in the jungle. Upon entering, dark gray stone tiles greeted me, surf-inspired photography and artwork lined the walls, and natural light seeped in from the back patio. There, an open-air shower awaited, and I’d often sit in a lounge chair, write poetry, or read. Now and then, a Coati would walk along a fence, its easy, fluid movements like a skilled surfer.
I’d walk through the courtyard, by the pool, with Bob Marley singing “No Woman, No Cry”, and be greeted with a friendly “hola” on the way to the surf. Being in a developing country can be intimidating, yet the hotel made me feel at home, safe, and welcome.
Veronica Monge, Chief Financial Officer at the Gilded Iguana shared: “Well, for us, it’s very important for visitors to have the knowledge that Nosara is a reserve or a refuge. It is a very wellness-oriented place. Our hotel is more about adventure and healthy foods.”
Surfing the waves of Playa Guiones and Playa Pelada
Surfing is my greatest passion. Ever since I first rocketed down a wave in the Atlantic Ocean, I’ve never felt a sensation so exhilarating. The Gilded Iguana was happy to oblige, its Surf Club awaiting with a broad selection of boards, and local instructors ready to help.
The club was halfway between the hotel and Playa Guiones, with a private entrance that led to a courtyard, couches, and board shacks. There, I met my instructor, Aldair, before walking through the jungle to the beach.
Though I’ve surfed a lot, I’m far from an expert, and Aldair coached me on paddling, balance, turning, and more. Little nuances, like weighting the board as I turned, tuned me in on the finer points of progression. That first day, I felt the ocean’s energy underneath, after missing it for so long, and the special feeling of it carrying me to shore.
The second day was even better. We took a short van ride to Playa Pelada, a more secluded break with more powerful surf, and a rock outcropping towering alongside. With barely anyone in sight, endless coast north and south, we caught waves in the cobalt water.
Not only could I keep my board by the hotel’s front desk, but I could also exchange it for something different whenever I liked. My favorite surfboard company is Channel Islands (supplier to numerous world champions), and the club has numerous models to choose from. I went with a cruiser model, the “Water Hog.”
The Surf Club Manager, Jordan Lopez, commented: “It’s really consistent (Playa Guiones); we have waves every single day. It’s not like there’s going to be a day that you get to the beach, and it’s not surfable.”
“What we are trying to do is strive to set our equipment for the type of guest we have and also the type of wave we have. So we work directly with Channel Islands, which is one of the top brands around the world.”
The flavors of Nosara
Each morning, I take a seat along the edge of the Gilded Iguana’s restaurant, in the open air, listen to birds sing in the palm trees, and enjoy its “Costa Rican fusion cuisine.” Besides coffee and water, I’d feast on beans and rice, waffles and syrup, fresh fruit, prosciutto, and more. A buffet-style setup let me fuel up and go.
For lunch or dinner, I’d order from a menu full of chef-driven, coastal-inspired recipes. The casádos were pure surfing food, with fresh fish, beans and rice, greens, and a sweet plantain. Tuna tartare was a work of art, the pink flesh intermingled with avocado, fennel, Jamaican salt, and chili oil. The finest flavors came courtesy of seared tuna served with risotto and a basil-infused sauce, which melted in my mouth.
Veronica Monge commented: “There are really fresh greens, all the sauces are made from scratch. We carry lots of ceviche, lots of fresh fish. We do have the specials on a weekly basis that change every week, so people can experience something different.”
Across the street, at Go Juice, made-to-order creations included iced banana coffee, açaí bowls, and more. In the small, yellow shack, staff members whipped up creations as beautiful as they tasted.
Exploring the wildlife
Before entering the Reserva Biológica Nosara, my guide told me to look under a lampshade-like leaf formation. At first, I couldn’t see anything. Then, they appeared: a group of tent-making bats, curiously staring downward, with perked up ears and hog-like noses, and stripes reminiscent of a chipmunk. That was just the beginning.
With almost every step, my guide pointed out another intriguing bird or animal, or tree. According to him, 270 species of wildlife existed along the river. We watched a Roseate Spoonbill feed along the shore, covered in vibrant white and pink feathers, its platypus-like beak fishing the waters for shrimp. Hidden among leaves and rocks was a Common Pauraque, a nocturnal bird covered in gray, gold, and brown.
Further along, a crocodile silently floated along, and high up in a tree, a black-headed trogon flashed its orange belly. Then we traveled deep into the 300-year-old mangrove forests. Appearing like something in a sci-fi movie, the mangroves’ support roots grew outward, lending credence to the term “walking trees.”
Other animals and insects included a black-bellied whistling duck, a kinkajou, a turquoise-browed motmot, a Vaillant’s frog, and leaf-cutter ants. As the tour ended, a Golden Weaver Spider’s web glistened in the sun alongside the trail.
Costa Rica’s different way of life
In the lead-up to my trip, I focused on surfing. I trained my paddling muscles on an ergometer. I skateboarded at a park, turning through concrete bowls as if they were waves. But while the surfing was a highlight, it was Costa Rica’s lifestyle that changed my perspective. Pura Vida was real.
Some mornings, I’d walk to Playa Guiones, sit under a thatched shelter, and write haikus. Uncollared, stray dogs would wander about or lie there and stare at the ocean. Sparse beach goers, clearly free from pressure and concern, talked and took it all in. The focus was on the ocean, the surroundings, and the freedom.
