As the plane taxied to the gate in Aspen, I noticed dozens of private jets lining the runway — a clear signal of the town’s luxury reputation. But would I — a down-to-earth mountain enthusiast — be turned off by the upscale atmosphere?
To find out, I set out to explore Aspen-Snowmass, focusing on Snowmass, Aspen’s more laid-back sister town. My goal: to soak up the outdoors, connect with the community, and enjoy the local flavors. What I found surprised me and left me wanting more.
Welcome to Aspen Snowmass: Where adventure meets alpine elegance
Snowmass and Aspen lie just 14 miles apart, sharing access to four iconic ski resorts: Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk, and Snowmass. The towering Maroon Bells, some of the most photographed peaks in North America, rise over 14,000 feet nearby, reflecting in the calm waters of Maroon Lake.
While Aspen leans upscale, Snowmass is more casual and community-centered. As Sara Stookey Sanchez of Snowmass Tourism put it:
“We’re a go-out-and-do destination. Aspen has the nightlife and culture — you want to dress up to go out. Whereas in Snowmass, you can get away with athleisure.”
Maroon Bells and mountain bikes: Chasing adventure in Snowmass
Racing the Sky on the Rim Trail
My first adventure was the Rim Trail, a nine-mile route climbing 1,300 vertical feet above Snowmass. The trail began with a brush-lined climb, then opened up into a soft dirt path surrounded by trees and panoramic views.
At the ridge’s high point — a volcanic-looking rim — the trail curved downward. The descent followed, with more twisty, runnable trails, and mountain bikers passing now and then. Running almost felt like mountain biking, as I followed turns and berms on the way into town.
Elk Camp after hours: Music, mountains, and a coaster ride to remember
That evening, I took the gondola up to Elk Camp for “Sunset Tuesday.” The scene was peak mountain town: families chatting, kids running through fields, and mountain bikes scattered like toys. “Groovin’” by The Rascals played in the background.
Then came the alpine coaster. Unlike traditional rollercoasters, I controlled my own speed using lever brakes, gliding through a forest of aspens. The ride was equal parts peaceful and thrilling.
Downhill dreams: A full-throttle day at Snowmass Bike Park
Snowmass Bike Park is a downhill dream, offering 25 miles of trails rising nearly 3,000 vertical feet. Four Mountain Sports set me up with high-end gear, including a Santa Cruz Nomad bike and protective armor.
My guide, Erik Obermeyer, coached me on balance, cornering, and pedal position. Before long, I could flow and roll through the trails (my favorite trail was “French Press”), turning challenging sections into something to look forward to. Riding at Snowmass Bike Park brought back the joy of cycling.
Where the West lives on: Experiencing the Snowmass Rodeo
In today’s world, sometimes it feels like there’s no time to stop, come together as a community, and enjoy life. But that’s exactly what I felt at the Snowmass Rodeo. It was a scene reminiscent of the Kentucky Derby, but instead of fancy hats and mint juleps, it was cowboy couture and cold beer.
Willie Nelson’s “My Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys” drawled through the loudspeakers. A series of horses, their riders carrying flags, lined up in the middle of the footing. A female rider circled the arena, carrying a giant American flag that waved in the wind. After the national anthem, the announcer led the attendees in a “cowboy prayer.”
I watched competitors chase and rope calves, children hang on as they rode sheep, fearless cowboys ride bucking horses, and focused cowgirls barrel race.
Nature’s canvas: The color and calm of the Maroon Bells
I couldn’t pass up the chance to see the Maroon Bells, a series of bell-shaped, wine-colored mountains rising 14,000+ feet. Blazing Adventures took me there in a lifted, souped-up Jeep Wrangler, and my guide, Branden, shared interesting details of the ecosystem, like the fact that a group of Aspen trees is considered a single organism, joined by their shared root system.
Before long, we arrived at Maroon Lake, with the Maroon Bells looming above. Their profile was reminiscent of dragon teeth, cutting into the sky and appearing unscalable (people do climb them).
We took a nearly two-mile hike around the lake and through aspen forests before continuing our Jeep journey to Ashcroft, a deserted mining town that oozed mystery. After prospectors Charles B. Culver and W.F. Coxhead discovered silver ore in 1880, the town boomed for a time, rising to 1,500 residents and 45 businesses by 1882. Eventually, the mines turned out to be shallow surface deposits, and many left for Aspen by 1883. By 1912, fewer than 50 people lived there.
Visiting a deserted town changed my perspective on life back then, and on life today. As I walked inside the weathered structures, some around 20 x 20 feet, I could barely imagine surviving the Rocky Mountain winter.
Aspen: Where glamour meets genuine mountain spirit
Though Aspen is known for glitz and glamour, I discovered a place with dual personalities. An old, multi-colored hippie-looking retail store appeared, promising “Aspen’s Most Unique Retail Experience.” I could feel the town’s authentic mountain roots shining through.
Then I’d pass upscale restaurants, like noted sushi spot Matsuhita, or see a Dior boutique on a corner. A new Range Rover would round a corner, but then there’d be a classic, rusty Ford pickup parked on the street. On the town’s south side, Aspen Mountain Ski Resort rose into the clouds.
The Aspen Art Museum offered an intriguing building covered with a rusty latticework reminiscent of an apple pie. Admission was free. The top-floor cafe had an open view of the ski resort, while the exhibits below featured the work of Sherrie Levine, which I found visually interesting and thought-provoking. One photograph showed the strain and worry of a man wearing overalls, while an abstract painting of a cat displayed raw creativity.
For a bit of respite, visit the Hotel Jerome, where the interior is like a curated museum of the American West. It’s a fantastic place to order a mocktail or cocktail and cool down from the high-altitude heat.
Luxury with a down-to-earth vibe: The Viceroy experience
Back in Snowmass, I stayed at the Viceroy, a five-star resort with a friendly, unpretentious vibe. My room in “The Cirque” building featured wood paneling, stone accents, and a panoramic-like view of Snowmass Mountain. In the morning, I’d watch the sun rise. At night, I’d lie in bed, watch the electric shade descend, and see the lights of the village.
Katie de Besche, Director of Sales, described the Viceroy’s approach:
“We definitely want to extend five-star service, but in a very friendly and approachable atmosphere — where you feel like you can come down and enjoy time by the pool or a drink at the bar in jeans or dressed up in your fancy attire for weddings.”
One standout feature? The on-demand shuttle service. A quick call to the front desk got me anywhere I needed to go in town.
A culinary journey: Oysters, burgers, and South American flavors
Food was a constant highlight in Snowmass. At Elk Camp, I devoured their Signature Bacon Cheeseburger: two grass-fed patties topped with candied bacon, roasted garlic caramelized marmalade, and boursin cheese — all while Creedence Clearwater Revival played in the background.
For a more coastal experience, I headed to Rock Island Oyster Bar, where I tried East and West Coast oysters on the patio. The diver scallops with corn succotash and citrus beurre blanc were the perfect pairing of land and sea.
Owner-chef Jake Burkhardt said: “We’re a very farm-driven concept at both our properties. We really want to highlight the best seafood available on the market here in a mountain environment, and also tie that into mountain fare.”
Then came Toro, where Chef Edgar Hernandez Lopez’s Latin-Asian fusion menu blew me away. A beet root salad came plated like artwork, followed by a miso-marinated lobster sushi roll, and a grilled red snapper with heirloom carrots and chayote slaw. Dessert? Dulce de leche churros dipped in caramel and chocolate — the perfect sweet sendoff.
Chef Edgar Hernandez Lopez, from Heroica Veracruz, Mexico, told me: “We are playing with Argentine or Peruvian flavors, Mexican flavors, and then we twist it a bit with some Asian flavors.”
Why I’ll be back
When I travel, a single element doesn’t define the experience. It was Snowmass, Colorado’s combination of adventure, luxury, and community that made it such an appealing destination.
