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How to trim a beard the right way — from stubble to full-on lumberjack

Choose the right beard, get the right tools, and master these techniques for a great look

Beard trimming tools
Shutterstock

At first glance, how to trim a beard seems like an easy problem to solve. I have first-hand experience with this, as my beard grew out evenly when I decided to sprout one. Even better, it came in with a reddish color that complemented my long face and Scotch-Irish ancestry on my father’s side. The basic color and uniformity made it easy to overlook the inevitable mistakes I made, so the toughest task was reminding myself to trim every other day. Otherwise, I would grow a small beard forest that was tough to handle.

For many men, though, it’s not so simple. That’s especially true for beard novices and for those men whose beards serve up some surprises. When that happens, trimming becomes a tougher task, so a brief tactical review is a solid idea.

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Choose the right beard type, then get a trimmer

Beard trimming
Shutterstock

The connection here might not seem obvious, but the beard type you choose often determines the level of success you’ll have when you go to trim it. Your beard needs to complement your face and key features, and you should know the look you’re aiming for.

It’s easy to make mistakes, though, which is why you need the protection that a basic electric trimmer provides.

“One of the most common mistakes we see with short beards is improper trimming,” says Spencer Bryce, one of the founders of Live Bearded. “We see this all the time. With a short beard, your trimmer guards are your best friend. They’re gonna give you the exact length and look you desire.”

That length and look are your foundation. If it’s a good facial match that makes you look your best, and you protect your beard with a solid trimmer setting, you’ll be able to trim with confidence. If your beard type doesn’t work, though, trimming could easily become an ongoing exercise in frustration.

Assemble the right tools for the job

Beard trimming
Shutterstock

Regardless of the beard type you choose, you’ll need trimmers and other grooming tools. The good news is that there are plenty of quality items available in both categories, so you’ll definitely have choices. Make sure you start with that trimmer, though. It’s an excellent tool for stubble beards, especially if you decide to grow them out while keeping your beard short.

For more elaborate beards, you’ll need to fill out your tool kit with a pair of scissors specifically designed for beard trimming, along with a comb that’s also designed for trimming. If you’re going big with your beard — which many men are these days — you’ll need a beard brush as well. To see what you’re doing and get the level of precision you’re after, a good three-way mirror is essential.

Beard care products are important, too. If you’re growing out a stubble beard, you’ll need beard balms or oils to soothe your skin if you start to experience irritation. The same is true if you’re growing out a light beard, or you choose a particular style that leaves parts of your face unshaved. You’ll still be shaving parts of your face, and you may experience neckline irritation as well when you go to do this.

Trimming a light, short beard

A man getting his beard trimmed at the barber
cottonbro studio / Pexels

One of the easiest ways to simplify beard trimming is to start with the beard that comes with the lowest level of ongoing maintenance — the stubble beard.

Use the trimmer guards initially, and when you’ve mastered the basic technique, you can switch to a specific setting.  You’ll still need to moisturize to prevent itch and irritation, and you’ll need to shave down around your neckline to get a nice clean look. If you decide to graduate to a thicker stubble, you can adjust the setting to make sure your look stays consistent.

As you do, make sure you establish a specific trimming schedule. Set a specific length as you’re growing out your beard, as this will help you clarify your goals when you go to trim. Make sure you pay attention to your neckline, and you might want to keep those scissors handy just in case you grow out a stray hair here and there.

Medium-length beards present a different challenge

Bearded man in bright colored jacket
Courtesy of Y.Chroma / Y.Chroma

With medium beards, trimming gets a lot more interesting. This is where you can start to shape your beard, and as your trimming techniques improve, you’ll be able to add different looks for variety.

You can still use your electric trimmer, though. It’s a great tool for fading your beard from your sideburns down to your jaw. Scissors will start to enter the trimming equation as you do this, so make sure you choose a specific length for your medium beard, and don’t forget to exfoliate to prevent ingrown hairs.

You’ll also need to do a more extensive trim if you decide to grow out your medium beard. That full trim may need to occur once a week, or maybe bimonthly, depending on the look you choose.  Don’t forget to use scissors to help keep the area around your mouth clean, as that can ruin a good look.

Big beards mean you need skills and a plan

Viking beard
befree / Adobe Stock

If you decide to grow out your beard all the way and go big, this is where you’ll be doing less with your trimmer. You’ll need to get better with your scissors, and that beard comb you bought will come into play, too. You’ll also have to use your scissors to eliminate stray hairs, and you can use the comb to train the shape of your beard, not to mention the direction it takes as you grow it out.

Products become more important with big beards as well. This type of beard requires hydration and exfoliation to maintain skin health and prevent ingrown hairs, so you’ll need to explore the world of balms and oils to find the right combination. Add a boar bristle brush to the equation if you’re going really long, and use that comb to prevent tangles and snarls. You can even add a dryer while brushing your beard to shape it, but make sure to use a low heat setting when doing so.

Finally, don’t forget about cleanliness. You won’t need to wash your big beard every day, as this isn’t a great plan for your skin. But you will need to set up a regular schedule. It’s part of the drill when you grow out a big beard, but the compliments you get if you nail the perfect look will make it all worthwhile and then some.

Bob McCullough is a freelance author and journalist who has published dozens of novellas and novels, and his journalism has… Read Full Bio
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