Skincare trends come and…keep coming. Some, like a focus on hyaluronic acid, were hits with even the most discerning dermatologists. Others, like black seed oil, warrant more than skin-deep research before you one-click buy.
Healthy skincare routines full of nourishing ingredients are an investment in yourself. However, it’s entirely possible to break the bank, especially if you make a habit of following the advice of every influencer with glowing skin (and the affiliate links in the caption). One of the latest skincare trends to break the algorithm is growth factor.
Growth factors are proteins made in the body that signal the cells to regenerate, repair, and produce components such as collagen and elastin,” said Dr. Jeffrey Lee, MD, a double board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of JL Plastic Surgery in Boston. “They actively do all the things that start to slow down during the aging process.”
Is it worth adding growth factor to your regimen? Here’s what experts say about growth factors and skincare.
What are growth factors?
Growth factors are proteins in the body and messengers that are vital to your skin and overall health.
“They help regulate cell growth, repair, and regeneration, and play a central role in wound healing and tissue maintenance,” said Stephen M. Bracci of Verve Medical Cosmetics. “They are present throughout the body, including in platelets, skin cells, and fat tissue. In aesthetic and regenerative medicine, they are used to stimulate collagen, improve tissue quality, and support the repair of skin and hair.”
Much of the buzz around growth hormone centers on products you can purchase, like serums. Yet Bracci says the most direct way to use a growth factor in skincare involves a more complicated process than simply applying a dime-sized glob of serum to your face.
“At present, PRP (platelet-rich plasma) and PRF (platelet-rich fibrin) are still the most direct and clinically supported ways to use growth factors for skin and hair,” Bracci said. “These treatments rely on a patient’s own blood, concentrating the platelets that naturally store growth factors and then returning them to targeted areas through medial injections.”
After the blood draw, experts spin the tube in a centrifuge to concentrate platelets and growth factors. Then, the concentration becomes injectable for the skin (or scalp, if haircare is a goal).
“This approach avoids the barrier function of the surface of the skin and remains one of the more predictable methods for delivering growth factors in aesthetic practice,” Bracci said. “There are also growth factor ingredients produced outside the body (exogenously) and used in topical products. These are not currently approved for injection in standard medical care.”
Paging TikTok? The topicals are the buzzy trend on social. Bracci said common categories of exogenous growth factors are:
- Human-derived growth factors (usually produced in cell culture to mimic natural signaling, but restricted to topical use)
- Plant-based or synthetic growth factor-like peptides, which Bracci said are generally more stable and easier to standardize, but may not have the same biological strength.
Do growth factors work in skincare?
There’s actually evidence supporting the use of growth factors in skincare.
“We have accumulated a substantial amount of evidence demonstrating that growth factors are beneficial in skincare, particularly for improving photodamage, fine and coarse wrinkles, and overall skin quality,” said Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD, Ph.D., a dermatologist with Dermatology Circle. “Clinical studies have shown significant improvements from baseline in coarse lines and wrinkles, including the perioral area by week 12 and the periocular and cheek areas by weeks 6 and 12.”
However, Bracci said topicals lack the same evidence.
Plus, quality matters for topical growth factor skincare products.
“Sourcing and formulas matter because the biological activity, stability, and safety profile of growth factors depend on how they are derived and formulated,” Dr. Kazlouskaya said.
What are the disadvantages of growth factors?
Even well-sourced growth factors have pitfalls for your skin and wallet.
- Cost. Whether you opt for in-office or OTC solutions, growth factor treatments aren’t free.”Growth factor-based treatments can be expensive, especially when used in ways that may not give the strongest return,” Bracci said. “Topical growth factor products often carry a premium price while their long-term cosmetic benefit remains understudied.”
- Delivery. Efficacy depends in part on whether the growth factors hit their mark.”Even potent growth factors do little if they do not reach their intended target,” Bracci said. “Injected PRP or PRF into skin or scalp generally achieves more reliable biological activity than topical application, even when combined with microneedling.”
- Safety. The safety of topcal growth factor products remains a hot-button issue. “Products containing growth factors or similar molecules that are not tightly regulated can raise safety questions,” Bracci said. “There is also a theoretical concern about excessive stimulation contributing to irritation or inflammation, a question that applies more to externally sourced growth factors than to those derived from a patient’s own blood.”
“My recommendation is that growth factors should be only added to your skincare lineup if you already have all the other proven active ingredients, such as retinols/vitamin A, vitamin C, peptides, and sunscreen,” Dr. Lee said.
Tips for using growth factor
Ready to add growth factor to your skincare routine? Try these top tips.
- Get the basics. Dr. Lee said it’s easy to add growth factor to your routine, but lay a foundation first. “You should always have some guidance from a healthcare professional and use medical-grade skincare lines,” Dr. Lee said. “Before starting a growth factor, I always recommend making sure you have a good cleanser, moisturizer, vitamin A/retinol, vitamin C, and sunscreen.”
- Pick your products. Dr. Kazlouskaya said she prefers products from reliable, reputable companies. “Two growth factor–based products I frequently recommend are SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum and PCA SKIN Pro Max Age Renewal Anti-Aging Serum,” Dr. Kazlouskaya said.
- Use it right. How and when you use a growth factor product matters. “Growth factor serums are usually lightweight formulations and can be applied once or twice daily on clean skin,” Dr. Kazlouskaya said. “In the morning, they can be followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen. In the evening, a moisturizer alone is sufficient.”
Takeaway
Your body produces growth factors, proteins that tell cells to regenerate, repair, and make collagen and elastin. Growth factor treatments are also possible, and people swear by them to reduce signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. In-office treatments derive injectable concentrations from a process using a person’s blood. Growth factor products are also available in topical form. There’s emerging data supporting their use, but safety and efficacy remain questions. If you’re interested in using a growth factor product or having an office treatment done, talk to your care team. Research Brands for safety and liability.
