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The Highball is having a serious moment

A whiskey drink returns to center stage

Whiskey Highball
OurWhisky Foundation / Unsplash

If you’ve been to a good cocktail bar lately you may have noticed that the Highball is buzzing. There’s nothing new about the drink, but thanks a renewed interest in Japanese culture (the omakase takeover, whisky, etc.) and minimalist drinks that deliver maximum flavor, the whiskey drink feels new again. In fact, it might be the very best era yet for the cocktail.

At bars all over the land, Highball cocktail recipes are basking in the spotlight. Folks are exploring whiskies from afar, interested in cocktails made with genuine care, and enjoying stretching drinks out a bit (as in treating that finger or two of a spirit to some tonic and citrus).

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Sarah Boliek is the restaurant manager at Takibi, a Japanese bar and restaurant in Portland. The spot specializes in seasonal cocktails, often in Highball form. Japanese for “bonfire,” the place was founded by Japanese outdoor lifestyle brand Snowpeak.

Her personal favorite version of the drink is a classic Toki Highball with a grapefruit twist. A close second is a Yuzu Highball. At Takibi this spring, you can even get an Umeboshi Highball (made from a wildly-flavorful Japanese pickle).

“Highballs are Japanese in every aspect of the drink,” Boliek says. “In Japanese culture they prioritize seasonality, purity, and attention to detail.”

But what makes a Highball and Highball?

Crucial Highball traits

“Highballs are precise in the exact ratio of whisky to water,” Boliek continues. “The ice is added gently to preserve the carbonation and even the glass is held at an angle when pouring the soda water.”

The exact coldness of the drink is also imperative. “The temperature of the drink is crucial,” she says. “The soda water should be near freezing to preserve the carbonation. If it’s not cold enough, the gas escapes faster, resulting in a flat drink. We want an ice-cold, refreshing, and crisp highball.”

At Takibi, bartenders work with a Suntory Toki Highball machine, which serves up the drinks at near-freezing temperatures.

Pair that Highball up

Boliek says you really can’t go wrong with a good Highball food pairing, but some things work better than others. “Fatty, friend, salty foods are the best pairing,” she says. That works out nicely as the Highball happens to be a great nightcap, one that works oh so well with late night snacks.

“The clean, crispness of a highball helps to cut through those rich umami dishes, so I would order a highball to go with some karaage or a tempura dish,” she says.

What’s next for the classic cocktail? Perhaps more of the same, and that’s not a bad thing. “I don’t know if I would say there is a next step,” admits Boliek. “A highball has only two ingredients, the steps in making the drink are precise and intentional, and the execution is exactly how it should be. I believe in traditional Japanese technique, they have perfected this cocktail.”

Takibi was kind enough to offer their Highball recipe, below. Now, at the restaurant, they take advantage of a Highball machine, tilting the glass at a 45-degree angle like you might a draft pour of craft beer. But you can get close to that kind of precision at home. As Bokiel says, use tongs for your ice and make sure that lemon twist gets some citrus on both the drink itself and the rim of the glass.

Toki Highball

Nice and easy, that’s the name of the game with the Takibi take on the classic. But remember to be meticulous with your ice prep and portions and select fresh citrus for the win.

Ingredients:

  • 1 3/4 ounces Suntory Toki Whisky
  • Soda water 
  • Lemon twist

Method:

  1. Add whisky to Highball glass filled with fresh ice.
  2. Top with chilled soda water and garnish with a lemon twist.

Where else can you find a great Highball cocktail? In cities all over the U.S. Some of our favorite bars whipping them up at the moment include Hello Hello Bar in NYC, where they’re making a riff that includes plum liqueur, St. Germain, raspberry lavender syrup, and even saline solution. Or, check out the version at Valerie, also in the Big Apple, which is made with Campari and orange juice.

Kumiko in Chicago is an award-winning bar with a great Highball selection. As is Bar Jackalope in Los Angeles. If you happen to be in San Francisco, be sure to check out Pacific Cocktail Haven. But do make some up at home, playing around with the spirit base (whiskey is the classic way to go but you can go with an aperitif for something lighter or a different spirit altogether like gin). It’s one of the most fun drinks to work on your home bartending pizazz, as the best versions are all about dialed-in ratios and a beautiful look in the glass.

Need some more inspiration? Check out our Japanese cuisine guide and some of our favorite Japanese cocktails. Here’s to good food and drink.

Mark Stock
Mark Stock is a writer from Portland, Oregon. He fell into wine during the Recession and has been fixated on the stuff since…
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