American Wagyu beef expert Sheila Patinkin, founder and owner of Vermont Wagyu, says the world of American Wagyu can be confusing for most Americans. Patinkin, owner of one of only a handful of Fullblood Wagyu breeders who sell direct to consumers, breaks down the most common misconceptions surrounding American Wagyu beef and what you need to know when shopping for Wagyu.
Patinkin is the former President of the Board of the American Wagyu Association and was asked to spearhead the American Wagyu Association’s (AWA) Certified Wagyu Committee in 2021. Patinkin’s mission was to create a USDA-approved quality and authenticity program that would give consumers certainty about the American Wagyu beef they were eating. Here’s what she wants consumers to know.
About American Wagyu
“A small group of 100% Wagyu cattle was first brought to the US in the 1990s (before the Japanese discontinued all exports of Wagyu cattle), and founded the majority of the herd for all Wagyu in America and the rest of the non-Japanese world,” says Patinkin.
Yet, the terms Wagyu, American Wagyu, and Kobe Beef require additional clarification, as most consumers do not understand the differences between these terms. Patinkin describes American Wagyu as not Kobe Beef, which refers to a subset of Wagyu beef raised solely in Japan.
In the U.S., “American Wagyu” is a broadly accepted term used to describe cattle born and raised domestically, with direct or indirect lineage that traces back to the original Japanese Wagyu imported to establish the U.S. herd. At the American Wagyu Association, our more exacting definition requires DNA parent verification and registration with our organization. There are also non-DNA USDA-accepted claims of Wagyu parentage. However, these are not part of our Authentic Wagyu program.”
The rise of Wagyu Beef
Over the last few decades, American Wagyu has justifiably gained popularity, to the point where it is now ubiquitous on menus, in butcher shops, and retail stores. However, there is still some confusion surrounding how much authentic Wagyu is actually in American Wagyu. “The problem was first brought to consumers’ attention in a widely read 2014 Forbes article entitled, “Food’s Biggest Scam: The Great Kobe Beef Lie.”
During our discussion, I also asked Patinkin to weigh in on why she believes American Wagyu has become so popular in recent years. Her response: “Well, would you choose a high-quality non-Wagyu steak with 12% intramuscular fat, or a Fullblood Wagyu steak averaging 37% intramuscular fat—like those from Vermont Wagyu? We know that in blind tastings, the steak with the higher IMF will be strongly preferred.”
“Now, when a fast food chain says it’s selling a Wagyu burger, it’s doubtful it’s from Fullblood Wagyu meat. It may still be great in comparison to their regular burger, however, it’s not what I’m craving and, naturally, my colleagues and I want the public to understand the difference,” she says.
The Authentic Wagyu USDA Process Verified Program
The Authentic Wagyu USDA Process Verified Program was born after the AWA realized that consumers needed greater transparency about what they were buying. “Whether the American Wagyu is Fullblood, Purebred, or Percentage Wagyu, both the American Wagyu Association’s new program guarantees traceability and above Prime quality”, helping to give consumers more confidence in their purchase.
Per the AWA, “These programs are designed to be accessible to all US Wagyu producers to provide a consistent, high-quality product; born and raised in the USA.” When shoppers see the “Authentic Wagyu” logo and accompanying USDA shield on a package of Wagyu beef, it means the meat has been genetically certified and tested for quality standards. It is fully traceable, from farm to table.
“While Japan uses its A5 grading system to differentiate marbling levels in its Wagyu beef, the U.S. has relied on the USDA’s Prime, Choice, and Select categories to grade American Wagyu—until now. Wagyu beef often surpasses Prime, so my AWA colleague Pam Armstrong helped initiate a Herculean plan in 2019: pushing for a more precise grading system that would reach above the bar of entry-level Prime. The USDA then introduced three new upper Prime categories in 2024, allowing us to showcase our superior marbling properly. When you see “Authentic Wagyu” on a label, you are guaranteed that it’s well above the second category of Prime. No other Certified Beef Program can make that claim,” shares Patinkin.
Shopping for authentic American Wagyu
Having a deeper understanding of these certifications and marketing claims can help you make smarter choices when shopping for meat. “As a consumer, you have the power to ensure the authenticity of the American Wagyu you enjoy. Simply ask your butcher, supermarket, or restaurant if their beef is part of the American Wagyu Association’s Authentic Wagyu program. This small step not only guarantees you’re getting authentic American Wagyu, but also enhances your dining experience, making every bite even more delicious,” says Patinkin.
