When I think of the classic rugby shirt, I don’t think of the splash it’s made at Fashion Weeks in recent years. For me, it’s about matches at Twickenham, Six Nations season (the most wonderful time of the year), and how the rugger iconifies my own Transatlantic customs. I also think of the time my nephew gave me a shiner during our family’s annual Christmas rugby match, but that’s neither here nor there.
Still, I’m chuffed to see my relatively niche culture break containment every so often. If there’s one world that doesn’t need gatekeeping, it’s that of rugby. And while we, the rugger community, genuinely adore Ralph, Noah, and the other usual sartorial suspects, I want to spotlight some folk favorites. You don’t have to play or love the game to sport a rugby shirt, but mining from some culturally relevant options might give your outfit that trend-resistant IYKYK edge.
For Countryside Elegance: Schöffel Country Rugby Tops
When asked who my favorite royal is, my go-to response is, “Does Mike Tindall count?” The rugby legend who married The Princess Royal’s equestrian daughter, Zara, is known for his clean, laid-back countryside style, much of which is made up of Schöffel Country. Just as rugby culture centers on balancing mannerly class with brute strength, the Porthallow Shirt combines refined lines with rugged, strapping twill. This design exemplifies how rugby jerseys can be both markedly casual and sophisticated.
Wear it with: A flat cap and Norfolk jacket. Rugby shirts are famously layerable, and the bucolic and slightly textured hues of the Schöffel Country Shirt pair naturally with any piece of pastoral attire.
The Official Partner: Castore Retro Kit Shirt
As I write this, England is predictably overpowering Wales on my television screen. I’d be remiss not to spotlight Castore, the current official kit-maker for England Rugby. The rugger as we know it today, with its long-sleeved cotton constitution and contrast placket, isn’t what contemporary athletes wear on the field. So while Castore engineers modern technical rugby tops ideal for the gym, they also make a classic rugby shirt for those of us who didn’t get scouted by Clive Martin. It features a modern design language, including the stylish and stately rose crest, and that stark St. George colorway.
Wear it with: A Gilbert rugby ball and a pint of Guinness. I’m kidding. Go full theme and wear this jersey with the Breitling Six Nations Rugby Chronomat Watch.
For a Modern Take on Vintage Prep: Le Alfré Cable-Knit Rugby Shirt
Growing up, I played all of the Northeastern American sports associated with Transatlanticism. So, naturally, I was delighted to find that Le Alfré incorporated the cable-knit composition of vintage tennis and cricket dress into the rugby shirt’s architecture. Rugbies don’t have to be evocative of retro prep, but if you do love that element of it, Le Alfré’s got you covered—from the pitch to the boat club.
Wear it with: Goodyear-welted loafers in brown suede and a timeless OCBD. The cable-knit build makes this shirt more akin to a jumper, allowing you to wear collared tops underneath it without looking like you’re channeling the early 2000s.
The (Unstuffy) Ivy Factor: J.Press Rugbies
American rugby was kept alive on Ivy League campuses in the face of football dominance. Undeniably, J.Press is the founding father of Ivy’s vestiary mores. The brand’s rugby catalogue visually represents where this Northeastern set works and plays: You’ll find triple stripes and single stripes, bold solids, university representation, and conscientious Made-in-USA options. J.Press creative director, Dr. Jack Carlson, has a knack for telling meaningful stories through clothes, allowing anyone of any background to enjoy and personalize components of Ivy style.
Wear it with: A cardigan and one of the brand’s charming handmade Oxford Pennant Totes. On cooler days, throw on a J.Press Made-in-England schoolboy muffler.
For Brand-Anonymous Fashion: Rugby Culture Polos
I love the stylishly anonymous aesthetic of Netherlands-based Rugby Culture. Its logo, ubiquitously simple, features goalpost icons, while the shirt line-up includes a design with the word “Rugby” across the chest, not unlike what Ralph Lauren does with the word “Polo.” When incorporated into streetwear, this approach looks more fashion-centric, and less like the non-committal gesture of wearing a hat that simply says “NFL” to an NFL game.
Wear it with: A too-cool-for-school pairing of jeans and low-profile sneakers.
Commonwealth Representation: Monilex 1988 Legacy Rugby
Like me, Monilex was born in 1988. Unlike me, it was born of two Canadian rugby legends, Monty Heald and Lexie Tynan. Monilex Legacy Rugby Shirts not only make you feel like an authentic old school rugby boy, but they’re made using vintage Japanese looms. Modern industrial looms simply can’t produce these unique textures. Moreover, the strong build and eight-ounce cotton are perfect for relaxing on the grass or getting into a scrum.
Wear it with: A dapper pair of chino shorts and your choice of slip-on shoes. I think a nice driving moc would elegantly capture the balance of practical and leisure.
The Future of Authentic Rugby Sartor: Old Novo
Mark my words, what Ralph Lauren did for polo shirts, Old Novo will do with the classic rugger.
Admittedly, few shirts from the edit above are made by dedicated rugby clothiers. J.Press represents Ivy culture, which rugby is associated with, while Castore makes technical rugby kits. However, neither is a rugby-specific lifestyle brand. Even more, unlike the game itself, none have a purely British manufacturing footprint. Clearly, there’s a gap in the market.
Enter Old Novo.
Just a quick gander through Old Novo’s socials makes it evident that founder Matt Dehaty has a meaningful relationship with rugby. He explores its history and breaks down the values of the game’s customs, on and off the field. Old Novo serves up shirts inspired by real reference points, mainly from the late 90s and aughts, when the professional rugby shirt started to evolve. I think this gives Dehaty an exciting range to mine and experiment from.
Between that and Mr. Dehaty’s industry expertise via Nike and Gymshark, these authentically-striped, 330 gsm rugby shirts honor us originals, while opening the door to rugby lifestyle universality.
Wear it with: Anything you want.
