The legendary Swiss manufacturer Favre Leuba has selected the prestigious stage of Geneva Watch Days 2025 to debut a landmark achievement: the Chief Skeleton. This gorgeous timepiece marks the brand’s first venture into the complex world of openworked watchmaking, a move that pays tribute to its storied, 288-year legacy while firmly establishing its position in the modern pantheon of skeletal excellence. The watch is an evolution of the iconic Chief collection, intricately engineered to reveal the beating heart of its mechanical soul while retaining the tool-watch DNA the brand is synonymous for. It is a bold statement, a sculptural masterpiece that bridges the gap between historic reverence and contemporary craftsmanship.
A dial of architectural and mechanical excellence
Favre Leuba’s watchmakers have performed a delicate balancing act with the Chief Skeleton, expertly skeletonizing the Manufacture Caliber FLS01 in the gold version and the Caliber FLS02 in the black version (both created in collaboration with AMT) to produce a captivating three-dimensional depth while ensuring the architectural integrity of the display by keeping it clear and easily legible. The satin-brushed chapter ring and applied, polished indexes function as a firm base for reading the time, while the openworked hands glide gracefully over a complex landscape of beveled bridges and finely adorned gears. Much attention has been paid in this model to detail, and the movement’s components feature polished anglage and perlage decoration that can be viewed from both the dial as well as the exhibition caseback. This skeletonization is not just for show, but for a purpose, celebrating the mechanical excellence involved in production.
A robust case honoring a revered legacy
The Chief Skeleton is housed in the collection’s signature 40mm stainless steel case, a design that is not only a mechanical marvel, but skillfully merges retro accents with modern elegance. The case is home to Favre Leuba’s distinctive notched bezel, a trademark of the collection that provides a unique visual identity. The alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces dance when exposed to the light, while the superb wrist presence ensures the watch feels important and professional as it is designed to be. With water-resistance up to 100 meters, the Chief Skeleton proves a skeleton watch can function just as well as a piece of art as a reliable timepiece.
A triumphant debut into the skeleton watch arena
With the Chief Skeleton, Favre Leuba has not merely created a new watch; it has made a powerful declaration of intent. This is a confident, accomplished, and beautifully executed timepiece that honors the brand’s storied past while embracing a bold, contemporary future. It proves that true horological innovation lies not in forgetting one’s history, but in reinterpreting it with vision, skill, and uncompromising elegance.
