Finding a slice of history in the modern, eclectic city of Portland isn’t always easy. While the Heathman Hotel and underground Shanghai tunnels offer old-world charm with a side of haunted lore, my social feeds are usually filled with the newest restaurants and cocktail bars springing up in the Rose City. Thankfully, McMenamins Edgefield bridges the gap. Guised as a hotel, the 72-acre destination is designed to preserve the past, bringing its architecture back to life with over 100 rehabbed guest rooms and endless onsite activities.
As the previous site of the Multnomah County Poor Farm, a pre-welfare labor exchange property for low-income residents, it seemingly has no business being such a luxurious respite. And yet, it’s the largest McMenamins property around, of which there are 56 in the Pacific Northwest. Edgefield stands out from the rest by showcasing the brand’s greatest hits, from cozy lodging to wine tasting to a plant-laden, year-round soaking pool.
I’m a new Oregon resident always pining for quick escapes, and I can assure you that this property hits the spot for local citydwellers in need of a 30-minute getaway. But it’s also a convenient side quest for out-of-towners, providing a taste of Oregon’s easy access to nature without the arduous car ride.
If this sounds like the right fit for you, a fair word of warning—it’s difficult to wrap your head around the spirit of McMenamins Edgefield, let alone the logistics, with so much going on within its boundaries. So I’ve crafted this guide to help you plan and navigate the property expertly, with a gentle prompt to allow yourself to get lost in a space that rewards wandering.
How a historic Oregon poor farm became one of Oregon’s most unusual resorts
We’ve all seen historic properties transform into modern accommodations, and to be perfectly honest, I often find their origin stories disjointed, if even present at all. That’s impossible with McMenamins Edgefield, where the property’s 115-year-old narrative is adorned on every inch of its walls.
I’m not talking about bronze plaques with stale reports and facts, but colorful, handpainted artwork, quotes, and embellishments crafted by dozens of local creators. As you walk through Edgefield’s main building, figures in portraits stare back at you, celestial ceilings envelop you, and handpainted decorative patterns snake along its electrical boxes and wooden beams. I tried to count them but quickly exhausted the idea—art is truly everywhere.
In stark contrast, the building’s previous life as the Multnomah County Poor Farm was all about utility, with modest rooms, sweeping food farms, and livestock cultivation. It’s easy to imagine its former aesthetic with historic photographs dotted throughout the halls. After its inaugural opening in 1911, the poor farm evolved into a county nursing home and was abandoned altogether in 1982.
Eight years later, brothers Mike and Brian McMenamin acquired the property, reopening its doors after just one year of revitalization. The Oregon-based brewers already had a reputation for transforming old buildings into creative brewpubs and hotels, helping to establish Portland’s flourishing craft beer scene. But Edgefield was destined to be something different — a resort that honored all things Oregonian — wild spaces, local craftsmanship, and an unconventional spirit known as the McMenamins Effect.
How to explore McMenamins Edgefield’s 74-acre property
Edgefield isn’t a base camp—it’s a destination. Don’t plan multiple side excursions, and instead, savor the brief yet beautiful drive from Portland, preferably along the forested curves of the Historic Columbia River Highway. Pack like you’re headed to a rustic retreat. My recommendations are a swimsuit, a pair of flip-flops, a few car snacks, and comfortable clothing for exploring the grounds.
One thing that all visitors should know is that while Edgefield provides resort-style accommodations, it also embraces rustic charm—wifi is scarce, and most guests use communal bathrooms—although I can attest that these aren’t your typical barren locker rooms. They’re private, spacious, and well designed. If you’re comfortable with these quirks, it’s laid-back luxury from here on out.
Once you arrive, resist the urge to map out every activity, although I suggest booking any services at the Ruby Spa and Black Rabbit Restaurant in advance. Your first line of order is to locate the main building, which houses the visitors’ office and three floors of accommodations. Check in, drop off your bags, and spend an hour wandering around this central hub to orient yourself—there’s a lot to take in.
From there, you can pick up one of the property maps or event calendars to embark on more specific activities. Don’t try to do them all, but rather select what feels most relevant for your energy level and tastes. Your personal adventure will depend on your group.
Families can take advantage of the onsite movie theater and interactive glassblowing studio. Couples may opt for a romantic soak in the saltwater pool after enjoying a craft beer flight at the Edgefield Brewery. My weekend visit was all about restoration, so I indulged in a signature Ruby Massage and sipped on local wines to drop into the property’s magic.
On-site amenities
Here are the main attractions nestled within Edgefield McMenamin’s grounds:
- Lodging: Over 100 spacious rooms with one-of-a-kind decor and artwork, most with shared bathroom access, while a few rooms offer private bathrooms
- Edgefield Distillery: A former stable transformed into a smart, modern tasting room with house-made rum, brandy, whiskey, and flights
- Brewery Tours: The Makers Tour takes guests behind the scenes and elaborates on the founders’ commitment to crafting Portlander-worthy pours
- Edgefield Pub Course and Little Course: Two par-3 golf courses for casual, easily walkable tee time
- Power Station Theater: An intimate movie theater with lively designs and rotating films
- Edgefield Concerts on the Lawn: An outdoor, full-scale venue, well-known for hosting major musicians in summer months
- Guided history tours: Laidback walking tours that connect dots between the property’s current offerings and rich past
- Glassblowing studio: A small artists’ space with live glassblowing demonstrations and handmade wares to purchase and bring home
- Eateries: Two full-service restaurants (Black Rabbit Restaurant & Bar and Power Station Pub) with additional casual options, including Little Red Shed, Jerry’s Ice House, and Lucky Staehly’s Pool Hall
- Scenic walking paths: Easy, pleasing strolls through sizeable gardens that grow the herbs and vegetables used in Edgefield’s kitchens
- Ruby’s Spa & Salon: A wellness hub with over 16 available services and a luxurious soaking pool, complimentary for those purchasing treatments and overnight guests
With so much to do, I recommend a two-night stay as a bare minimum, so you have at least one full day to connect with the property. However, Edgefield is also well-designed for a day trip. You can enjoy the saltwater soaking pool with a 90-minute pass for $50 or catch a concert on a warm summer evening, with no overnight stay or multi-hour commute required.
Why the Edgefield experience doesn’t end at checkout
Leaving Edgefield has a bittersweet tinge to it. You may feel like you’re driving home from summer camp right before trudging into school the next day after time on its whimsical grounds. But the beauty of the experience is that it doesn’t need to be encapsulated into a single visit. It’s only a 20 to 30-minute drive from Portland, after all.
There are two options when it comes to extending your experience: one is to enjoy a more leisurely visit and take several trips out. You can enjoy the property during different seasons (worth it to enjoy both spring blooms and fall foliage) and take time to focus on each amenity without the rush.
If you’re feeling more ambitious, do all you can in one concentrated stay, and move on to other McMenamins properties next time. As mentioned above, there are dozens to explore, strewn between Oregon and Washington, with many located in Portland proper. While few are as multifaceted as Edgefield, they are all uniquely special and provide interesting contrast to this flagship location.
Edgefield visitors can literally connect the dots between each establishment with the popular McMenamins Passport. This booklet is available for purchase at any affiliated property and serves as a scavenger hunt for visitors. Passholders can find stamps in unlikely corners of Edgefield and other McMenamins locations, designed to pull visitors deeper into their grounds.
These stamps unlock perks like food discounts and free movie tickets. If you get every stamp, you’re deemed a “Cosmic Tripster”, a status that unlocks hefty perks like free hotel stays and food and drink credits, and complimentary bragging rights.
Is McMenamins Edgefield worth the visit?
Edgefield only holds a small slice of magic that the Columbia River Gorge region offers. Spending time in its bounds means saying no to other highly esteemed destinations in the area, like the majestic Multnomah Falls and Mount Hood foothills. It also means turning down exceptional properties like Skamania Lodge, a destination I’m crazy about for its glamping-style treehouses.
The trade-off is real, but Edgefield stands out by rewarding visitors with Oregon’s unique history rather than obscuring it, integrating modern amenities with its cultural past. Edgefield is built by locals, made for locals, and offers a resort-style landing for out-of-town guests. It’s the trifecta for anyone seeking a meaningful travel experience over a touristy gimmick, with plenty of quirk that evokes down-to-earth charm.
As for me, I’m torn between a return to Edgefield or a visit to one of its many sister properties as the summer months near. Either way, I know I’ll be back for another saltwater soak and leisurely stroll through its gardens someday, as I’ve clearly caught the McMenamins bug. And next time I’ll bring friends along, whether it’s for a lively concert or a slower moment, because Edgefield is a secret that’s impossible to keep to myself.
