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Discovering the Christmas Spirit in Reykjavik

What to do, where to stay, and how to fully enjoy the holiday spirit in Reykjavik

Architecture, Building, Spire
The Manual

When thinking of holiday getaways, Iceland may not be the first place that comes to mind due to all of the deep snows, ice, and piercing wind of the season. However, after experiencing a magical trip to Reykjavik this December, I’m completely sold. There’s something about the dark winters, the twinkling lights, and the crisp arctic air that makes the Christmas spirit come alive in this gorgeous, walkable city that was actually named the safest city in the world for travelers. Here’s what it was like to enjoy the magic of Reykjavik. 

Getting there was pretty straightforward. Some airlines will fly straight into Reykjavik, but we flew into Keflavik International Airport. From there, you can take a quick bus to enjoy the famous Blue Lagoon, but we hopped on the Flybus straight to the city center. We considered getting a rental car, but decided against it. Everything was walkable (we brought crampons just in case, but it ended up being not icy at all), and every street was charming. 

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We checked into Center Hotels Grandi, which is right in the up-and-coming harbor district. With its modern vibe, beautiful Christmas decorations, and adorable orange hotel cat, we were so excited to do some jet-lag recovery. Fortunately, we were able to check in early (perks to traveling during the off-season) and we took a short nap before exploring the city. The biggest perk to this hotel is the gorgeous spa area, which we thought we’d only use a couple of times but ended up returning every single night.

Austurvöllur Christmas Market

Reykjavik’s Christmas markets are cozy rather than massive, which I actually preferred. There were no overwhelming crowds, but still plenty to see and do. The Austurvöllur Square was one of our favorite places to walk by. There were just a handful of wooden stalls selling warm drinks like glögg, which is Icelandic mulled wine, and crafts like paintings or jewelry, and a huge Christmas tree.

While the Christmas market itself didn’t have too many stalls, there were plenty of small shops in the nearby vicinity selling Icelandic crafts, sweaters, mittens, cards and books, souvenirs, and slippers. I couldn’t resist buying a small collection of the gorgeous postcards to journal with, and many of them were drawn or photographed by local artists. 

The real star though, was the light decorations. The square and the surrounding streets positively glowed with thousands of twinkling lights. From a huge lit-up cat sculpture to a service at the beautiful Hallgrimskirkja church, there’s so much to see. It was pure holiday magic, especially when we only got about four or five hours of daylight every day. One evening, while we were sipping glögg, we even saw the northern lights! That was completely unexpected since the forecast was completely cloudy for the entirety of our stay.

Ice Skating at Ingólfstorg Square

Aside from shopping, one of our favorite activities was ice skating at Ingólfstorg Square. This outdoor skating rink is a bit on the small side, but it’s plenty of fun. Surrounded by lights, carols, and right next to the Christmas Market stalls, the atmosphere was absolutely perfect. We rented skates for two for about $26, a total bargain for an hour or so of laughs and spins on the ice. I’m used to figure skating, but the lack of figure skates wasn’t a downer. Strapping on hockey skates for the first time was a bit nerve-wracking, but fortunately, the venue had a few plastic deer and seals that could be pushed around on the ice. 

If you work up a sweat, I highly recommend swinging by Gaeta Gelato for some of their licorice-flavored ice cream. As a half-Finn, I was super thrilled to see that Icelandic people also appreciate the salty-sweet flavor of licorice. If that’s not your thing, though, they also have more normal flavors like chocolate and vanilla, as well as some fruity ones like strawberry and kiwi.

Delicious Eats in Reykjavik

No trip to Iceland is complete without trying some classic Icelandic cuisine (we were not brave enough to try shark), and Reykjavik delivered some seriously scrumptious options. Our favorite dinner place was Messinn, where they served all kinds of traditional fare in sizzling skillets. We most enjoyed the plokkfiskur, which is a creamy mashed fish bake with cheese on top. 

Then, there’s Café Loki, which is right across from the Hallgrímskirkja church. Their lamb stew (labeled on the menu as meat soup) was rich and hearty, full of carrots, potatoes, and lamb. For an extra few kroner, I highly recommend getting the plate of Icelandic rye bread on the side. Slathered in butter, Icelandic rye bread was positively addicting. Pair it with a front-seat view of the iconic Hallgrímskirkja church, and you’ve got the perfect holiday meal. 

All in all, Reykjavik’s holiday season surprised me in the very best way. From walking their beautiful clean streets to enjoying the Christmas festivities, this trip was intimate, magical, and most importantly restful. If you’re craving something different this new year, pack your warm layers and go! You won’t regret it. Otherwise, check out other super Christmassy locations across the United States like Spokane’s Davenport Hotel.

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