I’ll be honest. If I weren’t a writer, there is no way in hell I could have landed a 7:15 Saturday night reservation at Cafe Charmant just a mere four weeks after its opening. The most recent jewel in the buzzy Catch Hospitality Group’s crown, the glitzy eatery is the newest IT restaurant to hit the downtown scene, so chalk it up to one of the perks of the job that I could walk in, order a drink, and be ushered to a corner table for two in under 10 minutes.
Though the state of making prime reservations in New York City may not come as a surprise to many, I’m still not able to reconcile with the current velvet rope of so many of this city’s restaurants. Sure, the 90s and early 2000’s had their Indochine, Moomba (if you remember that one, we need to grab a drink). The Waverly Inn, but for the most part, you could easily make a reservation or even walk in and wait for a table with a cocktail in hand at most popular establishments. And, let’s be honest, half the people weren’t even eating, if you know what I mean.
Yet, after Covid, and with the advent of social media, locals like me were forced to either pull strings to reserve or do the civilized thing: go for lunch. I’m still bitter that my monthly martini-and-people-watching outing at Bemelman’s Bar got nixed by the TikTok masses, but that’s a story for another day.
All this to beg the question: What makes Cafe Charmant so special that you’ll wait weeks refreshing DoorDash Reservations for an open time slot (OpenTable and Resy got the shaft on this one)? Other than the celebrity pedigree (the group’s other restaurants, Eighty Six and Or’esh, also have regular celeb sightings), it is attempting to take a slight turn from The Corner Store’s Vegas steakhouse vibe with a Taylor Swift hangover, positioning itself as the more sophisticated, Gallic-forward sibling to hit the scene. To do this, it’s leaning hard on Executive Chef Jake Tyler Brodsky’s global vision of a Riviera brasserie, as well as his impressive status as an Eleven Madison Park alum. And after my visit, I’d say it’s a superb strategy.
Resplendent in a yellow facade and certainly not clandestine with its neon sign illuminating Bleeker Street, you’ll have no problem locating Cafe Charmant. However, once you’re inside, things veer demure. After announcing ourselves to the hostess, we were offered to stand at the bar, which we now know to be more like the waiting room. Velvet curtains keep you from ogling the dining room, but this also gave us some time to check out our fellow patrons. I obviously did not get the memo on the women’s dress code of short skirts and high boots, but thankfully I’m comfortable with my choice to cover my knees. Welcome to the West Village.
Though I was tempted to go with the Provencal Dirty Martini as my first cocktail, I decided to swerve Italian and try the Black Pepper Negroni, which added tomato and black pepper-infused vermouth to the gin and Campari to give it a richer, spicier twang. Definitely an interesting take, though I think better suited to a cooler evening. Other highlights include a chamomile-spiked pear and Honey Martini, and two savory green drinks, a Cucumber Sour with white balsamic and tequila-based Garden Spritz seasoned with herbes de Provence, both of which looked refreshing and appealingly vibrant in their respective glassware.
Once we were finally shown our table, we got a better look at the dining room, which was designed by The Rockwell Group. The space glows with a rich, Mediterranean sheen and is awash in navy blue, terracotta, and burgundy. Tables and banquettes, laid with starched white tablecloths and glass lamps, are well spread out, which always makes me happy considering I’m married to a man towering nearly 6’5”. One funny moment that can help capture the mood? A woman at the table next to us was gently scolded for turning on her phone’s blinding flashlight to read the menu. Note to self: Bring your glasses.
The mix of characters veered wildly from plastic surgery-laden Upper East Side/Palm Beachers to Euro and Middle Eastern money to tattooed tech bros and indigenous West Village Girlies, so the people-watching index was off the charts. However, it was the food that ended up impressing me the most, and I’m happy to report that so far, the hype lives up to its potential.
The menu is well chosen and not overwhelming, which I appreciate. From the raw bar, we chose the “Tuna Charmant,” which comes as a mound of lightly glazed tuna tartar, accompanied by mild green olives, sweet heirloom peppers, saffron aioli, and a pile of thin salty potato chips to scoop it all up. Together, nothing overwhelmed the bite, and the crunchy chip was the perfect vehicle for the tender tuna. For our starter, my husband chose the Leeks and Stracciatella, and though I wasn’t sure what to expect, the shiny, slow-cooked leeks were perfectly paired with the ooey cheese and smoky praline crumble. The chef also sent a few things he wanted us to taste, and boy am I glad he did. Our favorite was the Curry Duck Pastel, which may sound fancy, but is really just a samosa filled with a flavor bomb of coconut duck curry, along with a thick, sweet tamarind sauce which we spooned inside the crispy dough. If I had my way, I’d create an entire dish around that heavenly curry sauce.
Chef Brodsky, who spent seven years as executive chef of the four restaurants at Palm Heights, a boutique hotel in Grand Cayman, did come over to check in, which gave us a better understanding of where his passions lie. The Caribbean, and the people who live and work there, helped shape his global sensibilities, because, he told us, these people weren’t just bringing culture; they were coming directly from their homes to help to create a worldwide melting pot of cuisines he could take inspiration from. You will see this in all the Charmant dishes, from that addictive coconut curry, to the razor clam spaghetti studded with green chiles, to the Crispy Fish Sandwich, which Brodsky said has been a surprise overperformer on the menu.
I decided on the Iberica Milanese for my entree, which is a pounded, pan-fried cutlet of the prized Spanish pork, paired with onions braised with mustard and lemon, and a crunchy fennel salad to cut the fat. My husband went with the Steak Frites and chose the center-cut filet over the New York Strip, which came in a spritely peppercorn sauce. We also asked for the mixed Grand Vert Salad, and this came in a generous bowl sprinkled with aromatic fresh basil and capers, and tossed with a mildly acidic vinaigrette.
Lastly, though we barely had room for it, we were serenaded with desserts. Though the Lemon Meringue Posset was properly sweet and tangy, and elegantly presented in a silver coupe, it was the extravagant Chocolate Mousse Service that led to our ultimate demise. This gigundo dollop was light and airy and came with toppings like cherries and chocolate crunch to sprinkle on top. The waitress felt so bad that we could hardly dent it that she packed it up to take home to our always-ravenous boys (who devoured it all in one sitting, crossing spoons to get the last bite).
In the end, I came away pleasantly surprised and happily impressed with the standard of food and service. This is not a local hangout, and as we know from the group’s other restaurants, they tend to treat the space like their own private club, making it ultra-exclusive for everyone but friends of the house. But if you’re looking for a night out where you can get gussied up (there is a “Smart Elegant” dress code here, and I was reminded via text that “Any guest who does not appear sufficiently well-presented may be refused entry”) and throw down with the seen-and-be-seen crowd — all while enjoying an excellent meal, Cafe Charmant is the place to shoot for.
