The skincare world is full of hero ingredients that do yeoman’s duty in a variety of products, but there’s always a “next big thing” ingredient waiting to work its wonders. Hyaluronic acid has been the king of the hill for some time when it comes to moisturizing, but now there’s a new contender for the throne.
It’s called polyglutamic acid — PGA for short, and it’s getting a lot of play for one major reason. It’s five times more hydrating than hydraluronic acid (HA), so it’s definitely got a lot to offer, and PGA is starting to turn up in an increasing number of products.
It is, new, though, so there’s a lot to unpack. Specifically, what benefits can you get from PGA? Where is it from, and how is it sourced? Is it easy to add to your skincare routine, or are there some hoops you need to jump through to do that?
Just what is polyglutamic acid?
To get some solid answers backed up by serious expertise, we’ll turn to Dr. Teresa Song, a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical.
“Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a water-solute peptide made up of repeating units of amino acid glutamic acid,” Song says. “It works as a humectant to draw moisture into the skin.”
This particular peptide is produced by the fermentation of a bacteria called Bacillus subtilis, which is found in fermented foods like natto, which is a Japanese fermented soybean dish.
Not what you were expecting, right? But the culinary version of this bacteria is very different from the peptide that goes into skincare products. PGA has to be biotechnologically synthesized through a controlled fermentation process, and one advantage that comes with this process is that it makes skincare-grade PGA both vegan and sustainable.
Why PGA is 5X more moisturizing than hyaluronic acid
Now it’s science time, so think accordingly. PGA’s extra moisturizing capabilities stem from its molecular structure, which makes it unique when it comes to holding moisture and providing hydration.
“PGA has a molecular structure that allows it to form a flexible film on the skin’s surface to lock in hydration more effectively than HA, which mostly hydrates by pulling water into deeper layers,” Song explains.
That ability to lock in water is downright muscular compared the abilities of hyaluronic acid. According to Song, PGA can hold up to 5,000 times its weight in water, compared to a “paltry” 1,000 times for HA. Even better, PGA and HA can work together in ways that are truly impressive.
“Unlike HA, which draws moisture into the skin, PGA reduces trans-epidermal water loss by sealing hydration,” Song adds. “PGA and HA can work complementarily by creating a barrier to keep moisture in.”
Why has polyglutamic acid been slower to catch on?
Given the impressive hydration capability of PGA, it’s fair to ask why it hasn’t spread faster and further in different skincare products. The reasons are simple, sort of —it’s about money and verified performance data.
According to Song, PGA costs more to produce due to the fermentation and purification process. In addition, there are fewer clinical studies on its use compared to HA, which has built up a lot of scientific data.
Formulation is also a challenge. While hyaluronic acid has proliferated in an amazing array of skincare products, integrating PGA is a different matter entirely.
“PGA can also post a texture challenge, where higher concentrations can lead to a tacky or film-like texture on the skin,” Song says.
Finding and assessing PGA products can be a challenge
Texture issues are both complicated and critical, so it’s probably not surprising that there aren’t nearly as many PGA products. They’re not impossible to find, though, and it’s likely to get a lot easier as different companies perfect the formulation process and solve the texture issue.
Start by looking for polyglutamic acid in the basic labeling of most products you’re considering. In addition, Song says it may also be listed as gamma-PGA or fermented soybean extract, the latter of which may help explain why it’s been slow to catch on.
“[The] best formulation usually has both PGA and other humectants like hyaluronic acids or glycerin, paired with soothing agents like niacinamide or panthenol,” Song summarizes.
Integrating PGA into your skincare routine
This part is surprisingly simple.
“Apply it after cleansing your face, prior to [the] application of cream or oil moisturizers,” Song says. “[It’s] often coupled with hyaluronic acid, and [PGA] is best applied on damp skin for better absorption.”
To help with this integration process, here are some specific products you can look for to get you started on your PGA journey. Inkey is the leader in the clubhouse, with a Polyglutamic Acid Serum, and the Poluglutamic Acid Dewey Sunscreen SPF 30 is a solid seasonal choice for summer protection. Finally, Typology Plumping Serum with 3% Polyglutamic Acid is another good choice.
You won’t have to wait long, though. Based on some of the hype that PGA has been getting, it’s well on the way to becoming a staple in the skincare world, so the number of choices is going to increase faster than you can say “polyglutamic acid.”
