If you make a list of skin problems no one wants to talk about, ingrown hairs will be at or near the top for most people. They’re surprisingly pervasive, and they come with quite an array of causes, too. Given how vexing they can be, it’s well worth exploring how to prevent ingrown hairs, not to mention the treatments you need to know about if your prevention efforts fall short.
Who gets ingrown hairs and why they happen
Getting the right expertise is important with ingrown hairs. With that in mind, we’ll rely on Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist and fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon. Her qualifications are beyond impressive: Henry is a nationally-recognized expert in aesthetic dermatology and the specific issues with skin of color.
Start with a surprising fact: There are no limits when it comes to who can get ingrown hairs.
“If you remove hair, you’re at risk,” says Henry, who is also one of the instructors in the recently-released Skin Health class on MasterClass. “However, some groups are more likely to deal with ingrown hairs based on their hair texture and hair grooming habits.”
That suggests a wide variety of prevention and treatment options, but let’s review those specific groups before we get deeper into prevention and treatment.
“Men often get them in the beard area —i.e., the face and neck — from regular shaving,” she says. “[This happens] for men with coarse, curly facial hair, particularly Black men. We refer to these as chronic razor bumps, also known as pseudofolliculitis barbae.
“Women tend to see ingrown hairs along the chin, bikini line, legs, and underarms. [Any] areas where women regularly shave.”
The issues with ingrown hairs extend beyond gender, though. According to Henry, those with curly or coarse hair are much more at risk for ingrown hairs.
“That’s because curly hair can more easily curl back into the skin after being cut,” she says. “Bottom line? Ingrown hairs can affect just about anyone, but they’re most common in people with thick or curly hair and those who shave or wax frequently.”
The diagnosis and prevention path
While many people are well aware that they’re having issues with ingrown hairs, it’s often helpful to get a professional diagnosis.
“If you visit a dermatologist, we can diagnose ingrown hairs both visually and clinically, without the need for a biopsy or blood test,”Henry explains. “Small bumps that are red, tender, or occasionally itchy are often seen with a visible trapped hair. An ingrown hair assessment differs from a regular skin check, as it’s highly targeted rather than scanning your entire body.”
The good news for those seeking prevention or early intervention is that the basic initial steps are simple. To some extent, they’re all about shaving — or not
“Take a break from shaving,” Henry advises. “Giving your skin a few days off can allow the trapped hair to grow out naturally.”
Shaving technique and products matter, too
Giving your skin more time to recover from shaving isn’t the only option, though. Technique matters, and so does using the right razor.
“Shave smarter,” Henry advises. “Use a sharp, single-blade razor. Shave in the direction of hair growth. Don’t stretch the skin tightly while shaving.
“Traditional multi-blade razors often cut hair below the surface of the skin, which increases the chance it’ll curl back inward, especially if you have curly or coarse hair.”
The companies that make shaving products have been paying attention, and they’ve developed several”skin-smart” razors to reduce this risk.
“The Gillette SkinGuard is a popular example,” Henry says. “It has only two blades instead of the usual three to five, and [it] features a special bar between them that smooths the skin and minimizes tugging.
“For women, razors like the Oui the People Single-Blade Razor are getting buzz for their gentle designs. The Billie is a multi-blade device that features a charcoal soap cushion to soften the skin.” [Note: I couldn’t get the Oui razor link to come up directly on their site, so I used the refill link]
It does take time to get the benefits when you scale down from a multi-blade design, though.
“You may not get that super close shave at first,” Henry explains. “The trade-off is worth it to avoid painful, itchy bumps.”
Subsequent steps and treatments
As you clean up your shaving game, don’t forget about exfoliation. The amount of dead skin cells we shed on a daily basis often astounds people –it’s 500 million, believe it or now! — and shedding those cells is another important step in prevention or early treatment.
“Exfoliate gently,” Henry advises. “A few times a week, use a scrub or exfoliating pad with glycolic or salicylic acid to help clear away dead skin that might trap hairs.”
Another tactic is to use warm compresses. Applying a warm, damp cloth for 10–15 minutes can soften the skin and coax the hair out.
Spot treatments play a role as well. These typically involve products with exfoliating acids, tea tree oil, or witch hazel to reduce bumps and soothe irritation. Topical retinoids can help exfoliate and reduce discoloration from earlier razor bumps, and a one-percent concentration of hydrocortisone cream is a great over-the-counter choice for calming inflamed skin.
Consider hydrocortisone cream, too, in a one percent formulation. It’s available over-the-counter and is great for calming inflamed skin. Your dermatologist can also prescribe steroid creams or antibiotics if you have significant inflammation or infection, and eflornithine cream can slow hair growth. Eflornithine is a bit of a tongue-twister — try saying it three times fast if you doubt me here — but it’s also a frequent solution for women dealing with stubborn facial ingrown hairs.
Finally, there’s the tweezers option, but this one comes with caution warning.
“If the hair is visible at the surface, you can gently lift it with sterilized tweezers,” she says. “But never dig around under the skin.”
Turn to your dermatologist for advanced cases
So how do you know if you need more serious treatment? Henry lists several common indicators: frequent, painful bumps that don’t go away, pus-filled bumps, or signs of infection.
There are others, of course. These include dark marks or scarring from previous ingrown hairs, and women especially have ingrown hairs in sensitive areas like the groin or buttocks that keep coming back.
If any of these are all too familiar, it’s time to call in your dermatologist. The heavy-duty solutions include prescription creams like retinoids or antibiotics or minor procedures to safely release hair, and you may find yourself facing electrolysis or laser treatment for permanent hair reduction, not to mention possible treatment for scarring or post-inflammatory pigmentation. Prevention is possible, though, so make sure you try the appropriate steps first to cover all the bases.
