When it comes to murky marketing, the world of hair loss products is the clear leader in the world of men’s grooming. It’s been full of false promises, snake oil offerings, and sketchy claims for years, and to some extent, this trend continues unabated.
Some intriguing products are emerging, though, that offer new possibilities. Sorting all this out can be a full-time job, so here’s a solid guide to what works and what doesn’t in the world of hair loss products, along with a quick glimpse of what’s on the horizon.
The hair loss market has definitely changed
If you want proof that the products have changed, consider the perspective of Dr. Ellen Marmur, a board-certified dermatologist who’s also the founder of MMSkincare.
“As a derm, we used to dread hair loss visits because there was so little to offer,” she says. “Now, it is an exciting diagnosis because there is help for hair loss at every age and stage.”
That help comes with complications, however. Hair loss comes with a wide array of possible causes, so it’s important to get it right when you break them down and pick the ones that are most relevant to your situation.
There are plenty of possible hair loss causes
One of the reasons that hair loss is tough to treat is the array of possible causes.
“You can’t simplify hair loss so easily,” Marmur says. “There are common causes, like age and hormones, and also rare but important causes like lupus or infections.”
The most common one, though, is androgenic alopecia, which is the proper name for female and male pattern age-related hair loss. Unfortunately, it’s also the most chronic, but Marmur refers back to her comment about having more treatment possibilities when she discusses specific options.
“I like treating this with a combination of prescriptions including dutasteride, minoxidil, and topicals like Kerafactor products,” she says. “[There are] compounded products with topical minoxidil, finasteride, cortisone, and also we run broad lab tests to detect iron deficiency, thyroid issues, signs of excess vitamin ingestion, anemia, and hormone issues.”
Hair loss products to avoid
That murky marketing we mentioned earlier is designed to sell some questionable products, and Marmur quickly fingers supplements for hair loss treatment as one of the problematic ones.
“Supplements can backfire or be futile yet expensive,” she says. “The worst culprit is protein supplements for muscle building that might include testosterone enhancers, which leads to hair loss and acne.”
Matching your hair loss level with the right products
This is where the rubber meets the road when it comes to countering hair loss. Many people wonder if their hair restoration journey should start with product experiments or a dermatological consult, but Marmur recommends the latter.
“Patients with simple age-related hair loss should see their board-certified dermatologist for a scalp and follicle exam, who will guide them with the most effective, least expensive hair growth solutions,” she says. “Seeing the dermatologist will save them money from purchasing marketing- and advertising-driven supplements and elixirs.”
Dermatologists have clinical studies proving the effectiveness of a treatment that employs platelet-rich plasma (PRP) with laser and growth factors to bring back hair growth. There’s one important caveat, though: This solution should always be done in a physician’s office because of the safety standards, so avoid those glitzy-looking spa options.
“Even in simple age-related hair loss, the scalp and hair follicle have complex growth pathways,” she summarizes. “So there is no ‘one size fits all’ when looking for precision therapy for good hair.”
Some hair loss products are more reliable than others
Despite the absence of one-size-fits-all solutions, there are reliable products that can be considered old standbys at this point. One is Rogaine, which pioneered the use of minoxidil, and the company’s longevity has led to solid results that make it a common dermatological choice.
“Rogaine is clinically proven to regrow four times more hair in sixteen weeks,” says Paul La Terra, the Director of R&D Global Hair and Scalp at Kenvue. “It’s also the number one dermatologist-recommended hair regrowth brand. However, we always recommend starting when you first notice thinning to get the most out of your regrowth journey.”
Are exosomes a new hair loss solution?
Because of the size of the hair loss market, companies of all kinds are constantly pumping money into product research. That breakthrough product out on the horizon is a potential gold mine, and exosomes are one of the possibilities currently generating a buzz.
What are exosomes? Simply put, they’re carriers. More specifically, they’re nano-sized extracellular vesicles that carry a cargo of biologically active molecules, and they signal neighboring cells to influence and support their natural biological function.
Some of that sounds a little fuzzy on the surface, but Exoceuticals is using proprietary manufacturing methods to “tune” the cargo of specific exosomes to enhance their skin and hair rejuvenating properties.
The result is a new product called the EXO Hair Collection. Dr. Robin Smith is the co-founder of Exoceuticals, and she describes the capabilities of this product as groundbreaking.
“Each product formulation is thoughtfully crafted and includes additional clinically-proven bioactive ingredients to restore the scalp ecosystem and reactivate healthier, stronger growth,” she says. “The EXO Hair Collection is designed to address thinning, shedding, and scalp imbalance at the cellular level, without hormones or drugs.”
So how does that differ from products based on minoxidil? According to Smith, it’s all about the activation mechanisms.
“While Monoxidil and Exosomes have both been used for hair loss, their mechanism of action is significantly different,” Smith explains. “The EXO Hair Collection offers a regenerative approach. The exosomes help signal the body’s cells to reprogram behavior, restore function, and regenerate while additionally supporting the repair and rejuvenation of damaged tissue, including the scalp, hair follicles, and follicular cells.”
The company claims to be the first consumer brand to recognize what Smith calls “the importance of the cellular source used to isolate exosomes and the properties and functionality of specific exosome cargos as well as to utilize specific exosome ‘signatures’ to achieve clinically proven cosmetic efficacy.
“The EXO Hair Collection unites dual-source exosome therapy made accessible in a non-invasive, at-home format, pairing human stem cell-derived exosomes with plant-based extracellular vesicles (EVs) to deliver unparalleled results.”
The verbiage may be a little thick, but the potential they offer in the ongoing war on hair loss is undeniable. If exosomes do indeed become the final solution, it will roil and upend the hair loss market in ways that are impossible to predict.
