Hefty, dry-aged porterhouse steaks served sizzling hot or prehistoric-sized cowboy ribeyes, the classic American steak is well-loved by meat lovers. However, an increasing trend for some restaurants is treating fish like steak. And these fish dishes are not forgotten sideshows, but rather, fish treated and cooked like steak, served with the same hearty portions and classic steak sauces.
To learn more, we interviewed Chef Alex Stupak at The Otter, a seafood restaurant in Soho, Manhattan, to understand the chef’s perspective on this trend. “It expands the menu without changing the format,” explains Stupak. “Not everyone wants a large steak, but they still want that steakhouse experience with a seared crust, a rich sauce, and a satisfying plate.”
Why fish?
Beef might be delicious, but not everyone wants steak, even if they appreciate it for a night out. “A fish ‘steak’ lets you deliver the same style of dish while offering something that feels more balanced,” says Stupak. The key to matching fish with steak is the texture, which means choosing the right fish. Fish like sole or flounder are too delicate. Instead, think swordfish or tuna.
“Swordfish and tuna have firm muscle fibers rather than flaky layers,” explains Stupak. “So they can take a hard sear and be sliced across the grain like a chop. Once you recognize that, it becomes obvious you can apply classic steakhouse techniques such as pepper crusts, pan sauces, or steak frites while still keeping seafood at the center of the plate.”
This firm texture, says Stupak, allows the fish to be cooked on high heat without breaking apart. Swordfish is comparable to a veal chop in this context, a good fit for steakhouses. A big difference lies in the cooking techniques, however, since the margin for error is smaller. “Fish cooks faster and has less fat than beef,” says Stupak. “You still want aggressive heat to build a crust, but you have to pull it sooner so it stays juicy.”
Get creative with fish
At The Otter, Stupak showcases this trend with the signature swordfish steak frites, a twist on the classic steak frites. The swordfish is thick and generously crusted in a peppery au poivre crust. “The peppercorn heat and richness deliver the same savory satisfaction people expect from a steakhouse plate, but the fish keeps the dish lighter and brighter,” said Stupak.
The accompanying fries are slender and taste very similar to McDonald’s (a good thing in this case). It’s quite tasty dipped in the au poivre sauce; no ketchup is necessary. Trying it firsthand, we can see why these swordfish frites can satisfy that steak frites itch, only without the red meat. The pepperiness and meaty texture recreates that red meat experience instead of delicate seafood one expects from a fish dish. “I think chefs will keep applying classic meat-cooking techniques to seafood when the ingredient supports it,” said Stupak. “When a fish can handle that treatment, like swordfish, the result can be just as satisfying as a traditional steakhouse plate.”
