First there was biodynamic, then there was natural and LIVE-certified. Now, wineries in the Napa Valley and beyond are working to become Regenerative Organic Certified. But what does it all mean?
Neal Family Vineyards in California was the first winery in the land to earn such a designation. The label is located in the Howell Mountain area of the broader Napa Valley AVA. It’s essentially the next step in responsible winegrowing.
The designation is overseen by the Regenerative Organic Alliance (ROA), created years ago by the founder of Patagonia, among others. The big-picture approach to agriculture not only looks at healthy soils and minimal tilling techniques but facets like animal welfare and social wellbeing. It’s a broader brand of sustainability that takes into account the land and those who operate on it.
Mark Neal oversees things as both owner and winegrower. He broke down what the new designation means for his own projects and the wine industry at large.
Putting in the work and protecting workers
“The process for Neal Family and my farming company, Jack Neal and Son VM, was very easy for us to achieve,” says Neal. “We have been working with the CCOF since 1984, leading the way in organic winegrowing, and we have been farming biodynamic as well.”
Essentially, it’s been part of the label’s DNA since it got up and running. “The vast majority of the regenerative ‘practices’ have been part of our wine growing methods for decades; they were not foreign or new to us. Also, having worked with CCOF for so long, we are well accustomed to third-party inspections over the last 42 years. While it has not been our primary focus, we also have experience working with livestock in and around vineyards as well.”
Neal has a history of working with crops beyond wine grapes, which aids in the overall understanding of the big picture and the state of ag in Northern California.
“I started out as a farm laborer myself and understand the hard work; from there, I became a supervisor, and these experiences have been a value to me ever since,” he says. “These experiences have allowed me to understand the practical value and provide insights into what today is termed ‘Social Sustainability.’ Our people are vineyard professionals and without their hard work and skill, we would not be in the place we are today.”
The future of sustainability in wine
Neal believes this to be the future of sustainability in American wine. “ROC not only can make wine ‘truly sustainable’ but would be the healthiest choice when it comes to the wine consumer, supporting farmers and our agricultural communities as a whole,” Neal says. “If all vineyards worldwide invested in this mindset or goal, it would lead to the return of biodiversity, improve soil health, with the sinking of carbon into the soil, and improve the quality and value of our agricultural commodities, enriching the lives of everyone, and connecting the average person/consumer with our farmers and agricultural communities. Even all agriculture it would be in the camp of the top three carbon sinks in the world. It would also add more biodiversity back to farming and the environment than commercial farming or greenhouse/hot house farming methods.”
There’s an animal welfare element as well, adding another layer to this involved certification. “Jack Neal and Son does provide sheep and goats to our clients as well as my vineyards,” Neal says. “These animals have tremendous value as they are especially effective and efficient in performing vegetation management work and fire suppression. They can also be used in vineyards, but only under the proper conditions. It is common sense that these animals should be provided with clean water, open space & protection from predators and the environment. There is tremendous value in the return of localized livestock (beef, etc) and the reintegration with our agricultural operations. This enables precise timing with weather conditions, soil conditions, and cover crop removal. Commercial grazers cannot provide that accuracy. Again, we need to go back to true soil restoration methods.”
The certification is showing up on labels (check out our how to read a wine label guide) for Neal Family Vineyards’ recent releases. That includes the ROC logo as well as an organic mention.
“Organic wines, with the label ‘Made with Organic Grapes,’ are gaining momentum and expanding their market share globally. This would be the healthiest choice for consumers,” Neal says.
An evolving landscape
Neal admits that we might have too many certifications at this juncture. “Many have been cultivated since ROC and some have pivoted; however still diluted with marketing that is totally greenwashing,” he says. “I believe the wine industry in general needs integrity and collaboration collectively. Napa should take the lead in the U.S. with this; I have been saying this for years, even when Napa Green was formed, now they are pivoting. But not to my standards. Words like sustainable or sustainability, why would anyone want to sustain? Be status quo with their farming? Synthetic materials are not healthy for soils, water, or life, period.”
It’s about being disciplined and constantly raising the bar. “I might suggest the idea of ‘continuous improvement,’ perhaps,” Neal suggests. “In the vineyard, we started with Certified Organic & we have taken the next step with Regenerative Organic Certification. Perhaps the continued ‘localization’ and ‘interconnectedness’ of the various supply chains, or the minimization of waste streams, or perhaps the localization of energy resources. All these things are also happening now, and I think there might even be existing certification in these arenas; however, the changing of any existing or ingrained infrastructure (or opening people’s eyes) is always a challenge. Again, look at how many certified organic vineyards existed in the Napa Valley, say twenty or even ten years ago, the number was very small; we were outliers for many years. CCOF in Napa doubled its acreage in the last three years.”
What’s next? “What the future holds is anyone’s guess; it is just a question of being creative and adaptive and asking yourself the same question,” Neal concludes. “Can or how can we be better?”
Want to learn even more about wine? Check out our features on online wine courses and helpful wine terminology. Here’s to knowing more about what you’re swirling and sipping.
