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The secret step that makes Tennessee whiskey different from bourbon

Lincoln County Process explained: why it matters in the world of whiskey

Jack Daniel's Old No. 7
Marcel Strauß / Unsplash

You’ve likely heard the debate about Jack Daniel’s. It’s listed as a Tennessee whiskey, but it follows the rules of bourbon. It’s made in the U.S. and features a mash bill of at least 51% corn, among other rules.

So, why isn’t it labeled as a bourbon whiskey? Well, that’s also up for discussion. Bourbon purists will just say that it just isn’t a bourbon and that’s that. And while that isn’t much of an argument, there is one thing that sets it apart from its bourbon counterparts.

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The one difference is that the folks at the Lynchburg, Tennessee-based distillery and most of the other distilleries scattered throughout the Volunteer State use a step in the whiskey-making undertaking referred to as the “Lincoln County process.”

As a whiskey writer, I’ve enjoyed more glasses of Tennessee whiskeys and bourbon whiskeys than I’d care to count. If I were sampling a glass of Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 next to a glass of Wild Turkey or Jim Beam, I’d have a hard time explaining why all three aren’t bourbons. The only difference is the aforementioned Lincoln County process.

While I won’t end the debate about Jack Daniel’s today, I will take a deep dive into that popular whiskey-making process. Below, you’ll learn what the Lincoln County process entails, what it adds to the whiskey, and its history. Since this is a truly Tennessee-centric process, I figured the best person to get to the bottom of the process is Jack Daniel’s Master Distiller Chris Fletcher.

What is the Lincoln County process?

At its essence, the Lincoln County Process, often referred to today as charcoal mellowing, is the defining step that sets Tennessee Whiskey apart from Bourbon.

“At the Jack Daniel Distillery, our whiskey is slowly filtered drop by drop through 10 feet of sugar maple charcoal before it goes into new charred oak barrels to mature,” says Fletcher.

He says that locals often refer to this added step as the “extra blessing” that brings extra velvety smoothness to the whiskey.

What does it do to the whiskey?

You might assume that the process strongly impacts the flavor profile of the whiskey, but it doesn’t. It’s solely used to “mellow” the spirit.

“The process doesn’t add flavor or color — instead, it removes harsher grain notes and impurities, creating a smoother, more approachable whiskey that allows the rich character from the barrel to shine through,” he says.

“This extra refinement is what gives Tennessee Whiskey its distinctive balance while still meeting all the standards of Bourbon.”

What is its history?

Not surprisingly, the technique gets its name from Lincoln County, Tennessee. This is where it was first widely utilized in the 19th century.

“One of the earliest known distillers to use it was Alfred Eaton, around 1825. Although the Jack Daniel Distillery is now part of neighboring Moore County, it was originally part of Lincoln County until 1871,” adds Fletcher.

As whiskey fans know, Jack Daniel learned how to make whiskey from Nathan ‘Nearest’ Green (who now has a whiskey brand in his honor) in the 1850s. Green would eventually be named as the first head distiller at Jack Daniel’s.

“From the very beginning, Jack insisted on charcoal mellowing, and it has remained central to Jack Daniel’s whiskey ever since.”

Jack Daniel’s is all about charcoal

Over the years, Jack Daniel’s perfected the use of the Lincoln County Process. It even deepened the charcoal vats to 10 feet and replaced them when they became too saturated to guarantee constant quality.

“To this day, every batch of whiskey is tasted to confirm the mellowing is effective before barreling,” says Fletcher.

“It’s worth noting that a number of distilleries across the state now produce Tennessee Whiskey, but Jack Daniel’s — founded in 1866 as the first registered distillery in the U.S. – remains the most widely enjoyed American whiskey worldwide, with every drop still made in Lynchburg, Tennessee.”

Christopher Osburn
Christopher Osburn is a food and drinks writer located in the Finger Lakes Region of New York. He's been writing professional
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