The Napa Valley is an internationally-revered destination for a multitude of reasons. From elite-level wine culture and rugged scenery to award-winning restaurants and small town charm, the Valley is not for wanting. And while one could meander all over this storied corner of California, one could also get the Napa experience from a singular luxe resort.
Four Seasons is no stranger to offering excellence. The company puts forth a truly unique brand of hospitality, at once thoughtful and warm. But while the brand has some 120 hotels in 47 countries, what’s happening at the Napa Valley location is quite unique.
Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley is essentially offering a taste of the entire region within its eye-catching property. In addition to the usual suspects—a pair of pools, a spa, fitness options galore—the resort has a Michelin-starred restaurant and working winery. There’s even an organic 4.7-acre vineyard on the grounds. The approach is so intriguing we had to check it out.
The restaurant
Auro is one of the main draws at the resort and Calistoga’s only Michelin-starred restaurant. There are main dishes like dry-aged shima aji and wagyu with walnut puree, creamed kale, garlic confit, and black truffle mushrooms. The presentation is outstanding and the seasonality is impressive. But the best way to experience the restaurant is to play passenger and splurge on the tasting menu.
The journey involves seven courses and can be accented with wine pairings (which is recommended as you’re in Napa). There’s artistry in every dish, and the flavor combos are quite thoughtful. The current tasting menu offers remarkable plates like potato gnocchi with roasted hen of the woods mushroom and peanut-kale crust dry-aged squab with summer figs and mole negro.
The food at TRUSS is also worth your time. Look out for dishes like salmon crudo with peach, basil, and yuzu ponzu, wagyu bolognese, and California sea bass with cannellini beans, kale, and mushrooms. It’s another opportunity to try chef Rogelio Garcia’s work (he’s the chef at Auro too). Born in Mexico City, Garcia has worked at storied restaurants like Cyrus and The French Laundry.
The winery
It would be one thing to have decorative winery on hand just for show. It’s quite another when it’s a legitimate operation helmed by a celebrated winemaker with a beautiful tasting room and cellar. Elusa specializes in Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, the former being clean and balanced and the latter offering tons of depth. Thomas River Brown is the consulting winemaker, and whether you buy into the ratings system or not, his resume is impressive. The vintner has garnered 23 perfect scores (100 points) from Robert Parker. Jonathan Walden is a winemaker as well, having worked stints at O’Shaughnessy Estates and Melka Estates. Elusa’s first harvest was back in 2010.
The label pulls from the estate vineyard as well as a few others in the area but keeps production minimal. Calistoga is a relatively higher-set American Viticultural Area (AVA), meaning the wines tend to hang on to their acid better. The growing conditions are prime, on behalf of both the elevation and the fact that the appellation gets a bit more precipitation than its neighbors.
We did the terroir tasting, which included a vineyard and winery tour, along with a tasting in the cellar paired with charcuterie. Four wines were poured, with a bonus pour at the end of a vintage Cab. It was fascinating to taste Cabernet Sauvignon from three very different vintages (2018, 2019, 2021) and hone in on their distinctive qualities. There was balance and well-roundedness throughout. Beyond the wine quality, the hospitality was notably good, and the staff was very knowledgeable. The winery is worth visiting whether you’re just getting into wine or a seasoned collector.
The experience
The experience here is truly one-of-a-kind. When you’re the only resort in Napa with a Michelin-starred restaurant and house winery, you’re in a league of your own. And to do it all at a Four Seasons level makes for an exceptional experience. The Napa Valley is very much worth exploring but when you’re at a Four Seasons, you rarely want to leave. And to tack on some of the best eats and sips in the region just steps from your room is pretty phenomenal.
With weather generally good and food program that changes with the seasons, there’s really not a bad time to visit. However, there was added magic in our early fall visit. With a working winery on site, the alluring smells of fermentation wafted through the air. Olive trees were showing ripe fruit and the resident vines were beginning to light up with color. Fall is also arguably the best time to eat, with so much produce in season finding its way into kitchens and onto menus.
So go to the Four Seasons Napa for the signature amenities and service and stay for the food and wine.
