If you haven’t met chef Ahu Hettema, you should. Perhaps not in person, but through a good story or a proper sit-down at her esteemed restaurant Istanbul Hawaii. She and her mom run the kitchen at the restaurant, which pays homage to both Turkish and Hawaiian cuisine.
“Our holiday traditions still begin in the kitchen the way they always have in Turkiye,” the chef says. “Big trays of stuffed vegetables, slow-cooked lamb, and preserved fruits my mother makes every year. The table is open to whoever walks in; that sense of generosity is something we never left behind.”
Since moving to Hawaii, Hettema says the fish she and her dad catch together has become a tradition with extra meaning. “It’s something we did growing up, and now we do it here, casting early in the morning, bringing home whatever the ocean gives us, and sharing it with friends and neighbors. It connects our past in Turkiye with our life in the islands in a very natural way,” she says.
It’s fitting she landed in Hawaii as the values both lands covet seem to very much align, and also go well with the current season of gratitude. “Both cultures share the same spirit: community, abundance, and making sure everyone at the table is cared for,” Hettema says.
During her time at Istanbul Hawaii, Hettema has not only carved out a significant following and sharpened her culinary teeth. She’s also developed a love for and genuine understanding of the Middle Eastern wine map. It’s a vast region with tons of winemaking history, yet so often overlooked or marginalized here in the states.
Not so at Hettema’s bustling Honolulu restaurant. She’s embraced the scene and created a lovely list that pairs up her her artistic dishes. If you ever her to Honolulu, book a table at this exciting joint.
We couldn’t resist the opportunity to see what Middle Eastern wines she suggests for the Thanksgiving table. Read on for her expert advice.
Turkey and cranberries and Israeli red
Hettema suggests a Yatir’s Forest from the Negev Highlands of Israel. It’s Cabernet and Syrah from the edge of the desert: dark fruit, cocoa, and stone. She describes it as “structured yet graceful; a powerful companion to sage-roasted turkey, cranberry relish, and buttery sides.”
Keep that in mind for leftovers, because if you’re likely to go big with Thanksgiving dinner, and have plenty of poultry to spare. Extra turkey and cranberry sandwiches are a godsend and go from excellent lunch to elevated dinner with the right wine.
Butternut squash soup and Lebanese white
Here, the chef opts for Château Musar out of the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon. The white wine is made with indigenous grapes (Merwah and Obaideh) and, according to the chef, offers golden, honeyed, and mineral notes. “It tastes like sunlight over limestone, pairing beautifully with butternut-squash soup or lemon-thyme turkey,” she says.
If that’s not a tantalizing enough description of the wine, we’re not sure what is. For those unfamiliar, the Bekaa Valley is the core of the Lebanese wine world, where some 90% of the nation’s fermented juice is made. Some great values can be found here, made of grapes you simply can’t find anywhere else.
Eggplant or roasted duck with Turkish Syrah
We don’t all go the turkey route for Thanksgiving. Hettema offers some filling alternatives, paired with a red wine from her family’s native Turkiye. She likes the Pendore Syrah by Kavaklıdere, a produce in İzmir.
“A refined Turkish Syrah grown in the Pendore vineyards — black fruit, violet, eastern spice, and supple tannins,” she says. “It speaks of modern Anatolia: confident, balanced, quietly powerful. Exceptional with smoked eggplant or roasted duck.”
Other festive dishes and Lebanese red
“During the holidays, I often choose Château Musar Hochar Père et Fils from Lebanon,” the chef says. “It has depth, lift, and that unmistakable Musar character that works beautifully with festive dishes. If they’d like a Turkish varietal as well, Öküzgözü is a favorite for its bright acidity, red-fruit profile, and how well it complements richer holiday foods.”
And what of dessert? Hettema goes classic, opting for an Old World French wine like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti from the storied Burgundy region. She likes it on its own, dubbing it a poetic finale to a good feast. But if you can’t get your palms on that and want to keep the Middle Eastern theme alive, we’ve got an idea.
Look out for dessert wines from Lebanon. Quite a few are made from Muscat we we’re drawn to some made from other varietals, like Cinsault and Gewurztraminer. It might be easier to locate an kosher wine from a more local producer like Hajdu in California. They make some nice ports and vermouths, great for post-meal sipping. Of course, you could always go with a good old fashioned Turkish coffee as a proper nightcap beverage to sign off.
