While smashburgers have been all the rage in recent years, some restaurants are putting a higher-end spin on the classic American burger. In New York City, home to countless steakhouses and chef-driven burgers, a few chefs are pairing high-quality burgers with a classic martini, a cocktail generally associated with steak. These aren’t fast-food-style burgers; instead, these burgers are generally thick, made with custom beef or dry-aged meat, and certainly not cheap. I decided to explore this pairing at a few different restaurants to find out if it works…and why.
Why martini and burgers?
Pairing martinis with red meat is a timeless combination; think Mad Men era New York dining. A burger follows that same logic. At Noortwyck, a West Village restaurant helmed by two Eleven Madison Park alumni, this pairing is all about balance. “The dry-aged cheeseburger brings deep savory richness and umami, and we wanted to offer beverage pairings that balance that out. Our signature dirty martini adds a crisp, briny counterpoint that cuts through that richness beautifully,” explains Chef Andy Quinn at Noortwyck.
At Obvio, an elegant cocktail bar in Nomad, Manhattan, they shared a similar sentiment. “The Obvio Burger is the perfect late-night meal because it has everything you want at the end of the night: rich flavor, indulgence, balance (and carbs). It pairs especially well with the Obvio Martini because the two balance each other perfectly. There’s something timeless about the combination of a great burger and a well-made martini,” says Chef Berenice de Araujo (JFR Chief Culinary Officer).
Trying the pairing firsthand
I was able to try both burgers along with the recommended martinis. Visually, both burgers at Noortwyck and Obvio have similarities — plain, unseeded buns with a single thick patty accented by minimal condiments. Both burgers also use high-quality beef. Noortwyck uses a dry-aged blend of chuck, brisket, and short rib, along with some dry-aged ribeye, while Obvio uses Italian Piedmontese beef sourced from Pat LaFrieda. The Noortwyck patty had a fattier flavor while the Obvio was a bit leaner due to the Piedmontese breed being a leaner breed. Both patties had a hard sear with good seasoning.
Where the flavors diverged was the sauce and cheese. Noortwyck uses a horseradish aioli, giving the burger a heightened richness, while Obvio pairs its burger with a Mary Rose sauce. A British condiment, Obvio’s version features tomato powder, ketchup, Worcestershire, Kewpie mayonnaise, cornichon, horseradish, and Tabasco. The result is a sweeter, slightly tangy sauce. If you like ketchup on your burgers, this version is an upscale rendition of that flavor profile.
When paired with the salinity of a martini, the cocktail cuts through the richness of the beef, cheese, and sauce. Price-wise, these burgers aren’t cheap. The Obvio burger is $26, and the Noortwyck is $25. However, the Noortwyck does have Corner Combo from Monday through Friday until 6:30 pm. Only available in the bar and front room, for $30 you get the dry-aged burger and your choice of a Walk on the Wild Side martini or a Gamay Domaine de la Prebende, Beaujolais 2024. For New York City, it’s an excellent deal for the price.
