In the last decade, Indian chefs have helmed some of the most innovative restaurants in America that go far beyond the familiar classics of butter chicken or garlic naan. But South Asian cuisine is incredibly diverse. One of the lesser discussed cuisines in this space is Sri Lanka. An island nation with a diverse history, Sri Lankan cuisine is a vibrant explosion of texture and color, fragrant with spices and coconut. To learn more, we spoke with Albin Vincent, the Chef and Co-Owner of Lungi, a Michelin Bib Gourmand Sri Lankan restaurant in New York City.
What is Sri Lankan cuisine
Sri Lankan cuisine, due to proximity and culture, shares some crossover with Southern Indian cuisine. Both feature coconut, although Sri Lankan food is more coconut-forward, using everything from the milk to the coconut oil and meat (often made into sambols). Sri Lankan food is also famous for its roasted spice blends, giving dishes a stronger aroma. “There are a few techniques: tempering (tadka), which is frying spices in hot oil to release aroma,” explains Vincent. “Roasting and grinding spices to create custom curry powders, slow simmering coconut-based curries for richness, clay-pot cooking, which adds earthiness and depth, fermentation, especially for hoppers, and stir-frying for sambols and quick vegetable dishes.”
And as expected of an island nation, fish is a major ingredient. “There is a heavy use of Maldive fish for umami in Sri Lankan cuisine,” explains Vincent. “And a stronger use of sour notes from ingredients such as lime, goraka, and tamarind. In South Indian cuisine, sourness is present but less central. Sri Lankan breads (known as hoppers and string hoppers) are based on rice and coconut, whereas South Indian breads (dosa, idli) are rice and lentil-based.”
The menu at Lungi
I was able to visit Lungi firsthand to try out the menu. Despite being a relatively small nation, Sri Lankan cuisine has regional variations. In the South, seafood and coconut curries are highlighted, while the Central Highlands feature vegetables-forward dishes and milder, creamier preparations. In the North and East, Tamil influences are strong, lending to more chilies and roasted spice blends. Finally, in the West, especially in the capital, Colombo, tradition often intermingles with colonial-era European influences.
The menu at Lungi highlights this diversity. The portion sizes are reasonable but not overwhelming, allowing me to try several items. Sri Lankan hoppers, a bowl-shaped crepe made from rice flour, are a must and a staple of the cuisine. Seafood dishes are plentiful, including a crab curry that showcases Northern spices. The Deafman Shop Tawa Fish Fry made from kingfish is excellent and quite spicy. The Lamprais, a Dutch Burgher (an ethnic group of mixed Dutch, Portuguese, and Sri Lankan descent) is a rice parcel with various curries baked in a banana leaf. A highlight of the menu is the Black Short Rib Curry. Deeply meaty and fragrant from the roasted spices, the beef is meltingly tender. I found myself scooping up all the sauce with my order of egg hopper. The perfect combination.
