Most of us tend to gravitate towards the kind of clothing that is straightforward and classic. Something that isn’t necessarily boring, but doesn’t exactly set the room on fire. Let’s get one thing perfectly straight: there is nothing wrong with playing it safe. The black tuxedo is a staple of the man’s wardrobe and has always been and will always be the go-to for the everyman. But what about the man who wants more for themselves? What is out there for the guy who wants to take the next step in gentlemanly attire? Fellas, I present to you the smoking jacket.
Before I get into what these are and where they came from, I will address the most obvious question that many men will have: Why the heck do I need one if I don’t live in the Playboy mansion?
The case for the smoking jacket
It is true, Hugh Hefner has made the smoking jacket a symbol of a very specific archetype. The ultra-rich playboy. And if that isn’t you, then it is definitely not the kind of image you want to send to those around you. Especially if you decide to invite people over to your home. Imagine opening the door and the first thing people see is you in a Playboy mansion cosplay.
Instead, let’s invoke a slightly more respectable image of Gomez Adams. Always loving one woman and looking ever the gentleman of the night as he showers her with his praise. Or maybe we can go to the authoritative image of M in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, the green smoking jacket looking like a man in charge of his world. And finally, a more recent image of Galahad in Kingsman, Colin Firth attending Sam Jackson’s dinner party in a stellar blue smoking jacket. Any of these images lends a little more credibility to the idea that they are the picture of elegance, sophistication, creativity, and confidence.
Whether you are the kind of guy who likes to stand out in a formal event and want to wear one like our man Galahad, or you are a guy who simply wants to elevate the at-home looks with a robe alternative, these are the garments you need to pick up. And, for the love of everything, especially your guests, look to Adams, M, and Galahad for inspiration, not The Hef.
How they ended up a men’s staple
Let’s start with a little bit of history as to why these things took off to begin with. Why did men fancy up a robe? It is a simple question, and the answer is just as simple: To protect their evening wear. While we may be a little less apt to retire to our dens for an evening brandy and cigar, as recently as the mid-1900s, this was the common practice for most men. Once the desert was finished and the conversation lulled, the men would excuse themselves to discuss matters of the world, donning their smoking jackets over their elegant evening wear that would hold the aroma of the smoke if exposed.
These were the beginning, and as the smoking habit left the upper echelons of society, the smoking jacket evolved to survive. They soon became alternative options to the dinner jacket and the tuxedo jacket for the formal dress codes. Formal events now saw the arrival of colored velvet, and those men who wanted to stand out certainly began to. Today, they are set up to be whichever you want them to be, and that means you should have one in your closet out of sheer versatility. But, of course, that means you need to know which one is best for you.
Have I convinced you? Good. Here is what to keep an eye out for.
What makes a good smoking jacket
First thing to know is which style of smoking jacket you should get. Things they all have in common are a shawl collar and (should) be a color that isn’t common in the formal jacket, like black or white. Burgundy, forest green, deep navy, or the like will make for a striking piece.
Now for the differences in the types. The old-school classic is a little thicker with toggle buttons and/or a sash closing similar to a robe. There is often a decorative cuff or one that is turned up to reveal the satin lining underneath. Since these are a little closer to the elevated homewear (akin to the Gomez Adams look), they typically take a very specific kind of man who can pull them off in a formal setting. If you are not that kind of man, then the kind that is closer to the Galahad look is more up your alley. Velvet fabric with a satin shawl and a single-button closure. It is often cut very similarly to other formal jackets.
The smoking jacket is the kind of piece that can take your look from run-of-the-mill, lost in a sea of people, to the center of attention. Or, if you are simply the kind of guy who still loves the nightcap and stoggie at the end of the night (we salute you), then you need to be picking up a smoking jacket ASAP. The one featured in this article is an introductory piece from Flex Suits that is perfect for the guy who is looking for something to test out and see what he likes. It is accessible and easy, won’t break the bank, and is easily upgraded.
