Whether it is in an employee handbook or an invitation to an event, we have all been in a moment where we see a dress code listed and feel the need to call up the host or the HR director for a little more information. Dress codes can be a very confusing thing. Some definitions are horrendously vague, while others are frustratingly strict. But, in the end, most of them just end up being a labyrinth of individual interpretation. Moving forward, men need to be better about owning our appearance, and knowing the dos and don’ts is the first step to doing just that. This is merely a list and a small overview of the 11 dress codes you need to know, which I will go deeper into one by one. And, of course, the nerdy movie buff in me couldn’t help but use some of my favorite movie moments to display examples.
White tie
White tie is the highest level of dress code in the sartorial lexicon. This is reserved for the most prestigious and elite events. This shouldn’t be the kind of event you just show up to. This kind of event has an invitation, a strict adherence to the dress code, a valet, and your best behavior. The most traditional version of this look is the white tie, shirt, and vest. And the tuxedo typically has tails. If you want to really go all out, bust out a top hat.
One of my favorite examples of a white tie look is from 1997, when Jack Dawson unrealistically threw on a perfectly tailored tuxedo meant for someone else and went to a party before the Titanic slammed into an iceberg.
Black tie
Let’s be honest, you knew that at some point I was going to talk about James Bond. Let’s count backwards. How many articles can we count before we run into the last time I mentioned 007? Two? Three? Well, my obsession aside, MI6’s most famous secret agent is the gold standard of black tie. The most common formal dress ranges from New Year’s parties and weddings to proms and sitting at a poker table at the Casino Royale. Anchored by your run-of-the-mill tuxedo and bow tie, black, navy, and even white are the most common colors to wear. However, there is a bit of fun to be had with the expression in the right moments.
Black tie optional
I know what you’re thinking: “You’re using James Bond again? Two dress codes in a row?” You would think that since I am using Pierce Brosnan again. But, it isn’t. It is The Thomas Crowne Affair. And there is a very specific reason that I am using this movie to display black tie optional. Did you know that anyone who plays 007 has a contract stating they can’t wear a tuxedo on screen again, ever, outside the Bond persona? That is why he had to keep his bow tie undone during the tuxedo scene. Fascinating little tidbit, but what does it have to do with black tie optional? Simple, when someone says they want this dress code, it is code for they really want black tie but are afraid people won’t come if they have to dress up. This movie really wanted a tuxedo but couldn’t. If someone invites you to a black tie optional, they really want you to wear a tux, so that is what I would wear.
Business professional
We don’t talk about Harvey Specter enough. Sure, he is an arrogant, egotistical jerk, but the man is pretty fantastic at his job and dresses the part. In the first season of Suits, a lot is put into the fact that he has to get Mike looking the part as well as himself. It is all about high-quality fabrics and elegantly tailored silhouettes. The point of this dress code is projection. Think of it as a uniform. It is a way to showcase who you are and what you bring to the table. Your expertise and your talents are projected before you even walk into a room. The number one thing you have to remember here is that you need a good tailor.
Cocktail
Cocktail attire for men is a little bit of a parallel to business professional. Lots of suits and ties, but with a twist. What sets cocktail attire apart from business professional is the colors, patterns, and the freedom to let your freak flag fly. I chose Mickey (Matthew McConaughey) from The Gentlemen. Most of Guy Richie’s films have impeccable wardrobes. The Man From U.N.C.L.E. is another one with stupendous tailoring. But this one showcases Mickey’s use of color better than most. While these looks are the same in structure as a suit and tie, mixing colors, patterns, and textures gives it much more life that wouldn’t fit in the boardroom. The rule of thumb? If it couldn’t be worn to the office, it is cocktail attire.
Smart casual
The step down from the office attire you wear in a business professional environment is smart casual. Smart casual is a relatively new evolution from our next entry, but it has been long overdue. When you watch the show Billions, you get to see Bobby Axelrod (Damien Lewis) give his best Mark Zuckerberg impression in his t-shirt and hoodie most days. But every once in a while, you will see him pull off smart casual better than anyone in the building. Tossing a suit jacket over a t-shirt to elevate the look simply. If you want to nail this look, the best way to do it is to elevate a piece at a time. Dress shoes instead of sneakers, a dress shirt with jeans, or a jacket over a tee or sweater.
Business casual
The dreaded business casual. I hate this one. With a passion. I always imagine the origin point of business casual is a bunch of guys sitting in a room deciding what the most basic and lowest formality items men would be accepted wearing in a professional setting are, and then putting them in a handbook. This is where the golf polos and performance chinos took over the office. My advice for business casual, when you are told this is the dress code, is to elevate one item and kick it up to smart casual. I chose to showcase Jordan Belfort’s (Leonardo DiCaprio) business casual look from The Wolf of Wall Street because I am petty, and this is his day off look. Because successful people often only dress down when they are off.
Casual
More Leo. I honestly didn’t realize how many times he was on this list until I started writing it, but let’s focus on Brad Pitt instead. His Cliff Booth character from Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is the epitome of cool. He was the definition of casual but always seemed to have a thought-out ensemble. Denim jackets, t-shirts, and boots seem almost like his stuntman armor as he navigates the business. For you, this can be sportswear, this can be streetwear, this can be skatewear, or beachwear. Your self-image can come through. This is your free-for-all. No rules. However, remember that a thought-out look like Cliff Booth’s, will be stylish instead of thrown-together madness.
Work wear
Workwear started having a moment a few years ago when Taylor Sheridan’s Yellowstone became a smash hit on TV. Now, I am team Jaime Dutton, who always wears a suit, but John and Rip spend the entirety of the show’s run in clothing that could break horses, herd cattle, or take people to the train station (if you know you know). If you want to jump into the workwear look, you can go the genuine route with Carhartt, Wrangler, and others worn on the ranch, in the factory, or on the road. Or, you can look into the more stylish side of the workwear with pieces inspired by it. Structure and fabrics, textures, and colors that keep it looking rugged.
Gym wear
Finally, we have reached the part of the list of dress codes that shouldn’t be worn out of the house unless in a very specific environment. Gym wear is meant for movement. For function. This is lightweight, stretchy, and built for you to punish your body. But it belongs in the gym or during activities; it shouldn’t be worn as a fashion statement. There is some confusion when I say sportswear, as people think of gymwear. That is why I dropped an image of Dwayne Johnson, Mark Wahlberg, and Anthony Mackie from Pain and Gain. Because they look ridiculous on the streets in their muscle shirts and shorts. There are ways to dress stylishly, even when you have giant muscles.
Loungewear
Lastly, we have our most casual and laidback dress code. The never-to-be-worn-out-of-the-house loungewear. Think of it this way: Loungewear and sleepwear are virtually the same. And you should never wear your pajamas out of the house. This is meant for the ultimate comfort and is perfect for curling up and watching The Big Lebowski, which I am using as our example of loungewear. Sure, The Dude is the epitome of cool, but he will never be a stylish man. He was doing the Adam Sandler style before TikTok thought it was cool. So get your sweats, shorts, and pjs, pop some popcorn, and feel good that you now understand the enigma that is men’s dress codes.
