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Copenhagen: Five days in Scandinavia’s most livable city

The beaty and convenience makes this the city to choose for expats.

Bicycle, Transportation, Vehicle
Peter Horan / The Manual

Some trips spend years on your wish list before they finally happen. Copenhagen was one of those destinations for us. We had talked about visiting Denmark for years, drawn by its reputation for clean design, remarkable quality of life, and a city where bicycles outnumber automobiles. When we finally spent five summer days there in 2026, we discovered something even better. Copenhagen isn’t just attractive—it is remarkably easy to enjoy. Everything works. Public transportation is outstanding, the harbor is alive with boats, the food is excellent, and almost every neighborhood feels welcoming, safe, and effortlessly stylish. And, in the summer, everyone is living outside and basking in the sun. This was reinforced for us when my wife chatted with an American woman who had spent the last four summers in the city with her family. She felt that it was both an exciting change from suburban America but also safe enough to give their kids a longer leash than they would at home. 

If you’re thinking about a first visit, here’s what stood out.

The city naturally revolves around its waterfront. Unlike many historic European capitals where the river is little more than scenery, Copenhagen treats its harbor as part of daily life. Ferries shuttle commuters alongside sightseeing boats. Locals swim in designated harbor pools. Restaurants and cafés spill onto the water’s edge, and nearly every walk eventually brings you back to a canal or harbor. One of the best surprises was how practical the harbor buses turned out to be. They’re not tourist cruises—they’re part of the city’s public transportation network. Hop aboard with the same transit pass you use for buses and trains, and you’ll enjoy one of Europe’s most scenic commutes while moving efficiently between neighborhoods. It’s transportation and sightseeing rolled into one.

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That theme repeats itself throughout Copenhagen. Public transportation is simply outstanding. The Metro is spotless, fast, frequent, and remarkably intuitive even if you don’t speak Danish. Trains, buses, and harbor buses connect seamlessly, making it almost unnecessary to consider renting a car. We found ourselves crossing the city in minutes with very little planning. For visitors accustomed to navigating congested European capitals, Copenhagen is refreshingly uncomplicated. Although you may be encouraged to rent a bike and join the locals, be careful. Cycling in Copenhagen is a blood sport.  People move fast and decisively. A meandering tourist will get dirty looks at best and crushed at worst.

Our best travel purchase was the Copenhagen Card. It includes admission to dozens of museums and attractions while also covering virtually all public transportation throughout the city. Even without trying particularly hard, we easily received more value than the card cost. Besides the financial savings, it eliminates the constant friction of buying individual tickets or wondering whether another museum is worth the admission price. As we usually do, we took a walking tour from Get Your Guide on our first day. Definitely worth it.

Of course, some attractions deserve their international reputation.

Tivoli Gardens absolutely lives up to the hype—especially after sunset. During the day, it’s an elegant historic amusement park filled with gardens, restaurants, and classic rides. At night, however, thousands of lights transform it into something magical. Live music drifts across the grounds, families stroll beneath illuminated trees, and the entire place feels less like a theme park than a beautifully preserved piece of Danish culture. Even visitors who never ride a single attraction should spend an evening there.

The royal palaces are equally worthwhile. Amalienborg Palace offers a fascinating glimpse into the Danish monarchy, while Christiansborg Palace showcases centuries of Danish political history. Denmark remains one of Europe’s oldest constitutional monarchies, and unlike some royal residences that feel frozen in the past, these buildings still feel connected to contemporary Danish life. The Rosenborg Palace showcases the Crown Jewels of Denmark as well as interesting examples of arms and armor.

Nyhavn is crowded and touristy but the definitive Copenhagen site.  It’s gorgeous despite the crowds.

But some of our favorite discoveries were places that receive far less attention.

The Museum of Contemporary Art proved to be one of the unexpected highlights of our trip. The museum is easily accessible by either water taxi or bus and is at the end of a beautiful spit of land. The centerpiece during our visit was an extraordinary installation by American artist James Turrell. Turrell doesn’t create paintings or sculptures in the conventional sense. Instead, he works with light itself, manipulating color and perception in ways that make visitors question the boundaries between architecture, space, and vision. It’s one of those rare museum experiences that is difficult to describe but unforgettable once you’ve experienced it. There were several other significant installations—some way out there. 

Another fabulous art museum outside the city is Louisiana. This is set on a sprawling seaside estate and has a huge collection. They do a great job introducing the artists and telling their stories. For something very different—there is a Viking ship museum in Roskilde. The curators have resurrected actual Viking ships from the harbor bed and rebuilt them. 

Equally memorable, though for entirely different reasons, was the Museum of Danish Resistance. Many Americans know only fragments of Denmark’s experience during World War II. The museum tells a more complicated story, documenting both collaboration and resistance while emphasizing the extraordinary courage shown by ordinary citizens. The most inspiring chapter recounts the rescue of Denmark’s Jewish population in 1943. When Nazi authorities prepared to arrest Danish Jews, thousands of ordinary citizens responded with remarkable speed. Fishermen, clergy, doctors, teachers, and countless volunteers helped ferry Jewish families across the narrow Øresund Strait to neutral Sweden, often under the cover of darkness. More than 7,000 Danish Jews escaped, making Denmark one of the few occupied countries where the overwhelming majority of the Jewish population survived the Holocaust. It remains one of the most remarkable examples of collective moral courage during World War II and gives the museum an emotional impact that extends well beyond military history.

Not every famous attraction deserves equal enthusiasm, however.

The Little Mermaid may be Copenhagen’s most photographed landmark, but it’s also the city’s most overrated attraction. The bronze statue is surprisingly small, perpetually surrounded by crowds, and offers little context beyond checking another famous landmark off your list. Unless you’re a devoted Hans Christian Andersen enthusiast, you’re unlikely to come away wondering what all the excitement was about. We certainly didn’t. If time is limited, there are dozens of better ways to spend an hour in Copenhagen.

Food was another pleasant surprise. Traditional Danish cuisine deserves more attention than it receives internationally. Fresh seafood appears everywhere, often prepared with impressive simplicity that allows high-quality ingredients to shine. Smørrebrød—the famous open-faced sandwiches—are much more satisfying than their humble appearance suggests, with endless combinations of pickled herring, smoked salmon, shrimp, roast beef, eggs, herbs, and fresh vegetables. Excellent bakeries seem to occupy nearly every neighborhood, making breakfast one of the day’s highlights. There are excellent food courts with multiple dining options.  On a summer night, it’s also fun to go out to the meatpacking district where there are many restaurants, clubs and bars. 

None of this comes cheaply. Like most Scandinavian capitals, Copenhagen is an expensive city. Hotel rooms, restaurant meals, and even casual lunches generally cost more than comparable experiences elsewhere in Europe. Fortunately, the quality usually matches the price. Service is professional without being overly formal, public spaces are meticulously maintained, and the city consistently delivers on what you’re paying for.

Perhaps that’s what impressed us most. Copenhagen doesn’t overwhelm visitors with grand monuments like Paris or Rome. Instead, it wins you over through countless small details: efficient transportation, beautiful waterfronts, thoughtful urban design, outstanding museums, excellent food, and a culture that seems genuinely committed to making daily life pleasant.

Five days proved to be just about the right amount of time for a first visit. We saw the iconic attractions, discovered several memorable surprises, and left feeling that we had experienced something distinctly Scandinavian rather than simply another European capital.

That’s probably Copenhagen’s greatest strength. It doesn’t try to impress you. It simply works extraordinarily well—and by the end of your visit, you’ll probably find yourself wondering why more cities don’t.

Peter C. Horan is an entrepreneur and digital media investor with a history of building successful media, commerce and ad… Read Full Bio
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