Not long ago, American Chardonnay was little more than buttery, over-oaked liquid mass produced in California. The stuff coming from Burgundy and elsewhere in the Old World grabbed the headlines, but mostly, the homegrown stuff was seen as flabby and second-tier. With the exception of the occasional producer who really turned heads (Chateau Montelena of the Napa Valley in the early 70s during the famous Judgment of Paris, for example), Chardonnay was the focus of more international producers.
That’s changed quite a bit. Winemakers all over the U.S. have been taking the varietal more seriously and learning lots along the way. Now, with a few generations under its belt, the American Chardonnay scene is stronger than ever. And the epicenter is a unique appellation in the Willamette Valley.
If you like Chardonnay, consider the Eola-Amity Hills. The first vines were planted here back in 1971, and in 200,6 the place finally got its own formal designation. While a part of the expansive Willamette Valley wine scene, it’s a distinctive sub-region thanks to cooling marine breezes and relatively shallow soils. All in all, it’s proving to be the ideal home for Chardonnay.
Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay is austere, elegant, and refined. The options tend to be high-acid, lower-alcohol wonders with tremendous minerality. The wines have been talked about within industry circles for years, but they’re just getting the widespread fame they deserve. Case and point: The Bethel Heights ‘The High Wire’ 2023 Chardonnay just earned an unprecedented 100-point score from Decanter.
Here are some top producers to pay attention to.
Bethel Heights Vineyard
Born in 1977, Bethel Heights has long seen the potential of Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay. The family-run affair loves its Burgundian varietals and makes some of the best Chardonnay in Oregon and beyond. The estate options tend to emphasize the cool, breezy nature of the appellation, showing lovely tension on the palate. With restrained new oak usage and some character-driven fruit, these wines offer so much in terms of flavor and fragrance.
Seven Springs Vineyard
There are technically no Grad Crus vineyards in the U.S., but many in the know would consider this to be one. Seven Springs Vineyard has sold its prized fruit to a number of esteemed Chardonnay producers in the Willamette Valley and ultimately caught the eye of iconic French winemaker Domonique Lafon, who made wine from the site for many years. The site was then under the stewardship of famed sommelier Raj Parr. Now, with a mix of old plantings and promising younger ones, the outstanding site is mostly funneling into the estate label otherwise known as Evening Land Vineyards. Fact is, if you see Seven Springs Vineyard on the label, you know you’re getting the goods.
Antica Terra
The brainchild of Maggie Harrison, Antica Terra is a highly-regarded label with a cult-like following. You’d be hard-pressed to find a vintner more passionate about her work, and that vested interest is reflected in the extremely expressive wines. The best way to experience the wines is by visiting the incredible property to get the full rundown on all the energy and love that goes into these special Chardonnays.
Walter Scott
Walter Scott should be given tons of credit for turning the wine map towards Oregon Chardonnay. For years, the label has been singing the varietal’s praises, working its way onto top restaurant wine lists and placement at top-shelf bottle shops. One of the coolest things the winery has done is spotlight how incredible single-vineyard Chardonnay can be. They source from some top sites throughout the valley, such as Freedom Hill Vineyard, Witness Tree Vineyard, and more.
Cristom Vineyards
Another OG producer, Cristom, first planted Chardonnay on its land in 1993. Like Walter Scott, they’ve focused on highly unique single-vineyard options. They make about a half-dozen Chardonnays in all, including one from Seven Springs Vineyard. The place is all about mindful farming, combining biodynamic and organic approaches for a truly sustainable approach.
The rise has happened somewhat quietly, as Oregon is a relatively small wine producer, and Chardonnay still takes the back seat in terms of fanfare to Pinot Noir. However, the number of options continues to grow, and the quality has never been higher. It’s the kind of wine you can get some discovery points for, as it’s likely you or your wine-drinking friends have all experienced it.
When you do crack a bottle, enjoy some on its own to really get a sense of the aromas, flint-like minerality, juicy acidity, and phenomenal texture. If you’re looking for pairing suggestions, shellfish is always a good option. Do it Oregon style and pair the Chardonnay with fresh Dungeness crab or oysters. Try it with mac and cheese or fried chicken. Enjoy it with creamy or salty cheese like brie or pecorino, or go with something earthy like mushroom risotto.
