Every April, Geneva basically becomes the horological equivalent of the Met Gala. Everyone who’s anyone will be there; whoever doesn’t show up is conspicuous in their absence, and there is always at least one surprise guest who gets whispered about to such a loud level that it might as well not even be whispers anymore.
I’m super excited for Watches and Wonders this year (of course, I’m excited every year), but in 2026 it’s for a very good reason. W&W is delivering not one, not two, but eleven new additions to its formidable roster, bringing the grand total of exhibiting brands to a whopping 66. Some of the newcomers are roll-your-eyes expected, while others are delightfully unexpected, and some of them are so overdue it borders on embarrassing (looking at you, Audemars Piguet).
Here are the five I’ll be watching most closely when the doors open on April 14th.
Audemars Piguet: The Prodigal Son Returns
We might as well get the most obvious one out of the way first, shall we? Audemars Piguet, which has been absent from all major trade shows since 2019, comes back this year, and like a kid on Christmas morning, I’m counting down the sleeps just to see what they come up with.
Audemars Piguet’s absence is more of a statement than a gap, as they’ve spent years doing their own thing, and on their own terms, thank you very much. And, let’s just say, the mysterious vibe has totally worked, and I’m itching to see more. Not only are they back, but they’ve picked the best possible moment to walk through the door.
This year marks AP’s 150th anniversary. One hundred and fifty years of Le Brassus, of the Royal Oak, of Gerald Genta’s provocative vision of what a luxury sports watch could actually be. If you’re going to make a grand reentrance like a Bridgerton into high society, then doing it on your sesquicentennial is a power move of the highest order.
The real question is: what does a 150-year-old brand with something to prove actually bring to the table? I’m hoping it’s something that will make my jaw drop.
Sinn Spezialuhren: The Wildcard Nobody Asked For (But Everyone Needed)
Imagine the Watches and Wonders crowd for a moment. Brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and Jaeger-LeCoultre are houses that have been making watches longer than most countries have existed.
And then there’s Sinn, the forgotten little brother. A Frankfurt-based manufacturer best known for watches that pilots, divers, and people with highly demanding jobs actually wear to work, as in, not just a brand for show.
Sinn has absolutely no business being at Watches and Wonders in the first place, and that is exactly why I love it so much. The devoted fans of this brand value function above all else, and none of the performative theatrics of “artisanal craftsmanship.”
Sinn, in essence, just makes incredibly good, capable watches and doesn’t really care what you think of them. Watching them set up shop next to the grande maisons is going to be hilarious; basically like showing up for a black-tie dinner in a super clean flight suit. Wrong room, perfect attitude.
Corum: The Comeback Kid with a Point to Prove
To put it politically correctly, Corum has had a “complicated” few decades. This brand, with genuinely brilliant heritage (the Bubble, the Admiral’s Cup, the Golden Bridge, to name a few) has somehow drifted into an identity fog, producing watches that didn’t really know what they wanted to be. Essentially, they’re in the middle of a midlife crisis, except it’s lasted about twenty years.
Corum is now under new management, and the decision to debut at Watches and Wonders this year feels less like a tradeshow appearance and more like the beginnings of a manifesto. They really want you to know something has changed; we just don’t know what that change will be, which is why I’m genuinely curious.
Favre Leuba: The Name You Should Already Know
Favre Leuba has the honor of being one of the oldest watch brands in existence; it was founded in 1737! As in, older than the United States. Yet, despite being one of the oldest, it’s also one of the least heard of in the horological community.
Mention the name to any casual watch enthusiast, and you’ll likely get a blank stare back. Personally, I think it’s a crime against watch humanity, and Watches and Wonders 2026 will allow them to start correcting this.
This brand, unfortunately, has been operating as if it’s someone’s secret mistress for far too long, and a platform like Watches and Wonders is just what it needs to really be brought into the well-deserved limelight.
H. Moser & Cie: Bigger Room, Bigger Energy
Okay, I hear you, technically, Moser isn’t new to the event. But, CEO Edouard Meylan announced that the brand will be moving from the more indie-focused Carré des Horlogers into the main Palexpo hall. Personally, I think that deserves some recognition, which is why I added it to my list.
In just twelve years, Moser has seen their production grow tenfold. They’ve gone from a beloved curiosity to a brand that can hold its own with the big boys — literally and figuratively. We’re watching their graduation in real time, and I’m so here for it. Moser has always had the watches, and now they have the space to match.
What I Love Most
You know what I love most about this lineup? It reminds me that the watch world is much bigger than just ten names that always dominate the conversation. Yes, Audemars Piguet’s return is a big headline. But, Sinn in the main hall, Favre Leuba finally getting a spotlight, Corum having something to prove; let’s just say, it’s a few days’ worth clearing your calendar for.
So, welcome to the party, new kids. No pressure, but we’ll be watching (pun intended).
