The Manual Wind: Baume et Mercier Classima Moonphase

By Ian Schwam September 30, 2015

the manual wind baume et mercier classima moonphase bm2

bmoon2

Baume et Mercier is a brand with longevity. It is their classic dress pieces that have kept them around for so long. Thin, elegant, and affordable is Baume et Mercier. Over the years, they have introduced new pieces into their production lines to rejuvenate sales. Their latest introduction might be my favorite from them in some time. The Baume et Mercier Classima Moonphase well maintains the brand persona.

At 40mm in diameter, this stainless steel case houses a swiss quartz movement operating time, date and moonphase. What is on the dial is what sets this piece apart from other Baume et Merciers’, the large moon phase. Placed dead center there is no missing it. A classic element on a grand scale. Typically a moon phase complication might be on the pricier side but a quartz piece is very reasonable. A crocodile strap with folding buckle rounds the piece out nicely.

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This is the epitome of a value dress watch. Classic size and complication, nice strap, nice brand. Priced at a mere $1,850 msrp, this piece that might be the graduation gift of 2015. The caseback is a blank canvas for engraving. Baume et Mercier knows its strengths and has proven them once again. This big moon phase will be visible more often than the recent red super moon of this past week.

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Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: NOMOS Glashutte Lambda 39mm

the manual wind nomos glashutte lambda 39mm

Some of the toughest critics are watch enthusiasts. From price point to fit and finish, you might say there is never pleasing a watch collector. With that said, It takes hard work and unique design to be a successful up-and-comer in the watch world. One brand that is slowly winning over these hard critics is NOMOS Glashutte. Clean design and in house movements got this boutique German ball rolling and its certainly gaining speed. Its latest, the 39mm NOMOS Lambda, is another clean look that is hard to hate.

A little smaller than the original, this 39mm version takes the clean Lambda look and brings it in 3mm from its original 42mm diameter. Inside lies the same in-house manual wind movement as its big brother. Made in three variations, all rose gold, there is great contrast along with the simplicity of the dial design. The three variations include a while dial with gold hands for a more classic look, white dial with blue-steel hands for a more modern look, and a “black velvet” dial with gold hands which i find the most striking. The layout of the dial is what truly sets this watch apart. With the focus on the power reserve, this makes for great symmetry with a different aesthetic then normally seen in such a piece. Unlike the dramatic figure “8” design of Jacquet Droz, this upside down “8” is more subtle yet still maintains the same amount of classic design.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Ralph Lauren Safari Chronometer Camouflage

the manual wind ralph lauren safari chronometer camouflage safcamu6

When a fashion house decides to become watchmakers, they truly have carte blanche. With no obligation to uphold years of brand design standards, and the ability to design with current fashion, brands like Ralph Lauren can create any watch creation they please. Perfect example of this is the their latest casual timepiece, The Ralph Lauren Safari Chronometer Camouflage. This name truly embodies the design.

As vintage safari as a new watch can get, this piece takes on the Ralph Lauren lifestyle well. Black shot-blasted stainless steel encases a swiss automatic movement and camouflage dial. Large and credible, the numbers on the camo dial are in khaki for a nice contrast while keeping the theme. Rugged, this piece is capped off with a matching olive green alligator strap. Not the sportiest of materials, but this watch is clearly about fashion and not function. A single orange second hand brakes the scheme making for an appropriate accent. This watch is meant to be large and it is at nearly 45mm in diameter. Luckily, Ralph Lauren does not leave out any consumer and also has a 39mm version for the ladies.

Fashion & Style

The Manual Wind: Oris 1956 Diver

Oris Automatic

The throwback timepiece reemerges once again. If there is an iconic design somewhere in a brands history, rest assure, if it has not already risen from the depths, it is sure to in the coming years. I have no qualms with this considering I'm all for modern technology with vintage style. Oris is the brand this time taking a vintage diver from its past and bringing it back to life. First appearing in their collection fifty years ago, the historic icon is transformed into a 2015 version; The Oris 1965 Diver.

With a stance of a conservatively sized 40mm, the Oris 1965’s steel case is outfit with an aluminum rotating divers bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Superlumiova “Light Old Radium” markers and hands give this piece its vintage look with an aged patina appearance. Exposure to sunlight and water will naturally fade and patina hands and markers in watches from the 60s, 70s, and 80s. With this new popular shade of Superluminova, brands can now replicate this desired coloration while still offering legibility at night.